BraydonH

Curious what is the point of even having a Sonos Connect when you have a T1. Control4's music streaming services are great now. Except for really niche streaming services Control4 pretty much has it all. With Shairbridge and perhaps a Chromecast you would be able to stream anything from any service off pretty much any type of smartphone. At my own house I have uninstalled my SONOS Connect Amp and moved entirely to C4 streaming services and it has been great. Why not just a CONNECT AMP if your that adamant about SONOS?

No no no! NEVER tie the pairs together. That is how you break an amp. You need to series parallel wire them https://www.hometoys.com/article/2002/06/series--parallel-speaker-wiring/1775/ That might not make sense but NEVER EVER just double up and put both reds and both blacks under one terminal.

Anyone have a driver for this? Paid or free doesn't matter just need to source one out.

Why not an Nvidia Shield? It might not be as good as a custom built PC, but it is amazing for its price point. Get an IRUSB and call it a day.

The other major concern I have is price. Right now the price point of the SR260 is perfect. I would imagine this new touchscreen remote will be $1000+CAD and I would have a really hard time trying to sell $1000 remote controls. I use it it my sales pitch that all the other guys remotes cost a grand, but the C4 remote is cheap so you dont have to worry about breaking it or the dog chewing it or whatever. The MOST I would be willing to pay for a NEEO is $600 CAD. Any more than that and I would likely just stick with SR-260's. NO ONE I know wants a $1000 remote. Maybe im in the minority here but how many of you would pay a grand for a remote?

Yes much more advantageous. Also those C4 Matrix Amps are built very very well and rarely if ever have failures or issues. I wouldn't worry about buying a used one because it will likely still work for many years to come. Even brand new the price point on the 4 zone amp is great in my opinion.

Just wondering how you guys made out with this. I have a client who wants to convert to Control4. Their setup is pretty weird. They currently have an AMX Processor and use the AMX app to control everything, but the multiroom amp is an RTI AD-8X. Seems weird that AMX would be using an RTI amp but hwo knows. The goal is to rip out the AMX processor and replace with an EA5. All their other gear will integrate with C4 just fine, except the RTI AD-8X. They said they would convert if that didnt need to get replaced as well. Becuase I would have to replace it with an C4-16AMP which costs quite a bit up here in Canada. Would love a driver either way, whether I need to purchase it or there is a free one floating around. Any help appreciated. Thanks.

Here it is. Selecting a Specific Station for preset 1, then a generic source (in this case an Apple Airport Express Used for Airplay) then the third preset is another tunein station. You can do this with Sirius, Deezer, Even Spotify Favorites. Don't see what your issue is. Perhaps your not just selecting TuneIn First. Select TuneIn first, then another menu magically appears to select the station.

Same here. With Denon stick with anything X-series 3500H and up. The 1500h and 2500h are lacking. Go with the 3500h. Stay away from the S Series.

Yea Denon over Marantz, espcially because OP said he wants to scale the budget back. Marantz is basically the same thing it just costs more. If he was super high end go with Marantz but for this guy the Denon will do just fine.

Definitely don't try to use zone 2/3 on the amps. Get a c4-8amp for the 4 zones of audio, and get a denon/sony/yamaha/integra/onkyo/marantz for the theatre rooms. They all have good IP control. We typically do the Denon AVR-X3500H.

Why not use the Room Control Driver with the Preset Source Cycler. Works like a charm and it is WAY easier then the mountain of programming you have there. You can absolutely select certain stations or favorites. Mines cycles through 3 specific Sirius XM stations that I have set.

once your first bring the light into the system it might be ID 17. Then it will glitch out and you will have to re add the light. It will now be like ID 43. So you delete the old ID17 out of the philips app because its no longer relevant, then you have to reprogram any C4 stuff and replace anything using ID 17 with ID 43 for example.

Just a question for any UBNT pros out there. I have installed a ton of the UAP-AC-PRO models. I was wondering if the Nano is a better product? The AC Pro has better 2.4 (which a lot of devices still use) and the Nano has better 5G and it also has MU-MIMO and a 4x4 antenna array. Would you guys say the Nano has way better performance? It being a smaller form factor too is kinda nice.

Curious what you replaced it with