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Adidaswood last won the day on March 15

Adidaswood had the most liked content!

About Adidaswood

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    Control4 Guru

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    Denver, Colorado
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    Biking, Home Automation. Lacrosse

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  1. i guess it works ok. I find it to be very slow to load on my phone in the ring app. I don't love it personally. This is outside of control4 integration but a big use case for me rarely works. When my 14 year old daughter is home and my wife and I are out for date night we will sometimes order her dinner to the house. When I see the notification come through I like to watch to make sure she is OK. but when i click on the notification the app will fire up and switch to the camera view, but the video never loads. if i wait a minute and go to the saved videos I can view it no problem, but by then it is usually too late. Its disappointing. When I look at my wifi stats, it is connected to the closest wap about 30 ft away and has a really strong signal. I'm honestly thinking of changing to another solution.
  2. Boy do I feel you on this. I've been through two new builds also and a basement finish project. It sucks when you feel like you have to watch them and tell them not to do dumb stuff. I could tell you some stories. The other issue is they will treat you like you don't know what you are talking about as an excuse to do a piss poor job. ok rant over. I've also been through 4 or 5 dealers in my area and it is not fun. Keep looking and changing dealers until you land on a good one. Also there are some good remote dealers that are very helpful, if you can manage the wiring and install from your end. @AK1 is who I use. as to the topic, my ATV has taken to randomly playing music and the screen saver has stopped working, so I'll be talking with my dealer about the drivers. Hopefully we can resolve it, because it is annoying. I like to fall asleep on the couch watching movies and lately i've been waking up in the middle of the night and there is the TV stuck on one screen. Frustrating.
  3. let me see.... I'd probably make a boolean variable SNOWING and set it to False. maybe something more generic like DS2 MOTION might work better if you want to use it in other situations Then make a custom button or use a keypad button and it would set the variable to true or false when you push it. You could even have the LED change color based on its state to remind you. When Control4 DS2 Door Station Events -> Motion detected IF SNOWING = True Do Nothing (you could use STOP, I think) ELSE Send Snapshot Email Send Push you could also move or copy the email one to the top if you thought you still needed that. Hopefully this helps.
  4. what happens when the motion triggers? it sends a push notification? Perhaps you could have some code and a custom button that disables action while snowing? so you aren't actually disabling the motion sensing you are just disabling what you've told it to do when it does sense motion? I hope that makes sense.
  5. I don't think anyone is saying that it doesn't have potential or that some of these features are not cool. I think most people think it is inconsistent. Mine has worked a little bit here and there but a lot of the time it doesn't. Won't load or crashes when you try to do something. I think if it worked consistently and Control4 spent time working out the bugs, I don't think you would be getting the same feedback from the group. Plus apple changes stuff and trying to keep up with that has to be a chore for Control4.
  6. If you already have c4 lighting in those areas, disregard. I just put regular old occupancy switches in my pantry, walkin closets, laundry and powder rooms. you walk in and the lights go on and turn off after a couple minutes. I felt like it was overkill to put c4 switches in those rooms. just my .02.
  7. This isn't super scientific but you can download a SPL meter on your phone and get some rough guesses at the db levels in the room. Especially with the volume all the way up, and that may give you some idea of what those speakers are producing in the room. I mean if you tell me 120 DB and you don't have clipping then it might just be that you were having quite the party. if we are talking 60 or 70(probably won't be, that would be some bad speakers) db then you have some work to do. it is probably a setting that is limiting it. Since you didn't have clipping or anything like that this part is just academic, but interesting if you ever wondered what some of the numbers mean. to know for sure where those numbers could be you might want to email their tech support and ask them for their sensitivity spec. It might also help you and your dealer to dialin the right speakers for the room. https://www.lifewire.com/speaker-sensitivity-3134850. I don't know if this article is exactly technically correct, it is likely dumbed down a bit, but it gives you an idea of what I'm talking about. How is it under normal conditions non party conditions, do you have trouble hearing it. Can you make it too loud without a bunch of extra noise? Cy is probably right, but getting some numbers might help you feel better.
