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About Bud

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    Control4 End User

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  1. cool minions. Thanks again for the Halloween driver. Had 7 loads and a toggle scene running on scary light 10 creepiness... great fun.
  2. Figures now that I have posted in this thread I found my first dead unit out of my recessed LEDs. If I remember correctly I have 104 of the Ecosmart version of the Cree CR6. I also have 14 of the more expensive Cree LR6. The Ecosmarts are the original version that was rated at 10.5 watts. I liked them so much that I just installed another 25 or so of the newer 9.5 watt Ecosmsarts in a second place. Anyway I noticed last night that I had a dead one of the originals in my bedroom. I pulled it out and tried in another location to make sure it was not the recessed fixture. FYI - I removed the gray cover off of the back and inside the driver board is stamped Cree and so are the stickers on the back of the unit for that matter. I really doubt that the recessed units are any different for for the Cree or Ecosmart brand. Even with the dead unit I am still happy with the Ecosmart recessed LEDs. I suppose that less than a 1% failure rate at 18 mos is not so bad. Of course if more go down that opinion could change quickly. For now they are about $30 here and I will probably just replace it rather than try for some warranty claim from HD. Will be interesting to see if I can tell any difference between the 10.5 and 9.5 watt versions side by side. I also agree on the dimming. One of my kids sleeps with these set on 4%.
  3. Thanks Seth. I wish I had the tools and skills to edit the source code. Nice setup for the party. Pretty impressive installing a temporary chandelier. I have been using the driver just as a randomly timed trigger and it has been really fun. Rather than setting the level to equal the SCARY LIGHT variable I have used the device variable LIGHT LEVEL for the dimmer. It has an option to set to a random level with a min and max. Works great without having to actually adjust anything for the dimmer. I have managed to use the IS HALLOWEEN variable by just putting an if statement on top of the programming to preform the actions only if IS HALLOWEEN is true. I am a little concerned that it looks like the driver is running the random generator 24/7 though. I wonder if it should be deleted after Haloween. (running an HC800 but seems like it would just constantly be running.)
  4. So I have a chandelier that my wife just changed in my breakfast nook. Went from 6 bulbs to 2 bulbs. Max allowable per socket is 65w. Even with 2 100w bulbs, its pretty dim. How do I make it brighter (WITHOUT CHANGING THE CHANDELIER) if LEDs max is 60w equivalents. Bigger than that become flood lights. Thanks. I would love an answer for this also. I have incandescents in all my chandeliers and exposed sconces. I have not found a suitable LED replacement for candelabra bulbs. They are either too ugly or dim, usually both.
  5. It will work with switches also, just toggle the load rather than using set level. I think I will also set an if statement to run a lighting scene toggle to turn off all of the lights at a random time also. They would flicker for a while then all go off randomly, then start again.
  6. I agree with rylee44. House full of non-ELV dimmmers and LED bulbs, most also HD Ecosmart recessed LEDs for year and a half no problems yet. Also have a number of single LEDs on a dimmer and some other types, BR20s, and some dimmable GU10s from Amazon all running on non-ELV dimmers. I have one pair of the GU10s on a dimmer over a sink but I can't remember if they are 3W or 6W each. I never could find any dimmable CFLs I was happy with, at least from the local big box stores. The performance dimming, start-up, light quality was so poor in comparison.
  7. Seth, Thanks again for writing this driver. I never did get around to using it last Halloween. I have been trying to set it up and feel a little stupid that even after watching your video a few times I still cannot get it to turn off by setting the IS HALLOWEEN to false. Also I have only gotten the scary light and crazy to work. I was looking for a setting about like you describe medium but haven't gotten it to go. I really like the effect so far and my workaround for adjusting the time has been to use when the scary light changes for a trigger then have a conditional based on the scary light value: IF the SCARY LIGHT is less than or equal to 15 Set (LOAD) -> LIGHT LEVEL = Random Number Between 0 and 30 By adjusting the less than number (15 in my example above) I can adjust the frequency of the effect very nicely. Also the option to set the load LIGHT LEVEL to a random number with a min and max seems to work very well. I am thinking that I could just have a small range for any number of different lights controlled by the same scary light generator i.e. if the scary light is between 5 and 12 change one load, if it is between 15 and 40 change another... etc Maybe allowing some overlap? Anyone else have any other suggestions?
  8. Could you not have a variable for something open i.e. Alarm Sensor Open Start with: Variables-> Alarm Sensor Open = False Then continue: If KITCHEN WINDOW IS OPEN Execute announcement KITCHEN WINDOW IS OPEN Variables-> Alarm Sensor Open = True If LIVING ROOM WINDOW IS OPEN Execute announcements LIVING ROOM WINDOW IS OPEN Variables-> Alarm Sensor Open = True etc... then: IF Variables-> Alarm Sensor Open is False Execute Announcement ALL DOORS ARE CLOSED Wouldn't it then list all the open items or ALL DOORS ARE CLOSED?
  9. OK thanks. Its still on. I'll have the dealer check on it.
  10. Just last night I had a C4 switch do the same thing. It is stuck on. The load is a single fluorescent 4 foot 4 bulb T8 fixture. The LEDs cycle and I can hear the relay inside "click" when controlling it via navigator. The load (light) just stays on and was on all night. This was purchased from my dealer and installed sometime in early 2012 before or just after moving into a new construction house (C4 gear was not installed during rough-in). Either I or the electrician installed it I can't recall on this switch but I think it is immaterial. It is in a 2 gang box with another functioning C4 switch. I will contact my dealer to see about RMA. What is the warranty on C4 gear? I may be able to jar it loose to remedy but I don't want to have to deal with it later especially if it is covered now and potentially would fall on me later.
  11. seems like a lot of expense and trouble to switch all that. just get a big natural gas generator and put the whole thing on it with a SER switch and forget it. mine switches over in less than 10 seconds (really about 6) and runs everything. house, pool, A/Cs, ovens. everything. just have C4 and network gear on UPS. (Cummins 45kw with Asco 185 SE 400A switch)
  12. Thanks. I like the programming ideas. I have the timer triggered to start on the door closing and stop if the door is opened so it will restart if it is reopened and closed. Also two timers one for day one for night with different delays using if day or night to pick which starts. I have also found it useful to have an if statement to check the door sensor from the Alarm to see if it is closed when it is time to lock the door. This keeps the lock from activating/closing the deadbolt when the door is ajar (drives me crazy for some reason.) For the levers it doesn't matter. When the timer expires: If the MR door is closed Lock the MR door
  13. Saw this thread. Great help controlling LEDs in bedroom at night. Wife happier. Thank you Ryan.
  14. Bud

    iPad Mini

    Even if someone had an ipad mini mounted on the wall of every room, I doubt it would really work that way. Could you broadcast to all of the units? In order to select a specific room each would have to have its own address/account. I agree I don't need C4 to video chat with portable devices, phones or tablets. There are multiple ways including facetime. I do think it would be valuable to be able to remote into the fixed video intercom system that I have already installed.
  15. I don't have one but have been meaning to purchase it.
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