HRT

Yes, you need to switch it to wake in. then have it restart timer "morning wakeup" then go to the timer, and program the select station when timer expires.

Yeah, I meant rather than using the custom buttons on the remote just use the app/neeo/touchscreen and use the wake/sleep agent. Or program the . .. ... to the agent, although I know am not sure if he meant the . .. .. buttons on custom button agent. You are right there is no way to see the wake/sleep agent on the 250/260.

sleep/wake agent.

I also use my SR-250 all the time for lights while watching TV. I can quickly get a light dimmed/on/off or a scene turned on before I can get my phone out of my pocket.

they are not compatible with C4, it would be a separate system.

Pretty sure there is no way to accomplish this remotely. Was in a similar situation a few weeks ago, and tech support didn't have a way so I don't think you will be able to.

Kinda but not really the same thing at all as those "hidden lighting, security, comfort are still roomish based. You are correct it is a preference, but also easier for clients to grasp. You search all of your lighting rather than choosing a room then lighting. Rooms as A/V only makes way more sense. I never have to reteach clients the Elan app, the control4 app takes a few weeks/months before I stop getting all the silly questions.

It doesn't really work like that though. That's a feature only in 3.0, and can easily be defeated by unclicking all rooms and still has you putting the devices in there said rooms and on deeper dive shows the rooms things are in inside other rooms (locks and sensors etc). It makes way more sense if each user saw what you wanted them to see in the subsystems. So if you hit lighting you then choose a floor, area, room etc. Same if hit comfort or security. Then instead of a watch/listen you hit rooms and the rooms are only A/V selections. This is way more logical. Take a look at how the Elan app

There's no chance this would work with current technology. Let's say you are 12 feet from the "beacon" device in the room you want. You could also be 12 feet away from it in a room below, above, or to the side. This best solution is for the app to be sub system based and not room based which makes way more sense in other control systems that have it that way.

I wouldn't get your hopes up, these buttons have been asked to be removed for over 10 years from their touchscreens/ipads/phone interfaces also. Its a part of the proxy, so unless they make a new proxy they are there.

I worked on a take over job the last few weeks from URC to Control4. His previous two dealers? had installed somfy in some rooms and Rollease in the other. The bond obviously worked with the somfy, but did not work with the Rollease. The commands will learn in but they don't work. Think there is something else propitiatory going on inside their signal like a rolling garage code.

What's funny or sad whichever way you want to look at it is those buttons have never been needed in a system since the proxy came out! I guess one could argue for the CC button for the occasional use (95% of cable/sat boxes this is done through the menus and not by a command), but having the input button basically defeats the whole purpose of a control system/universal remote.

I added a liftmaster 850LM, which is a universal receiver for liftmaster transmitters in a way it wasn't quite designed for. I learned it to the buttons in my wifes car, and then used 2/3 outputs to go into contact inputs on my controller that trigger scenes. So in her car which has three built in buttons on just toggles the garage door, the second opens the garage door, unlocks the garage man door, unlocks the back door, and turns on lights if no lights are on already, and the third button closes the garage door locks the two doors and turns the house lights to away mode.

I think the bond can do rolling code RF (modern garage door) but only ones publicly available (somfy shades) so I don't think you are going to get it to work.

They did have a problem with the first run of rockers from the first run of the new APD/FPD dimmers. On our first few installs we had to swap them all out when the fixed their manufacturing issues (poor tolerance control on the machinary), but I've also noticed that some of the first run of dimmers cause even the newer plates to pop off and break based on a mixture of them in my own house with minimal pressing as 95% of our control is off of keypads.