BraydonH

Unless your upgrading your system that costs seems crazy high. I do yearly tune-ups that can cost less than $200 CAD + a 4sight license. My yearly tuneup includes making sure all drivers are up to date, C4 OS is up to date, and making sure everything is working and up to date. That includes updating networking devices and anything else. It really only takes about 2 hours or less and we are done. Now if you get a new Door Station, or add lights, or happen to have a product failure that cost is going to be much higher. But for the yearly cost of Control4, even if you factor in the cost of 4 sight should be no more than maybe $300-$350 - unless something breaks or you add to the system or upgrade certain components.

Becuase his JAP stuff is 1080p and he wants 4K60 4:4:4. So he either has to replace every single JAP transmitter and receiver or buy the AV Pro Edge gear. If you want the 4K JAP stuff with audio down mixing it is pretty expensive and I bet he could swap to AVProEdge for less than replacing the JAP gear. Also the JAP gear is only 4K30.

I got a driver from Yaki at iControl. It works great now. PM me if you want his e-mail info to contact him. https://www.icontrol.co.il/ Website is foreign but Yaki speaks English and is very helpful

Also the new offical ip driver absolutely requires an EA controller for reasons I cannot understand. So a guy like me with an HC800 could benefit from something like this. Curious, my favorite feature of the old IP driver was that the numbers jumped to the corresponding part of the video. For example if you pressed 3 it would instantly jump to 30% through the video. 9 would jump to 90% does your driver work in this fashion?

You should really be using a proper HDBaseT extender for this. HDMI cables can break and cannot be upgraded or replaced. Also what happens when 8K is here? Your cable is then garbage. Atleast with HDbaseT you could just upgrade to an 8K extender for example. None the less here is what you asked for https://keydigital.org/shop/product/kd-pro50gx-1101 https://keydigital.org/shop/product/kd-aoch328-1177

I have ran into this too. We used to use ProConnect because they were cheap and worked great. But AVAD dropped the line and now we dont have any sort of replacement without spending big bucks. It was the EX1HAD and the price was great. I dont know if I am crazy but I cant even find the proconnect website anymore. I guess they are really gone now. AVAD replaced proconnect with MSTR Brand and they dont have something similar in their lineup. Ideally this product would cost around $75 CAD or so,

I have only ever used the hue products before. Quick question with TP link can you actually dim the bulb using a dimmer? Or do you need to wire it to power all the time then send programming commands to actually dim it?

The Z-Wave driver is fully functional and reports the state of the lock fine. The dongle is pricey, the range is crap and the performance isn't there. If you had the same lock in C4 Zigbee or the same long in Z-wave with the Dongle the C4 Zigbee one will work much much better. I hate when people try to back door the door locks to try and save $50/lock. Just buy a proper zigbee one from your dealer and be done with it. Only use Z-wave if you inherited locks from an old alarm system and they are already in place. Buying them yourself on ebay or where ever is just not worth the hassle for the little to no money you will save at the end of the day.

You can keep the HC800. It still works great on OS 3.1 - I still have one at my own house. You will need to get rid of any HC-250s, Old touch Panels, and swap the driver for the sony recievers. You may need an IOX, Z2IO or another controller to control things now that the receivers arn't going be be able to do that. Upgrading to an EA5 is a good idea, but don't think that you HAVE to buy an EA5. Your HC800 is still suporrted and will work fine. Now for how much longer will the HC800 be supported is unknown, but as of today its fine. Heck I bet the HC800 IR outputs aren't even being used and if you really got a craft dealer he could likely splice IR out of the HC800 to a Cat5 cable in the room and upgrade the system with little to no extra hardware required. maybe not though. Have them run the OS3 Updater and give you the OS3 upgrade Report generated from Composer. That should clearly outline what products you have that are no longer supported.

It really could use a few more buttons that's for sure... Like not even a guide button? I would have definitely thought it would have had a mic too. I mean it doesn't hurt the product line up but I was hoping for a bit more.

Yea I mean honestly you might want to replace them with an IOX. Then you never have to worry about a future OS compatibility issues. But for what your talking about the EA1 would be a great replacement.

Interesting, I did not know that luma was rebranded hikvision. Any chance you could point me to the Hik equivilent of a LUMA-510 analog? https://www.snapav.com/shop/en/snapav/analog-cameras/luma-surveillance-trade%3B-510-series-dome-analog-camera-black-lum-510-dom-a-bl

Ive been using Interlogix for years, but now with them shutting down I am going to need to find a new line of Cameras. I think we will likely move to LUMA Cameras. They are pricey but they do work very well in and out of the C4 ecosystem. Anyone know if LUMA cameras are rebadged from another brand? As far as I can tell they seem to be unique, but I could be wrong.

The benefits of integrating the sound bar is so you can do things like Control Volume, Change inputs, power it on and off. He did mention connecting via optcial so you would need to control the soundbar as well. And ARC is way to finicky to rely just on that. ChopedDogg hit the nail on the head though. We basically only sell the same ones he is mentioning, Sony, Sonos, Heos. The sony stuff is surprising good. And for its price point I dont think it can be beat. The HTCT800 is dirt cheap, comes with a wireless subwoofer and had SDDP IP drivers. It kicks ass and the product line only goes up from there. And then of course you have the option of going the Passive Sounbar route and doing a Triad LCR soundbar with something like a Denon AVR powering it. Usually we do the active soundbars because its a little easier. But if you really want something kick ass go with the passive solution.

I feel your pain. Only have 4 settings sucks big time.