TexasBill

If this is the Chowmain WEMO driver then YES! I am having this problem and it is driving me nuts. The app on my phone still knows the switch and can control it but the control is gone in Control 4. There is a "dance" that will bring the switch back under control - 1. go to set up 2. remove all or part of the serial number and click on SET 3. type the serial number back in and click SET again This USUALLY brings the switch back on line. I notice in the HELP/INFO for the driver that in October there was an update done - it was about then that this issue started for me as well. It talks about "duplication" of the item. And I have about 12-14 switches from Wemo as well in my application. It SEEMS to be random - the ip address is stll correct in Control 4 and all the information displayed seems to be correct - it just no longer can control the switch until I do the "dance". A little irritating

IBM - they purchased Weather Underground. At this point they take (I believe) the longitude and latitude of where you say that you are and pick the nearest PWS to those coordinates. Since I used google maps to get my coordinates I believe that my PWS (personal weather station) is closer than anyone elses so I tTHINK that it is using mine. It SEEMS to be in sync with mine and it SEEMS to use my data. You mileage may vary, to not take if allergic to this particular information, and it has caused cancer in some lab rats. Bill

Here is the documentation on how they get the information for your Control 4 display: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KGb8bTVYRsNgljnNH67AMhckY8AQT2FVwZ9urj8SWBs/edit

Here is the email that I got from Dr Victoria Gardner at IBM below - What my PWS is showing and what I am getting seem to be in sync so I am happy - Bill We’d like to reiterate a few things and let you know of a few small timing changes as we move closer to the previously announced retirement of the Weather Underground API: Based on the response to the previous announcement as we neared year end, we have extended the retirement date to February 15, 2019 to allow you more transition time. All Weather Underground API keys will stop working on February 15, 2019 unless otherwise agreed upon with Weather Underground. All credit card charges for existing Weather Underground API subscriptions will stop on December 26, 2018. Personal Weather Station (PWS) owners/contributors will continue to be eligible for a free replacement API service selected from our IBM/Weather Company standard offerings that contain: Current observations from the PWS network 5 day daily forecast PWS historical data PWS lookup by geocode, zip code and location Call volume: 1500/day, 30/minute You can check out our PWS contributor replacement API documentation here. If you need higher call volumes, you can still sign up for a paid API subscription plan from The Weather Company. Prices begin at $200/month. To have a representative contact you or to request a demo, please click to fill out the contact form. Finally, we are humbled by the loyalty you’ve shown us during this difficult transition period. Thank you for your continued support of the Weather Underground community. With gratitude, The WU API Transition Team Attachments area

No it's your pws My weather station sends the data to the Weather Underground. The driver reads MY data from MY weather station from MY weather underground station and gives it to me in MY house. https://www.wunderground.com/dashboard/pws/KTXBELTO8 So - I believe that in every sense of the words - it is MY weather hardware, my weather station and my data. Bill

Control 4 has a driver that integrates with Weather Underground available. Mine has been working now for about a year and is very reliable and works a treat. Bill

Geofencing is simply not a good option. I thought that my house could benefit from knowing when my wife and I are both away from the house and to let me know to arm the system? We can both be home and I will get the notice - Yes it works a lot - but - the failures are simply not good and this is your security. You should take note that Alexa and Google both will not let you unlock locks with a voice command. That is to prevent someone from outside yelling to unlock the door. Bill

Personally - I love the new http://level.co these locks work with all deadbolt locks that are NOT low profile. Works a treat - Downside - currently Bluetooth only and no interfaces to control4 or alexa or any other automation. Only your phone. Bill

Having this installed now for over a week - Here are my thoughts. In the app you can give guest privileges to anyone that you want and they can open the door. You can have it auto lock up to three minutes after you unlock it. When ever you unlock or lock the door (even manually) it can notify you on your phone. So -is it CRITICAL that I have integration - no. What would I Like in integration? 1. the ability to lock or unlock as a routine in my daily schedule 2. the ability to auto lock it but only when the door is closed. My sensor could make sure that two minutes after the door closed it auto locked. Currently the door can be open and you are saying good by to your guests and the door locks. This is really cool - I have the original door hardware and it works just fine. Bill

They have a listing of all the compatible locks on their support web site. I can tell you this - as long as the lock does not extend into the door hole very far it will work. It uses the original locks and hardware so it is VERY cool. The blue tooth works a treat - very responsive. It also can "auto-lock" in 30 seconds up to 3 minutes. BUT - I would like to integrate it into C4 if someone figures out how to do this. It integrates easily into the Apple Home stuff I am told but I don't have anything to run it so ... Thanks for any information you might find or have... Bill

https://level.co/ There is a new lock out that locks a deadbolt using your original hardware. No big and klunky knobs. It works really nicely Bluetooth from your phone and also (I am told) it works with Apple TV version4 and higher. Wondering if any of you have it installed yet as I do and want to connect it to your house. Would love to hear ideas.

