shawkyns

I have an old hc800 and several hc250 boxes pulled from my system years ago when I upgraded to the ea. is there any point in trying to sell them? Do they have any worth or just throw them in the bin??

Outs or not, I just hope that Josh will be supported by control4 or Snap going forward. I had this put into my house a year or so ago, and find it really opens the system for use. My wife was not a huge fan of control4, found it confusing at times.. she loves just being able to tell josh to 'play music in the backyard', or to turn off all the lights in 5 minutes and not have to go to a touchscreen and mess with the hierarchical controls to adjust the 7 thermostats we have in the house. using alexa or even siri, which we did for a time, is just not the same.

We did that. Still not working.

HI Guys is there anybody out there who knows the unifi driver suite, and hopefully hue as well? I have recently upgraded several lights in the house to hue bulbs. upstairs, I have a single light, controlled by an older dimmer switch (v1 maybe), with the lights at the top and bottom of the switch. it also has a second control point which is a button on a newer keypad (to toggle the light off and on). I also have six hue downlights now installed in my basement theater room, and two more in the hallways downstairs to that room. the hall lights are controlled by an older model dimmer switch, and two aux keypads (two button, also the older style).. and the theater lights are controlled by a single older style dimmer switch. the problem I am having in both locations is with the color lights on the switches and keypads. the house has a unified theme of top light on the switch being blue when the light is on, and the bottom being red when the light is off. this is not happening with the switches controlling the hue bulbs. Originally, when we put the first one, the clock light, we tried disabling the LED checkbox (also disabled load attached checkbox so it behaves as a keypad). the light is essentially blue all the time.. this is only on the switch that we are trying to program as a keypad. the same thing is happening downstairs, with both lights we have in the theater, although the old keypads do work and switch from red to blue. My dealer went in a programmed a lot to try and get this working, essentially trying to program the color of the light against the brightness of the hue, less than 1pc causing the bottom light to swith to red an the top to blue, but this is not working either. it stays blue all the time, unless you reenable the keypad attached setting and switch the load off. not really how I want to use it with the hue bulbs. on another note, I have the unifi protect driver, which has been working great, but which now does not send video to the t3 touchpanels or to the ios devices in the system. It also does not seem to be sending video from one of the two chime's that are in the system.. this was working well until two months ago, and not really sure where to go for troubleshooting on this. dealer tried re-enabling and relogging on using the driver, but although this allows the camera to be pulled up in the test through composer pro and shows connected, and can pull up video in cpro,it does not work at all with the TS or IOS. any ideas on troubleshooting would be welcome, or if there is somebody that knows this stuff that can remote in and troubleshoot and get it fixed I would be happy to pay for the time, steve

just was looking for a way to do this, and it works great with the z2io and aprilaire. hopefully if there is a zigbee failure, the therm will default back to the internal sensor. I will next try doing this with two z2io and the temp aggregator driver to see if I can even out the temps across the bedrooms in my basement. I wish the therm would read back a temp into the aggregator as well, but it does not seem to pass this value.

anybody have or can acquire two of these for me, I am looking for the one that is on a wire and can be mounted outside the rack. thanks

we are pulling a few wires and terminating some other that have been pre run for the josh. when the house was first wired, he pulled 2-3 extra cables per room. so, we wont be able to do fiber, though it is a great ides.

thanks for all the replies. I may put a roku in just because it will work better with josh, but then again roku.. really dont like the interface at all. I am hopeful they will get better ATV integration in the future. Right now, I have the video sources in the rack. HDMI runs to the b300 matrix, and is split to HDMI from the matrix to the receivers and to cat5 for the video run to the rooms. audio in the room is through the receiver only. If I go app tv, like the sony, then getting audio back would be the hard part, especially for 5.1 I dont want to put receivers in each room, and the speaker wiring is already run back to the rack and would be really hard and expensive to move.

