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HRT

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Everything posted by HRT

  1. There are/were known issues with both control amp104/8 and the triad pamp8/4-100, so he could be talking about current gear.
  2. Personally we haven't pitched the on screen since you were forced to do thermostat scheduling through the on screen or C4 touchscreen (around 8/9 years ago?) Don't see the point when everyone has a phone in there hand and the remote in the other. If you don't have zigbee lighting or a sold zigbee mesh a few well placed CA-1's is a much better solution.
  3. haven't fully looked at this, but very cool idea. Question, are you altering the file name, creator, version, to reflect what the driver is and if you have different versions of it?
  4. This is only on the genie mini boxes. The main box allows full menu control, the reason why the mini boxes can't is they are technically tuners from the main box remotely accessed through the mini box. Once in the menus you are controlling the main box thus it doesn't work. If we have enough free emmiter ports we typically also put an emmiter on the mini boxes and have a button send the IR code to exit out of the menus and also use for power on/off in case it gets out of sync since the IP power codes can't work either.
  5. your best bet is to contact the dealer who installed/manages the control4 system and work with them. Either the option @lippavisual gave above (you give them the commands and they will follow his steps) or work with them to create the driver needed.
  6. I've woked with an HP printer that refused to connect to a wifi network until it as hardwired on that same network, then resetup as wifi. Could not explain it.
  7. You can have an experience button called auto snow melt. which on could turn a variable true and when off false. Set up scheduled events for on (4am) off (whatever time). Then under the 4am scheduled event if the variable is true turn on heater. At the off time turn heater off and reset variable to false so you will have to turn it back on if you want it to work the next morning. Having the time dynamic is a little harder, unless you have a weather driver that you could program off of the forecast. I am not aware of one, but if you had one you could do a number variable with each number being
  8. The solution is to get it RMA'd. I've seen this in on about 25% of them that we installed a few years back. Hopefully you are still under warranty if not the price to fix and have a 90 day warranty might not be as appealing as switching to the the Triad 24x24 or another brand matrix.
  9. two of those 8 watt bulbs adds up to only 16 watts. That's a pretty small LED load and often can result in dimming issues, flickering, buzzing, or bulbs not fully turning off. Do you have the neutral connected? Have you tried an APD dimmer set to reverse phase? You could install something like create a larger load for the dimmer. https://www.amazon.com/PCS-Load-Resistor-Lighting-ILR-10K/dp/B01ES0AYU8
  10. Here are some codes you can try for PIP. What do you mean with the code Tv? PIP On/OFF 0000 0068 0000 0010 005F 0018 002F 0018 002F 0018 002F 0018 0018 0018 002F 0018 002F 0018 002F 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 002F 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 002F 0018 0018 0018 002F 0303 PIP On/OFF 0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 02F6 PIP ON 0000 0067 0000 000D 0060 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0030
  11. While I don't disagree there are plenty of dealers who jump to quickly to the ask you dealer, the we can design and create a system for you over text without knowing anything about the house is also pretty useless. There seams to be a heavy user base here that think the majority of dealers are bad and only a handful are good when in reality its the opposite and or most guys get the bad dealer when they purely are looking for the cheapest quote. most of these new to control4 posts are sincere and are homeowners honestly looking for feedback/understanding/confidence. This one doesn't pass t
  12. Quick glance of that manual and it looks like you should be using a 0-10v dimmer. Also I enjoyed reading the applications the manufacturer designed this for.
  13. What type/brand/model are the transformers? This will help you decide what you need, as different transformers will need forward or reverse phase dimming. Also make sure you do not underload or overload the tape transformers, try to stick around 80% of maximum wattage for best results. If this was me I would be using APD dimmers, hardwired to the transformers as this will give you the most flexibility. Not really sure what you are going to do with the large transformer I haven't seen one that large for LED tape, you might have to use smaller and break up the loads.
  14. ok sounds good, either way if a builder asks one of his subs who could be a large chunk of his revenue to not work with someone due to a dispute they have to way that out. They made the right decision for them, by obviously not for you unfortunately.
  15. Ah that makes sense, I wouldn't blame them for refusing to work with you if you stiffed the builder. Why would they have confidence you would pay them, and why would they damage their relationship with the builder who provides them work? Your best bet is to find a control4 dealer who either needs the work or is new to the industry and needs to learn on the job troubleshooting. Or you could pay the builder and I would bet the a/v company would be told they are allowed to help you again.
  16. Looks like a mosfet failure, a dealer or homeowner with composer can see the error in the software. Push the tab on above the top button in on the right side of the dimmer and back out to reset it. If it keeps failing the dimmer is done if not and it works it's fine. What load is on this keypad? Did you recently change bulbs on that load? The reason the builder installed C4 is because that's what his CI installs. He probably wired your whole home for an a/v system (also paid for by the builder) which he thought the builder would allow him to pitch to you for a full C4 install. He p
  17. Yes, you need to switch it to wake in. then have it restart timer "morning wakeup" then go to the timer, and program the select station when timer expires.
  18. Yeah, I meant rather than using the custom buttons on the remote just use the app/neeo/touchscreen and use the wake/sleep agent. Or program the . .. ... to the agent, although I know am not sure if he meant the . .. .. buttons on custom button agent. You are right there is no way to see the wake/sleep agent on the 250/260.
  19. I also use my SR-250 all the time for lights while watching TV. I can quickly get a light dimmed/on/off or a scene turned on before I can get my phone out of my pocket.
  20. they are not compatible with C4, it would be a separate system.
  21. Pretty sure there is no way to accomplish this remotely. Was in a similar situation a few weeks ago, and tech support didn't have a way so I don't think you will be able to.
  22. Kinda but not really the same thing at all as those "hidden lighting, security, comfort are still roomish based. You are correct it is a preference, but also easier for clients to grasp. You search all of your lighting rather than choosing a room then lighting. Rooms as A/V only makes way more sense. I never have to reteach clients the Elan app, the control4 app takes a few weeks/months before I stop getting all the silly questions.
  23. It doesn't really work like that though. That's a feature only in 3.0, and can easily be defeated by unclicking all rooms and still has you putting the devices in there said rooms and on deeper dive shows the rooms things are in inside other rooms (locks and sensors etc). It makes way more sense if each user saw what you wanted them to see in the subsystems. So if you hit lighting you then choose a floor, area, room etc. Same if hit comfort or security. Then instead of a watch/listen you hit rooms and the rooms are only A/V selections. This is way more logical. Take a look at how the Elan app
  24. There's no chance this would work with current technology. Let's say you are 12 feet from the "beacon" device in the room you want. You could also be 12 feet away from it in a room below, above, or to the side. This best solution is for the app to be sub system based and not room based which makes way more sense in other control systems that have it that way.
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