kurtiswilk

I'd take some switches depending in the models, sending you a pm

@Remie did getting your remotes removed and rejoined help with your issue? What you describe is more or less what I'm facing right now.

Hey all, Not sure if this useful to anyone, but figured I'd toss it out there. I was playing with motion sensor placement and somehow my husky got a hold of it, and chewed the ball mount to bits. I've drawn and 3D printed a new one. Probably going to look at making a few variants. It will be posted on thingiverse soon and I'll update the link here. Also likely to be doing the back plate since it's got some teeth marks in it aswell. If anyone's interested before it gets posted let me know.

I got to learn from a great tech doing club installs. One of the first rack cleanups we ever did was aweful. Ever cable had been cut perfectly to length and was all direct wire. We ended up putting 4 new patch panels at the top of the racks since there was no length to move gear around or change connectors and still have things fit. Later we went to an install he had done from scratch. Same thing. Move some gear and it wasn't looking good. Very similar to the first, that is until he pulled a couple of neatly rolled and labeled bundles from the ceiling. Made moving things very easy. Long story short, if it's a direct line (no patchbay) leave a good working loop, I generally leave 6' to10' depending on location. I know techs that say this is excessive and I know others that say it's not enough. Things that go from patch bay to device. Make to length when possible, use velcro in the racks and bundles according to type. Network, audio, video excetra. If you have access to a 3d printer there are some great cable accessories cheap to print and very useful. Cable bars are also very handy. Pictures would definitely help. Kurtis

Copy that. I do recalibrate the lock when changing the batteries. It's a good tio I bet most people miss. Will try changing them again. No cheap Kirklands here, just cheap Amazon's I'll look at picking up a good set in the next few days.

Thanks for the advice. They are a pricey little piece at 70 a pop per device. Anyone had anyluck with something lower tech like using a usb port to trigger a contact? In a controller?

Hey question about a kwikset 909. I have a lock roughly 9 to 10 years old. It will randomly stop responding locking and unlocking with codes, timers or the lock button. My guess is likely just age. If the barriers asked out for a few hours seems to work. It's got the red C4 chip. Is it possible to buy a new 909 and change out the chips? Will my dealer need to reprogram,or will it reconnect? Or should I just be looking for a new lock?

Curious about what people are using to sense if gaming consoles are turned on or not? Xbox one, PS4, Nintendo switch. Or really any other device .

Have you tried going from the engineering solutions DMX controller straight to the problem decoder?