I dont care that much about synced video, originally it was a way to get 2 directv boxes working in multiple rooms, with the audio extracted to play in other areas. I have seen about 5k for the 4k matrix system, and it seems as if the JAP would cost about 2x that price, plus need networking upgrades. I dont want to really run a VLAN on dedicated equipment, and from everything I have read anecdotally, 4k JAP is a real hog when it comes to networking bandwidth and speed if you dont run the vlan.. I was thinking about JAP for the audio return, but that is only 2ch stereo.. the runs are too long for HDMI, which is why we did the b30o and are now considering hdbaset, because even over cat5e there are still video glitches. Steve

So I am in the process of making some changes to my system. My dealer, after discussion, has become josh certified, and will be coming out this summer to pull wire for nano and micro installations. since he is here, we will also be doing some upgrades, mainly to my standalone theater room.. However, we have been discussing potentially upgrading the video in the rest of the house as well. Currently, I have a TV in my LR, which is a old panasonic plasma, running 720p. I have 720p tv's in each of the bedrooms (3 more), a mix of JVC and samsung, all connected through a matrix (binary b300). all get audio from receivers in the rack. my daughters room is c4 connected @4k with a standalone appleTV and LG screen, but it is not run into the matrix, and as such the audio is not playable currently through the receiver that provides audio to her room. My dealer is throwing out the idea of replacing the matrix with a new one, that does 4k, and uses HDbaset, which might prevent some of the interference issues I am having now with the more remote tv's (light in room at anything but off or 100percent on causes video glitches). This would allow me to keep my centralized receivers, and my main video device, Apple TV ( we have two running through matrix). we also have video from a BR, one in the living room and one in the bedroom, both of which send video/audio back through a hdbaset set into the matrix as well. this is a reduction from what we used to have, since we have taken out the roku, directv, DUNE player.. although I am reconsidering dune with josh being installed. Ideally, I would like to make the move to 4k in all of the rooms. replace the tv's with newer (probably sony), but leave the BD players as is.. most of our watch is streaming anyway these days, and I have 4k BD for the theater. would it be worth it to ditch the matrix? it seemed like it was good to have when I had directv, and multiple sources, but now it is basically appletv and maybe a BR. if I went this route, is there a good way to get the audio from the TV back to the rack so I can still use the AVR? I was thinking of using the HDMI ARC to a JAP, and break out the audio at the rack, but this seems like an expensive overkill for just audio. dealer has suggested maybe using HDMI sender receiver units to do the same thing, but this seems like it may be a bit of a kludge and rack hog, not that JAP wouldnt be... plus it needs its own VLAN from what I have read. I would really love to hear some suggestions as to the best way forward for this, and what other people have ended using as solutions for a setup like this. TIA

agree, but unleashed is relatively new for ruckus. not an option when I had my first one or second. back then they wouldnt even upgrade the firmware without a service plan. look, if what you have works for you, then great.. but the OP was asking about getting out of ruckus for UNIFI.. I am offering a point of view. been there, done that. I am not arguing that if I had four ruckus AP's I probably would NOT have switched IF unleashed had been an option, but then again I would have had to buy at least three more ruckus AP at about a grand each, and at the time a zonnecontroller as well, even without that UNIFI still offers better cover and throughput with multiple AP's, and at a fraction of the cost. I can upgrade everything to WIFI6 once they become available and still be at less than a quarter of the cost of a new ruckus unit. the truth, from my point of view, is that you are paying a premium for ruckus. I dont think that the performance justifies that, and I dont know that is is THAT much better than unifi. There used to be a website, forget the name, that compared the performance of various networking products.. they did a UNIFI AP vs a Ruckus AP at one point, and I dont remember the performance being that much better to justify the 4x cost premium. cant find the website now though, I think it got pulled years ago.

I cant, that is the point. Unless you are willing to sign up for some ridiculous service plan, which might make sense in a enterprise environment, ruckus wont cover a larger home with any efficiency. If I had unlimited funds, I would have paid the fees they charge and out in two or three AP's from ruckus with a zonecontroller to manage it, but in the long term, heck even in the short term that would have been more expensive then just ripping them out and replacing them with distributed AP's, running UBNT, so no service cost. the entire unifi system cost less than the cost of the ruckus AP I was using, and the cover is much better. I also considered cisco, but that had the same problems as the ruckus, expensive service contracts, super high up front cost.

