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About shawkyns

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    Control4 End User

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  1. I just replaced one of my 10 year old yamaha's with the 485. this was a hard driver to find, but I managed to get one of the newer RX drivers working for IP control. I dont remember the exact driver I used, but it was one of the rx a drivers with a 2016 publish date from yamaha. to get it to work I had to identify it using the network tool for IP address, then also put the IP in the driver window in system design, then redo the connections and also a system reset. it will work! steve
  2. on my setup the only thing that changed was the boxes. upstairs the hr44 to a 54, and downstairs the old 24 to the new gen 24. i had also recently changed the receiver to a 3080, but had zero problems with the older gen1 24 that was originally installed and worked great for a year until the hdd blew. my system is wired upstairs as hr44 and hr24 each with a separate input to the matrix. the 24 goes through a chinese hdmi splitter with 'human' hdmi protection ;) that strips the hdcp. as I ssaid, zero problems with this one. the matrix is a snap av 300 i believe.. cat5 to the end location, and a snap cat to hdmi converter box. the baluns do have length adjustment, but again NOTHING has really changed in the system. this behavior of no audio also exists in every location that I can stream directv input from the 54. so it is probably something that is happening in the handshake to the matrix, as a reset will clear it. steve
  3. I have the same issues with the same setup. I have three direct TV boxes. one hr54, and two 24?'s... the two tuner DVR version. Two of them are running into my rack upstairs, with snap 8x8 matrix, and one is downstairs in our theater room, running into a yamaha 3080. we have almost weekly cutouts on audio with the 54, running into the matrix. only way to get it working is to set the matrix up to watch that DVR on a particular input, then restart the directv box. the other one that runs into the matrix is run through a box I got on amazon which strips the hdcp and that one NEVER has a problem. If I could find an other one of those boxes, I would put it in a heartbeat, but they dont seem to be available anymore. the one downstairs does not work at all.. for audio, not video. I have had directv out and they have tried new cables and a new box, but cant get it to handshake with the recievrr to give audio. port works with other devices, so nobody can really figure out the issue. Directv ended up giving me a pair of analog rca cables to run audio to the analog input of the yamaha, and at least I now have sound.. but it is a kludge to be sure. I think it is a fault with the directv boxes causing all of these issues. issues never happened when I had a 44 box instead of the 54, and issues downstairs did not start till I had a hard drive failure on my old 24, which was replaced with a recent generation 24 (same box different internals). it must have something to do with how the newer boxes are handshaking with my hardware. if anybody finds a solution would love to hear it.
  4. kind of a kludge.. you could create a dummy switch in c4. that switch would show up in homekit. then you could create a automation in homekit so that when gate was open, switch is on, and when gate is closed, switch is off. that would then give you the opportunity to program against the switch in control4. works for me for a few devices that I have homekit for but not c4...
  5. as a really involved end user, I would have to agree, but I am going to place the blame on C4 rather than apple. apple updates, innovates.. all the time. sometimes these standards change in the interest of privacy.. that is a good thing. However, as a manufacturer of control solutions, C4 as a business should realize that there is a HUGE installed base of apple TV, and with the intro of apple TV plus and the integration of streaming services with apple, this number will only grow. just as they have put the effort in to integrate Alexa and amazon, they should be putting equal effort in to bring apple tv users on board. When I had my C4 system installed, I had multiple boxes to provide content: apple tv, roku (used mainly for amazon), Dune box, for stuff that I had stored on a local server, Grace Player for Pandora and Sirius, and finally a mac mini used for itunes streaming. now I am in the process of consolidating. I have gotten rid of the Dune because infuse provided the same functionality on the apple TV (dont see a roku version).. grace is gone cause C4 now streams pandora.. Roku is mostly gone, because appletv now has a amazon app. also, with roku, the box needs frequent restarts because the newer versions of the box are not fully compatible with my SNAP matrix. Apple is not a closed wall, not for many years, developers can write apps for these boxes and for phones, and they can be controlled with gaming remote that duplicate the function of the apple remote. I cannot believe that my 40 dollar aftermarket steel gaming remote controls my apple TV, where my 40k worth of control4 gear cannot, without resorting to IR, which is slow, or upgrading to a new controller, which does not seem that different from the old one. Ideally they would put in the resources to either 1) allow native control of apple TV AND stream itunes or 2) make the whole system fully integrate with homekit. And BTW to veriatas for their awesome homekit solution. I am in process of obtaining an ea5 for testing to see how this will work with the new driver, as I find the new IR really unusable on my system. It does not seem to have the shortcuts that the old IP driver did (home.. please home),and there is always a delay, small, but noticeable enough to be annoying. and yes, I now have a HC box devoted entirely to providing IR connections to the flashers for my 2 apple TV boxes. Hopefully this will get sorted soon.. apple tv is becoming more valuable to me than ever before, and as my household slowly cuts the directv cord, streaming replacement content ON APPLE TV will become more and more important.
