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dutsnekcirf

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About dutsnekcirf

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    Control4 End User

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  1. Ultimately what I ended up doing is getting it setup like any other receiver. So volume up/down and mute work just fine. If the source on the soundbar doesn't get changed then everything will come up just fine; otherwise, it'll just power on with the input that it was on when it was last powered off. I then added programming to the remote to use the red button to toggle between inputs. So worst case scenario they'll just have to press the red button on the remote a couple times to get the audio back.
  2. Honestly I haven't looked into the specifics on HDCP with the Raspberry Pi. I connect one of my rpi's through an HDMI switch (Tendak 4K HDMI Switch with PIP 4x1 HDMI Switcher) and have never had a problem with it. I also connect a second one through a home receiver (Pioneer Elite vsx-45) in another zone. With this one I do occasionally experience a hiccup that could be a symptom of HDCP weirdness. When this hiccup occurs; which isn't often, I'll hear audio but see no video. The quick and dirty fix for me is to simply change sources to something else for a moment and then go back to Kodi. Once I do that, it seems to complete the handshake properly to get video back.
  3. Agreed. At least that's been my experience with 3rd party addons. It is important to keep in mind that the 3rd party addons are maintained by someone who is not affiliated with Kodi and can be very unreliable. If you stick with the Kodi official addons then they're pretty stable.
  4. So from what I understand the Shield has good support for Kodi. If that's true then I would suggest loading Kodi and then install the PlexKodiConnect addon. There are plenty of Kodi drivers for C4 to control it. The PlexKodiConnect addon gives you the best of both worlds. Plex is amazing at maintaining the database and maintaining/updating media metadata. It's a perfect backend server for media. Kodi has a better frontend and user interface. I personally prefer the Kodi interface over Plex. If you have multiple Kodi boxes and they're all using the PlexKodiConnect addon to pull from the same Plex server then all of your media remains synced. It's become a very nice media ecosystem for me.
  5. I'll second the suggestion for rpi's running osmc. I used to run libreelec and/or openelec on some amlogic boxes as well. I was specifically using the G-box's made by Matricom (G-Box 1, G-Box 2, and the MX3). But it got hard finding specific libreelec and openelec builds for those boxes and they didn't update the builds to the latest version of Kodi very quickly. I went several months on an outdated version of Kodi that didn't include SSL support. Not only did I have those issues but it required re-flashing the boxes to remove the preloaded software from Matricom to begin with. Re-flashing almost never went perfect on the first attempt. I was constantly having to go through their support forums to catch up on the latest changes. It seemed the process never seemed to remain consistent and god help you if you accidentally attempted to flash it with the wrong file meant for a different variant of the amlogic processor. So I switched to Raspberry Pi 3 B+ with OSMC. It's nice when something just works. It required no tweaking and it just plain works. Additionally, the overall cost for the RPI (board, case, power supply, micro-sd card) came out to about $20 less than what I had paid for the G-Box's anyway. I've been super happy with the rpi's. And what's also cool is that if I ever feel like playing around with one then I can just pull the micro-sd card out, set it aside, and install another one with a whole different software load on it. Once I'm finished I'll just put the original micro-sd card back in and I've got my Kodi box back. Also, why on earth are you still calling it XBMC? That's sooo 2014. EDIT: I should also add that I've had no problems running Kodi plugins. On the other hand, I have not been watching 4K anything yet so I can't comment on how well they'd perform with that content.
  6. I tried sending a private message back on January 20th to "admin", andy.cytexone, cytexone, and danlevine, but according to the banner at the top they haven't read it. I'm trying to inform them of an issue regarding security on this website. I feel that I should give them a heads up first rather than post it publicly in the forums. Is there someone else I should send it to besides those I listed? EDIT: Nevermind. Searching a little bit more I've found that this issue is already known.
  7. I wouldn't be surprised if this been discussed before but has anyone had any luck integrating a Samsung Soundbar? I made an impulse purchase during black Friday and bought one without thinking about how it could be integrated. It's got a remote like this one here. As you can see it's got an input toggle that'll cycle through 3 or 4 different inputs. The TV is on HDMI 1 and then we have an echo dot that'll connect to it over bluetooth as long as the soundbar gets set to the BT input; which my wife changes frequently. I think it'd be fine if the input never changed. But if someone ever changes the input then there's no easy way to get back to HDMI 1. I know that generally if there is an easy way to consistently get back to a known state then you can use macros to find the input you want. But I don't see any sort of option here. I'm kind of just complaining here and hoping that someone knows if there's discrete input codes for these things.
  8. Honestly no. My system is running just fine. This was really just a thought experiment that crossed my mind that I couldn't help entertaining. This is why I posted in the "push the envelope" forum; knowing that this would be out of the ordinary. I like the idea of having the ability to add processing power to a "Master Controller Virtual Machine" as needed. Control4 comes out with new controllers every so often and they're more powerful each time but they remain expensive too. This would allow me to continue to upgrade the software without paying as much for the hardware. This would also allow my current physical controllers to lag behind a bit in the upgrade cycle. Obviously this wouldn't be in the best interest of Control4 in terms of their bottom line.