I had aa ruckus AP. not the whole managed system. LOVED it for awhile, then as we started having more devices, using stuff more in the front and back yards the limitations became obvious. essentially, had one AP, and was relying on their beamforming to get good cover through 3600 upper, 1500 basement and yard. stuff that was in the same drywall area had great throughput, then this dropped rapidly once you went through one drywall set, and after two, had decent bars, but very low throughput. had a ruckus guy out, who 'upgraded' me to the latest AP, but indicated there is minimal support unless I have a service contract. went to UBNT, and never really looked back. I had minimal issues doing the switch but it had to be planned for. Now I am running small in wall AP's in most rooms, with a larger AP in the main living area, and one in the front and back yards,. Have great cover and throughout everywhere now. highly recommend UBNT, but with some caveats... 1) never run the latest firmware 2) NEVER run beta firmware 3) only add one or two devices as a time, and give the network time to stabilize. it has been rock solid now for several years. I would recommend writing down all the IP addresses of devices you have on the network now, then making sure the same devices keep the same IP when you switch over. I use a combo of DHCP for wireless and uncontrolled devices, and IP reservations for everything that is 'connected' or C4 related. good luck

I have a set of POLK atrium outdoor speakers, four of them around the pool and yard, and then two patio speakers, all distributed audio run by the snap amps that do the rest of the house. the outdoor is an independent zone, but having multiple speakers allows for decent listening at neighbor friendly volumes everywhere in the yard (small yard 100x40). I agree that unless you are really looking to get high quality audio and spend money, you are better off using lower price speakers. learned this the hard way, spent a fortune on the 'rock' speakers when I first did the yard but had them fail after a few years. AZ is harsh on anything outdoors. The when they gave up, I got the polk outdoor speakers. 1/3 the price, had my landscape guy build some small waist high block structures for them then painted the whole thing to match the fence. If I ever have to replace them, it is just two hand screws and some wire twists. Highly recommend checking them out.

sympathies. I had that same driver and had it uninstalled when C4 integrated pandora. it was the only reason it was in my system. grace was awesome for its time..

yes, laserdisc.. I still have a 600 disc collection that has a few things I want to watch every once in awhile. I still have four players in box in storage for when the one I am using now breaks down. So, this is going to be my last post on this topic. again thank you to msgreenf for providing the solution to this. and for others who made suggestions. As for some of the other replies, you know who you are, I really am having a hard time with your judgmental attitude. I really hope that you come across better to your customers than you do on these forums. When I was first considering the smart home route, I had three estimates done before I found my dealer. I was ready to give up on the whole thing because the dealers who came out were either condescending, took weeks to do a simple estimate, or seemed more interested in having the system work the way they thought it should instead of the way I wanted and needed it to. Thankfully, I found the dealer I have now, who was referred by a friend at work.. who was willing to accommodate my schedule, and who was willing to listen to what I wanted to be able to do with the system. Unfortunately he is no longer local, but is still willing to sell me equipment to install and upgrade, and to remote program when I need him to. Awesome guy, and I wish more of the 'smarthome'' people would be like him. about two years ago, I had to have new AC installed in my house. three systems.. long and short is that because of my schedule, I was only able to give them one day to do the work. yes, my work schedule is that bad, and my time commitments are that strenuous. they did the work, but f###ed up the connection to the thermostats, blowing up two of them when the system was turned on. These were the old C4 therms, with remote sensing in each room for temp. AC guys had no clue about the C4 therms, how to troubleshoot them, or how to fix the problem, and recommended I call a C4 dealer. so here we go, called 5 local dealers to see if I could get somebody out to trouble shoot this problem, and replace the therms. NOBODY even returned the calls the same day. frantically called my dealer, who sent me five therms from out of state, overnight, and just talked me through the wiring to get them installed. turned out two of the old ones were actually 'blown up', with charring on the inside where the wrong connections were made. only needed two replaced, but ended up keeping and paying for all five to get some consistency, and to say thanks to my dealer, who went out of his way to get this working for me.. I wont even consider anybody else at this point, and some of these comments make me remember why. Cyknight.. really? I hope you get over whatever trauma or situation made you so bitter.. you obviously had something happen to you and I wish you the best. your sarcasm regarding my schedule and hour commitment, when you dont even know what I do, and what my commitments are, is really.. just bad. Dont judge others until you walk a mile in their shoes my friend. Anyway, another thanks to those who helped.. Steve

