shawkyns

I have an old hc800 and several hc250 boxes pulled from my system years ago when I upgraded to the ea. is there any point in trying to sell them? Do they have any worth or just throw them in the bin??

Outs or not, I just hope that Josh will be supported by control4 or Snap going forward. I had this put into my house a year or so ago, and find it really opens the system for use. My wife was not a huge fan of control4, found it confusing at times.. she loves just being able to tell josh to 'play music in the backyard', or to turn off all the lights in 5 minutes and not have to go to a touchscreen and mess with the hierarchical controls to adjust the 7 thermostats we have in the house. using alexa or even siri, which we did for a time, is just not the same.

We did that. Still not working.

HI Guys is there anybody out there who knows the unifi driver suite, and hopefully hue as well? I have recently upgraded several lights in the house to hue bulbs. upstairs, I have a single light, controlled by an older dimmer switch (v1 maybe), with the lights at the top and bottom of the switch. it also has a second control point which is a button on a newer keypad (to toggle the light off and on). I also have six hue downlights now installed in my basement theater room, and two more in the hallways downstairs to that room. the hall lights are controlled by an older model dimmer switch, and two aux keypads (two button, also the older style).. and the theater lights are controlled by a single older style dimmer switch. the problem I am having in both locations is with the color lights on the switches and keypads. the house has a unified theme of top light on the switch being blue when the light is on, and the bottom being red when the light is off. this is not happening with the switches controlling the hue bulbs. Originally, when we put the first one, the clock light, we tried disabling the LED checkbox (also disabled load attached checkbox so it behaves as a keypad). the light is essentially blue all the time.. this is only on the switch that we are trying to program as a keypad. the same thing is happening downstairs, with both lights we have in the theater, although the old keypads do work and switch from red to blue. My dealer went in a programmed a lot to try and get this working, essentially trying to program the color of the light against the brightness of the hue, less than 1pc causing the bottom light to swith to red an the top to blue, but this is not working either. it stays blue all the time, unless you reenable the keypad attached setting and switch the load off. not really how I want to use it with the hue bulbs. on another note, I have the unifi protect driver, which has been working great, but which now does not send video to the t3 touchpanels or to the ios devices in the system. It also does not seem to be sending video from one of the two chime's that are in the system.. this was working well until two months ago, and not really sure where to go for troubleshooting on this. dealer tried re-enabling and relogging on using the driver, but although this allows the camera to be pulled up in the test through composer pro and shows connected, and can pull up video in cpro,it does not work at all with the TS or IOS. any ideas on troubleshooting would be welcome, or if there is somebody that knows this stuff that can remote in and troubleshoot and get it fixed I would be happy to pay for the time, steve

just was looking for a way to do this, and it works great with the z2io and aprilaire. hopefully if there is a zigbee failure, the therm will default back to the internal sensor. I will next try doing this with two z2io and the temp aggregator driver to see if I can even out the temps across the bedrooms in my basement. I wish the therm would read back a temp into the aggregator as well, but it does not seem to pass this value.

anybody have or can acquire two of these for me, I am looking for the one that is on a wire and can be mounted outside the rack. thanks

we are pulling a few wires and terminating some other that have been pre run for the josh. when the house was first wired, he pulled 2-3 extra cables per room. so, we wont be able to do fiber, though it is a great ides.

thanks for all the replies. I may put a roku in just because it will work better with josh, but then again roku.. really dont like the interface at all. I am hopeful they will get better ATV integration in the future. Right now, I have the video sources in the rack. HDMI runs to the b300 matrix, and is split to HDMI from the matrix to the receivers and to cat5 for the video run to the rooms. audio in the room is through the receiver only. If I go app tv, like the sony, then getting audio back would be the hard part, especially for 5.1 I dont want to put receivers in each room, and the speaker wiring is already run back to the rack and would be really hard and expensive to move.

I dont care that much about synced video, originally it was a way to get 2 directv boxes working in multiple rooms, with the audio extracted to play in other areas. I have seen about 5k for the 4k matrix system, and it seems as if the JAP would cost about 2x that price, plus need networking upgrades. I dont want to really run a VLAN on dedicated equipment, and from everything I have read anecdotally, 4k JAP is a real hog when it comes to networking bandwidth and speed if you dont run the vlan.. I was thinking about JAP for the audio return, but that is only 2ch stereo.. the runs are too long for HDMI, which is why we did the b30o and are now considering hdbaset, because even over cat5e there are still video glitches. Steve