  8. We have a similar setup, Big family room open to kitchen. I had the surround wired, just in case. it only took me about two months to go ahead and put the surround speakers in. I feel like it would have helped you, it certainly helped us. Is there a way to get a sub in there? Also Distortion can also have a lot to do with the speakers. What is their efficiency rating? if you have really inefficient speakers it will take more power to run them high volumes. I don't know much about your speakers. Did you get any clipping or anything like that when you turned it up? or did it really just max out? Do you have any settings the limit max volume?
  9. Oh this also means I have less Control4 Controllers. I only have one local controller in the entire house. So with everything remote I also don't have the expense of buying a bunch of controllers.
  10. I personally have the Binary 8x8 HDBaseT and it has been rock solid. Only issue I have ever run into is that we misplaced on of the receiver baluns and it would get hot and the video would blink off and on every 10 minutes or so. Took forever to figure it out, but once we did, I haven't seen any other issues. I barely use the DVD player either, but insert component of your choice and the argument applies. Apple TV, roku,..etc...etc... I also don't find the TV apps super usable when it comes to passing the audio around to remote equipment. Can it be done yes, but more of a pain than anything else. However if you don't mind buying all of that 12 or 14 times, that works too. I personally wouldn't want to try and keep up with the rate of change on some of this stuff. As I said I only have 1 or 2 of anything, vs 8-12. Sounds like you have a way to hide the stuff, so i dont' think anyone will knock you for going that route either. Just wouldn't buy the cheap stuff if you decide on Video Distribution.
  11. Video distribution is the best thing we ever did at our house. instead of 8 cable boxes and 8 dvd players etc....we only have 1 or 2 of anything. Also I don't have a mess of wires and components at each TV. High Wife approval Factor there. While monoprice serves a purpose and i have use a few small things from them, I wouldn't rely on it for a major component like Video distribution. You might also look at SnapAV with your dealer but I think the consensus there is that it is good, but not quite there yet, compared to JAP. I would also vote that you shouldn't daisy chain matrices. Good Luck.
  12. My speakers are in an open ceiling, which is the floor of my daughters room. It isn't the most ideal surround setup, it was the builders setup for that room. I think they put in speaker craft. I'll have to look, I wonder if they have a solution. anyway. if i've been watching the 5.1 room and I switch to the TV room (same living room). then I end up with volume control on the TV but the surround is still on because that room doesn't shut off automatically and everything passes through the AVR on or off. unless I do room off and then new room and then watch. That isn't usually the way it goes. Its definitely not graceful either way. I have this cludgy thing where you see the volume going down for 5 seconds. Now you have me thinking...which isn't safe for anyone. maybe there is a better way to do this... see now I'm gonna break something this weekend and the wife and daughter are gonna run me out of dodge if it doesn't work by the time the next episode of the bachelor is on. How should the setup be?
  13. I can't have the surround sound on at night in the family room, so I sometimes just want tv speakers. So, I have this exact setup, two rooms. Even still there are some issues switching between rooms. They are minor but I had to do some programming for which I switch rooms or power on/off. I really wish there was a more elegant solution from c4, like the dual display driver.
  14. Yep agree. I rarely us the built in streaming services on my AVR. On occasion I might need a different (second or third) stream from the rest of the house, but again that is rare for us
  15. Use the AVR for your surrond zone(s). I'd go with a matrix amp every time for 2 channel scenarios. Except. where it is a critical listen area, like a turn table or something. As for IP control of the matrix amp, not much to control there other than which zones you want active. Pretty much on, off and volume. I never really had the need to go beyond that. With the AVR what are you looking for? My Integra has full menu support via IP, and C4 can automatically select different sound profiles if I program them. IT sets default volume levels and selects inputs based on the activity I choose. I'd say it is pretty seamless. Unless you have some odd edge use case, you'll probably be able to do most things you want with the AVR via Control4. Do you have a specific need?
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