  6. I will take the audio matrix switch that you have listed. would you take sell it for the 250plus the shipping? steve
  7. what would the shipping be for the touchscreen and 1 ea? to az 85383
  8. hi so v1 driver is no longer working. V2 driver works but requires os3? but you are coming out with a fix for the v2 ddriver for 2.0 OS?
  9. This is probably the worst time to ask for this with 3.0 coming out today, but is anybody here a dealer, or does anybody here know a dealer that might be able to help with a driver install? I recently updated my pool control to intellicenter, and I have the driver installed in my system but it wont connect to the pool. I have troubleshot as much as I am able, but now need some professional help getting this working.. hopefully in the next few days. thanks Steve
  10. anybody know where to get the intellicenter driver. upgrading my intellitouch next week, and want to keep integration. have heard of the homeation driver, but cannot find it listed anywhere. is there anybody who could point me to this, or send me a copy if it is a free driver? thanks Steve
  11. do the 260's come with charging? steve
  12. So I had some time this morning and I played around with this a bit more. I loaded the IP driver from your website into my project in a hidden room, and I looked at the differences between control. Essentially, when this device is connected, and is part of a pass-through stream from an Apple TV or other device into the rear HDMI input, the system never seems to be able to select the correct input. This results in the issue that I, and roll dog seem to be having, no consistency in selecting the rear HDMI as an input source. On the generic IP driver, there is an actual programming command to select the device input, this can then be paired with a numerical value to select the correct source when using the device in the system. So for example, when my system selects the AppleTV I have a programming statement that says when the source of the room changes, if the source is going to be the AppleTV, then it turns on the Blu-ray player, delays for a few seconds to allow it to boot, and then sends an input command, followed by a two command. This essentially switches the input to the rear HDMI, and allows me to watch the Apple TV which is connected to it. I have tried having the Blu-ray player turn on when the system turns on, to see if it was maybe a boot up delay that was causing the system to miss switching the input, however even with the device on it does not reliably change the input for the Blu-ray to use the rear HDMI input. This also holds true when trying to switch back to watch Blu-ray after watching the device that has been connected to the rear HDMI. Using the same programming sequence, but changing it slightly I am able to tell the player to select Blu-ray as the input when the room source changes. Looking at your IP driver, there does not seem to be a programming command for input, although you do have commands for other keypad functions. Unless I am missing it, this seems to be the missing link that would allow this driver to work in a system that has a pass-through source going through the Blu-ray player. Without it, control4 does not seem to automatically select the correct input when changing sources. My original question stands, is there a way to get a dedicated input, at least as a programming command, In an updated version of your driver. It doesn't necessarily have to be a command that selects the rear HDMI, anything that sends an input command can be followed by a numerical value which would tell the player which input to use. I have not played around with it, but it seems as if chowmain's driver allows for this input command. It seems as if this is something that is allowed over IP control, but are simply not yet implemented in your version of the driver. As I stated previously, I would much prefer to use the licensed oppo driver over IP then have to pay for a third-party driver, as well as for a dealer to insert this programming into my system. Is there anyway you might be able to advise us if your current plans will allow for this functionality on your IP driver? Alternatively, I am completely open to the fact that I might be missing something in my programming, or in my review of how to use the driver, if this is the case, would you please advise me as to how I should change either the connections, or the selection programming to allow for reliable use when using VIP driver and selecting a pass-through source. This is really only a situation that will probably be bothering me for the next 16 months, as i plan to update my receiver to a 4K version sometime this year, as soon as the new products are out and reliably being manufactured. It would be nice to not have to kludge together a solution until that point though. Steve
  13. would you split the sale, interested in the ea5
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