Agree totally - I have a motion sensor in every room. This gives me total lighting and fan control. I do NOT have every motion sensor tied to the alarm system. The carbon monoxide sensors and glass breakage sensors are all tied to the alarm. We have not used the switches we put in more than 100 times in the 8 years we have lived in the house. Everything is automatic. Including closets. Bill

I have changed the battery twice in eight years - so a really long time

Are you just using the unlike device or did you supplement with the location sensors. I also have some leak sensors under the washing machine and by my waterfall to catch a leak even sooner. I have never had any issues with any of these products. (Except the batteries needing replacement in the leak detectors.

And Flo logic - This is the best of the best in my opinion - when they added the cloud to it, it just cannot be beat. I can monitor on my phone, get emails, announce in the house, turn it back on remotely. Everything you could want - change parameters remotely etc. Just the way it should be. Bill

I had a device that was interfering with the ZigBee and changed channels and that fixed it. I also had too many (more than 70) devices and had to have another device to support the other half of my devices as the number of hops was too many to be reliable.

Here is the new and improved workaround that works with Version 3.1.3 and the eGAUGE driver from Alan Chow:

I do not and here is why - I have standard electric feed, which switches automatically when I am making solar so that it is simply additive. I also have a propane fueled electric generator with an auto cut over switch on it. I have a line surge suppressor for the entire house also on line. SO - theoretically if my voltage drops below tolerable the generator will kick on so I don't think that I am having any issues with this. I also have a rather large number of electronics in the house and do not have problems that would be caused by brounouts and surges. So I cannot vouch for this function that it does or does not work. Bill

If you are using Alan Chow's driver, you need to know that it APPEARS that the latest verson of Conrol 4 breaks it in the following way: I used to be able to simply say If the Total Generation is Greater than the Total usage (see above) but... That no longer works in the latest update for some reason. No idea why. BUT If you assign the total generation and total usage each to a variable and then compare the Vaariables it DOES work again. Hopefully alan reads this and looks into it. Thanks, Bill

I know that hospitals and other public arenas are looking at this type of item. The issues are that unless you spend a lot of money, distance and false positives will cause more grief than are worth it. If you spend that much money you also should get face recognition... Bill

This is the latest state of the programming to do what I wanted (in case you are interested):

Renamed it to be Family Room - The statement - Alexa - Turn off Family Room results in her saying - OK - Here is Alarm.com - Sorry - you don't have permission to service that command. They are all LIghts, not switches. When you push the button on the Alexa app the lights all go on or off so it is not a connectivity issue. I have Alarm.com but I do not use it to turn on or off anything in my house...

OK - I seem to have no issue with my living room and dining room and living room - but my media room dos not want to behave. I have created in Alexa app a group called Media room. I changed all items to lights. (critical step) The app allows me to turn on and off the entire group with a button on the group screen. When I ask Alexa to turn on or off the Media Room she says OK. and nothing happens. She sees the group - I disabled and re-enabled the skill so Control 4 is also connected. What am I missing? Bill

Well - I have played with this for a little while now and have this code to show for it: Just in case anyone is interested or you have thoughts on how to improve what I am trying to accomplish. This sets a "mainsetbacktimer" that gives me a minimum of one hour when ever it is more than 72 degrees outside and I am in the positive for making energy. When the timer expires it lets the system recheck to see if I am still making energy and gives me another hour of air conditioning if so. If you see any better way to "smooth out" this process please let me know? What I am trying to prevent is the air conditioner coming on which immediately takes so much energy that I no longer am making money (because it might be on the threshold of just barely positive) and shutting it off which then turns it back on again in a vicious cycle that would not be good for the compressor. Comments or thoughts would be appreciated. Bill

Recently with Alan Chow's eGauge driver I have a light that tells me when I am making solar. I have a new goal that I could use a little help with please? I would like to "setback" my thermostat to 70 degrees when I am making solar - but I sort of need to "smooth out" the jagged peaks and troughs of partly sunny days. In other words - I can say if I am making solar (the light is on) then set back the thermostat to 70 degrees - but the solar egauge checks and updates every ten seconds and this will savage the thermostat. I think that what I need to do is have a timing variable that once I am making solar - I only allow the setback to occur say every 30 minutes or one hour While it will not be perfect - I could make energy for 5 seconds and then set back the thermostat and then it is cloudy until 2 seconds before the next check and then it stays set back but I really did not make any electricity. I think that I simply have to go with the law of averages on this one. Does anyone have any words of wisdom on a better way to do this? Bill