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snipboy

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  1. Well, I can confirm that this method works. I'd be curious to see how much life the OP got out of the remote since this post. This was six years ago. I've probably dropped my remote one too many times and it caused the original problem of loosing connections. The method to open the remote is very straightforward. Just take the back cover off, remove batteries, then there are two slots with tiny phillips head screws. Remove those, then gently pry it apart. There might be a few clips that break that hold the remote together. I broke two of them, but I was able to get it back together just fine and it feels solid in the hand. Hoping I get some more life out of this remote, but I am at 8 years of having mine now so each additional day is a bonus.
  2. Interested in your Motion sensors, dimmers and six button keypads.
  3. I am not sure what is up with that one fringe ATV I have. It is not on Wifi. Behavior is consistent enough to have figured out the sequence to get it right again though.
  4. I love my dealer, but I don't want him to burdened with having to constantly ping me whether or not I want/need an update. He's too busy. Can I get on this list for the new update coming up? I've noticed those fringe cases with Intrinsic tend to resolve themselves with a restart of the my C4 controller, and THEN, a restart of the Apple TV I am dealing with. One particular Apple TV in my house tends to have this fringe case happen a lot -- it's the most used Apple TV as well -- so, I'd guess it's the controller not keeping up with whatever I've just done to the home network.
  5. Note: I do not have any of the faceplates, extra buttons or the box. These were pulled from a model home. (3) C4-KC120277 with two big buttons, and two volume buttons. The big buttons are engraved with "Music" and "Mute", respectively. (2) C4-KC120277 with two big buttons, and two volume buttons. No engraving. Older Generation Switches: Note: I do not have any of the faceplates, extra buttons or the box. Not sure what OS these were on. (2) LSZ-3W1-A $25.00 USD, shipped Cont USA (1) C4-KP2-Z-A $30.00 USD, shipped Cont USA Matrix: Note: I have the original box. I believe this matrix was used in a model home and then put in storage (1) Control4 16 Channel Audio Matrix Switch C4-16S2-E-B Open to offers, trades and trades/cash. Looking for the following: EA-1 EA-3 CA-1 Second Gen dimmers Motion detectors Six button second gen switches in almond and black Almond buttons for second gen dimmers and switches Black buttons for six button second gen switches
  6. ah, ok. Bummer. Yeah, I wanted to go back 10 and forward 20.
  7. I've been happily using the driver for the last three weeks. Can you give me some guidance on how to program best for skipping ahead and going back in a video? Looking forward to automatic updates. Any word on when the next update is slated to be released?
  8. I am on OS2 and have no intention of going to OS3 until my HC250 dies. Hopefully a few more years til then!
  9. I am loving the Intrinsic driver. Fed up with trying to get the official stuff to work, and the unreliability of the IR driver.
  10. This is so unfortunate. I understand part of why us 2.10 users can't have the whole redesigned app, but not even getting part of it seems unfair. It's just an interface.
  11. I am pretty settled on having a solid 2.10 experience going forward. The only thing that might convince me to upgrade significantly would also be significantly more control over my platform.
  12. hmmmmmm. About to make a purchase here. One or the other.
  13. Can I use an HC-800 to upgrade the firmware on Embernet devices like I can with an HC-300 or HC-250?
  14. Fair point on the HC800. I really want the IR ports on the back of an HC250. And they are much cheaper than the IR extender hardware one can buy. My Mesh is currently pretty solid when it comes to responsiveness and reliability. The fanciest thing I do A/V wise is controlling TVs and ATVs with IR.
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