HI Again.. I don't really understand the hate with somebody being enthusiastic and wanting to be able to play with his system. I know this is a dealer environment, but the same way I wouldn't drive a car or a boat without some idea what do do in case something goes wrong, and some idea how to fix it, I don't see how I, or anybody, could have a system like this in their homes without having a basic understanding of how to troubleshoot it and fix it if it goes wrong. Sometimes there is a problem at midnight, unless you have some access to this, which one of the dealers here who have been so judgmental would be willing to take a call at midnight or 2am to fix something that is not working. to roll a truck at 2am because it is the only time I have available to have something installed or fixed? Anyway.. the driver approach was a no go. I could not get a HDMI output working to make a connection on the driver. I even tried using the copy of driverworks I found, but then realized that I would have to redo all the IR codes and existing programing if I were to use this in the system. since I couldnt find the original remote when I looked this seemed like a bad choice. THANK YOU to msgreenf. his suggestion of using the AV path driver was spot on. I was able to keep the previous driver and all the programing that went along with it and just make the connection to have it seen and it is now working. I appreciate it. Steve

hi, thanks for the (not so helpful) replies. Yes, I have a copy of pro, and yes, for the last ten years I have been using it. It is not that hard to get on the web, and there are many who use it. Yes, I have a dealer who knows this, and helps with major upgrades and issues. We have a collaborative effort now, and over the past ten years I have been the one mostly responsible for upgrading my system, including a complete rack rebuild three years ago. However, this has stumped both of us. Rather then have him waste more of his time trying to get this sorted, I have reached out to see if the group could help. Am I a trained dealer, no. am I pretty good at getting this programed.. I think I am. not to brag, but I know my limitations. I dont want to start a whole debate on who should be using this, and I will also point out that even with C4, there have been a relaxing of guidelines, the new version of composer for the user is leaps beyond what the old version would be able to do with programming.. And honestly, making connections in the pro version is the easiest part of the process of installing one of these systems. If somebody here who is a dealer and KNOWS how to get this working would like to remote in and program it for me, then I would be happy to have the help. If somebody can give me a few suggestions, that would be good too. But when this was put in it took hours of trial and error just to get it working the way I wanted with the system. the LD was the hardest part of the whole system at the time. I will happily pay somebody to do it if they know they can. I will be happy to post the model numbers of what I have if anybody wants to be the one to try this. thank you

would you do 350?

OK, so I have a home theater, and when the system was installed, I had a yamaha AVR, with RCA inputs for video and audio, which connected to the outputs on my laserdisc player. My dealer had to program a custom driver, and based it off a yamaha DVD player. it was the only way to get the C4 remote working to control transport on the LD player. fast forward, I recently updated my receiver to Anthem.. there is no more analog RCA inputs for video and audio. to get around this, I purchased a RCA to HDMI converter, and ran the input from the LD to the converter, then a HDMI into the receiver. I also upgraded from OS2 to OS3 during this time, and ended up replacing the 250 that acted as IR source in the theater room to a EA1. so now my issue is that I have no control over the LD. worse, it is not even listed as a source. Looking in composer I can see that the connection between the LD and the Anthem no longer exists, if it ever did in the first place, as the anthem does not have RCA in's that can be connected to the out on the yamaha LD in composer. I don't really know where to go from here. It seems as if the LD is just too old to be properly connected. Short of selecting it, then manually fiddling with inputs on the Anthem and transport controls on the LD. I cant find a driver to allow for the analog to digital conversion that is being done with a outside box now. I tried the generic HDMI driver, but this will not even show as a watch source in programming once it is put in. I have tried creating a new custom driver, but cant seem to create one that has HDMI as an output. I am appealing for any ideas how to get this working. steve

would still love to get on the list to test this.

I have purchased quite a number of used c4 items on ebay. I am lucky to have a dealer who does not mind tinkering, and does not really charge for stuff like this. Over the years, I have purchased multiple switches, especially the gen1 to match what was put into my system when it was first installed. no problems with any of them I have also purchased multiple audio matrix (I wish those were more reliable) to replace ones that have failed. even now I have two sitting in boxes in storage waiting for the inevitable day they need to be replaced again. As long as you know you might get burned, and can test the equipment right away, I think you will be OK.

OK, here are images of front and back on all of them. sorry it took so long, had a phone computer sync glitch .

Hi I am also interested in beta testing this... Steve