So I am in the process of making some changes to my system. My dealer, after discussion, has become josh certified, and will be coming out this summer to pull wire for nano and micro installations. since he is here, we will also be doing some upgrades, mainly to my standalone theater room.. However, we have been discussing potentially upgrading the video in the rest of the house as well. Currently, I have a TV in my LR, which is a old panasonic plasma, running 720p. I have 720p tv's in each of the bedrooms (3 more), a mix of JVC and samsung, all connected through a matrix (binary b300). all get audio from receivers in the rack. my daughters room is c4 connected @4k with a standalone appleTV and LG screen, but it is not run into the matrix, and as such the audio is not playable currently through the receiver that provides audio to her room. My dealer is throwing out the idea of replacing the matrix with a new one, that does 4k, and uses HDbaset, which might prevent some of the interference issues I am having now with the more remote tv's (light in room at anything but off or 100percent on causes video glitches). This would allow me to keep my centralized receivers, and my main video device, Apple TV ( we have two running through matrix). we also have video from a BR, one in the living room and one in the bedroom, both of which send video/audio back through a hdbaset set into the matrix as well. this is a reduction from what we used to have, since we have taken out the roku, directv, DUNE player.. although I am reconsidering dune with josh being installed. Ideally, I would like to make the move to 4k in all of the rooms. replace the tv's with newer (probably sony), but leave the BD players as is.. most of our watch is streaming anyway these days, and I have 4k BD for the theater. would it be worth it to ditch the matrix? it seemed like it was good to have when I had directv, and multiple sources, but now it is basically appletv and maybe a BR. if I went this route, is there a good way to get the audio from the TV back to the rack so I can still use the AVR? I was thinking of using the HDMI ARC to a JAP, and break out the audio at the rack, but this seems like an expensive overkill for just audio. dealer has suggested maybe using HDMI sender receiver units to do the same thing, but this seems like it may be a bit of a kludge and rack hog, not that JAP wouldnt be... plus it needs its own VLAN from what I have read. I would really love to hear some suggestions as to the best way forward for this, and what other people have ended using as solutions for a setup like this. TIA

agree, but unleashed is relatively new for ruckus. not an option when I had my first one or second. back then they wouldnt even upgrade the firmware without a service plan. look, if what you have works for you, then great.. but the OP was asking about getting out of ruckus for UNIFI.. I am offering a point of view. been there, done that. I am not arguing that if I had four ruckus AP's I probably would NOT have switched IF unleashed had been an option, but then again I would have had to buy at least three more ruckus AP at about a grand each, and at the time a zonnecontroller as well, even without that UNIFI still offers better cover and throughput with multiple AP's, and at a fraction of the cost. I can upgrade everything to WIFI6 once they become available and still be at less than a quarter of the cost of a new ruckus unit. the truth, from my point of view, is that you are paying a premium for ruckus. I dont think that the performance justifies that, and I dont know that is is THAT much better than unifi. There used to be a website, forget the name, that compared the performance of various networking products.. they did a UNIFI AP vs a Ruckus AP at one point, and I dont remember the performance being that much better to justify the 4x cost premium. cant find the website now though, I think it got pulled years ago.

I cant, that is the point. Unless you are willing to sign up for some ridiculous service plan, which might make sense in a enterprise environment, ruckus wont cover a larger home with any efficiency. If I had unlimited funds, I would have paid the fees they charge and out in two or three AP's from ruckus with a zonecontroller to manage it, but in the long term, heck even in the short term that would have been more expensive then just ripping them out and replacing them with distributed AP's, running UBNT, so no service cost. the entire unifi system cost less than the cost of the ruckus AP I was using, and the cover is much better. I also considered cisco, but that had the same problems as the ruckus, expensive service contracts, super high up front cost.

I had aa ruckus AP. not the whole managed system. LOVED it for awhile, then as we started having more devices, using stuff more in the front and back yards the limitations became obvious. essentially, had one AP, and was relying on their beamforming to get good cover through 3600 upper, 1500 basement and yard. stuff that was in the same drywall area had great throughput, then this dropped rapidly once you went through one drywall set, and after two, had decent bars, but very low throughput. had a ruckus guy out, who 'upgraded' me to the latest AP, but indicated there is minimal support unless I have a service contract. went to UBNT, and never really looked back. I had minimal issues doing the switch but it had to be planned for. Now I am running small in wall AP's in most rooms, with a larger AP in the main living area, and one in the front and back yards,. Have great cover and throughout everywhere now. highly recommend UBNT, but with some caveats... 1) never run the latest firmware 2) NEVER run beta firmware 3) only add one or two devices as a time, and give the network time to stabilize. it has been rock solid now for several years. I would recommend writing down all the IP addresses of devices you have on the network now, then making sure the same devices keep the same IP when you switch over. I use a combo of DHCP for wireless and uncontrolled devices, and IP reservations for everything that is 'connected' or C4 related. good luck

I have a set of POLK atrium outdoor speakers, four of them around the pool and yard, and then two patio speakers, all distributed audio run by the snap amps that do the rest of the house. the outdoor is an independent zone, but having multiple speakers allows for decent listening at neighbor friendly volumes everywhere in the yard (small yard 100x40). I agree that unless you are really looking to get high quality audio and spend money, you are better off using lower price speakers. learned this the hard way, spent a fortune on the 'rock' speakers when I first did the yard but had them fail after a few years. AZ is harsh on anything outdoors. The when they gave up, I got the polk outdoor speakers. 1/3 the price, had my landscape guy build some small waist high block structures for them then painted the whole thing to match the fence. If I ever have to replace them, it is just two hand screws and some wire twists. Highly recommend checking them out.

sympathies. I had that same driver and had it uninstalled when C4 integrated pandora. it was the only reason it was in my system. grace was awesome for its time..