  9. That was my first thought. I figure that'd be easier than somehow attempting to reverse engineer the software and create a custom Linux build that performs the same task. But you're right, after doing so, I wouldn't be able to use the original controller from which I derived the image. Spoofing MAC addresses has never really worked all that well for me anyway. I figure if I did indeed accomplish this by emulating the existing controller then this wouldn't be a problem. yeah, probably not worth it if the amount of effort involved in creating it is too high. On the other hand, why bother creating anything at all if you're concerned about it becoming obsolete in the future. That is indeed a very valid point. My system is not an overly complicated system and I'm not dealing with responsiveness issues at the moment. My current master controller is indeed an HC-250 and it's working just fine for now. I guess maybe I'm just always looking for ways to improve things. And the more likely motivation is that I'm too cheap to upgrade to an EA-3 at this point in time. Yeah, it had crossed my mind to simply use one of the other controllers as the ZigBee controller. That would eliminate the need for a fancy C4 ZigBee card. I don't see how that'd be an issue. But that probably just means I'm missing some nuance that I'm not aware of. What would make this all easier is if Control4 created the VMs themselves as Virtual Appliances that could simply be imported into ESXi and then sold a license in order to enable/register them. They could maintain the upgrade path and provide software updates as needed. The licenses could make up the difference in profit margin that they receive from selling physical hardware.
  10. I was thinking that it might be cool if my master controller could be running in a virtual machine in my VMware ESXi server. This way I could allocate as much processing resources (RAM and CPU) I want to the master controller and allow all of my hardware controllers to simply function as slave controllers. I have no idea how I would do this (VMware vCenter Converter possibly?) and I have no idea what hardware resources are needed for a master controller. I'm thinking at most it'd need to have access to some sort of Control4 compatible ZigBee controller. I'm thinking it would improve the speed and responsiveness of my system by offloading whatever processing is performed by the master controller to a more powerful machine. I could also make use of VMware's Snapshot feature in addition to creating project backups. Thoughts? Anyone?
  11. Strangely, I'm not seeing an option to turn off the appropriate outlet. I have the Wireless Outlet Switch v2 driver for a LDZ-5S1-W. Does this device not support that capability? It is pretty old. EDIT: I think I'm remembering that I have to bind a generic relay to the Wireless Outlet Switch in order to be able to do this. Does that sound right?
  12. They are indeed controlled by IR and I just happen to have a wireless outlet switch connected to the TV but only being used for power sensing to help ensure the TV actually gets powered on and off reliably. How would the programming look if I used those? I feel like I'm programming off the wrong event; "video selection changed". It just so happens I have a spare wemo outlet that I've never used. I might give that a try on one of the other TVs in the house. What about the POWER_STATE room variable? What does that do? What if I just set that variable to off when the scheduler triggers. Would that prevent anything from turning on?
  13. Here comes another example of lazy parenting....I want to prevent my children from being able to turn on the TV in the mornings before school. Due to circumstances, us parents can't be home in the morning to get our kids ready for school. They aren't especially young either and typically get themselves ready and to school. But we have had occasions where they've gotten distracted by the TV and lost track of time. So...this is how I've done it and I think I'm doing it wrong. I created two schedule objects ("TV Access on" and "TV access off"). "TV Access on" triggers every weekday at 9:00 AM. "TV Access off" triggers every weekday at 4:00 AM. I then created a boolean variable called "TV Access". When "TV Access on" triggers it sets the "TV Access" variable to "TRUE". When "TV Access off" triggers it sets the "TV Access" variable to "FALSE". Then for each of my rooms on the "video selection changed" event, if the "TV Access" variable is "FALSE", then I turn off the room. This works sorta. It ends up allowing the TV to turn on but then the remote just goes into the room off state. As soon as they press "Watch...something" then the TV turns off. I'm thinking there's got to be a better way to simply prevent the TV from turning on at all. How would you guys do this?
  14. That's a very good point, Pounce. Truth be told, I didn't have much confidence in my ability to fix this thing in the first place, so I've already paid the $100 and replaced this controller with a new one. My home automation system is back up an running. At this point I'm just being stubborn and wanting to satisfy my curiosity. Additionally, if I could fix this controller then I could upgrade one of the HC-300s in my system with this one. To answer your other questions, as far as I can see I didn't let the smoke out but that doesn't mean something isn't indeed fried. The event that lead to the death was a power outage. It was working fine and then at some point in the middle of the night we had a power outage and in the morning it was dead. So yeah, there's a very good chance there's something fried. Anyway, I doubt I'll make any progress with this but if I do I'll post back. I appreciate all the comments and help.
  15. Dead sorta. I finally received my USB to TTL serial cable and was able to see it boot up. It actually powers on and gets stuck in the U-Boot bootloader. I'm not familiar with the U-Boot bootloader but if it's anything like any other bootloader it just needs to find a bootable OS image to load. Simply looking around in the bootloader's CLI it looks like there's a lot you can do in there. What this tells me though is that the hardware is potentially fine and that the Linux Kernel and OS image is missing from whatever boot device it's supposed to be on. That's something I'm still not sure about; where the OS is supposed to reside. Whether it's supposed to boot from the Micro-SD card, NAND flash, or JFFS. I get the feeling that the Micro-SD is only mounted as a persistent writeable storage location within the Linux filesystem and that it does not actually boot from the Micro-SD. In fact, I'm pretty sure that's the case since I took a closer look at the partitions on the Micro-SD and neither partition has the boot flag set on them. Anyway, I say "dead sorta" because I think this could easily be recovered by an engineer at Control4 with the OS image that needs to be loaded onto whatever memory device it's supposed to boot from. I doubt I would be able to get a copy from Control4 to load it on myself and that this is a task strictly for their engineering/technical support to do.
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