HRT

4 hours ago, RyanE said:

Would save a lot of effort if we just closed up shop.

Why do anything?

There is still a good sized subset of customers that use the On Screen.  It's certainly a lot of work, but so is anything useful.

RyanE

Are the metrics you are using for the on screen projects that have it bound, or actual usage of the on screen in systems? I've done many take over jobs were the previous dealer sold 250's and ea1s for every TV and the client never once used it (didn't quite understand at the time if they would or what they were buying). I personally haven't used it as part of a design since the days when you could only schedule a thermostat from the OSD or a C4 Touchscreen.

This has been an on going issue for over a month with random channels. I know another dealer brought up no shoes radio didn't work on a private group and I was having problems with indie 1.0 channel 714. I went through and a bunch weren't working I don't use. indie 1.0 started working again for me recently.

11 hours ago, Cyknight said:

We've had no issue doing this - PROVIDED we had a separate mesh from the main one, with selected dimmers to create the mesh. IE have a 'dedicated' zserver/coordinator, ONLY for the blinds and the dimmers in use to create the mesh (of course, from a user perspective this is transparent, just wanted to point that out)

I do have one job they are apart of a large mesh and never had a problem? But the other three we did before we stopped selling the product all needed to be setup this way and it was a direct recommendation from the manufacturer and Control4.

From my experience with these shades at a few jobs, they are only 90% and up reliable if they are directly connected to a zserver. No going through nodes like dimmers. At one job I had to install a few CA-1's around the house just for the three rooms of shades and they haven't fell offline since (they were falling offline every time power went out or random events (had to factory and re identify every time to get them back into the system) The mesh was good and strong at the house as every light was on the system and spread out well.

There are/were known issues with both control amp104/8 and the triad pamp8/4-100, so he could be talking about current gear.

Personally we haven't pitched the on screen since you were forced to do thermostat scheduling through the on screen or C4 touchscreen (around 8/9 years ago?) Don't see the point when everyone has a phone in there hand and the remote in the other. If you don't have zigbee lighting or a sold zigbee mesh a few well placed CA-1's is a much better solution.

haven't fully looked at this, but very cool idea. Question, are you altering the file name, creator, version, to reflect what the driver is and if you have different versions of it?

2 hours ago, Jack_Ckun said:

dish has the better integration. the DIRECTV driver stops working once you get deep in to settings on the DTV receiver. This may have been fixed though.

This is only on the genie mini boxes. The main box allows full menu control, the reason why the mini boxes can't is they are technically tuners from the main box remotely accessed through the mini box. Once in the menus you are controlling the main box thus it doesn't work. If we have enough free emmiter ports we typically also put an emmiter on the mini boxes and have a button send the IR code to exit out of the menus and also use for power on/off in case it gets out of sync since the IP power codes can't work either.

On 2/24/2021 at 4:55 PM, kgav said:

Hi, I'm a software developer and I mostly work on I.T projects adding corporate network monitoring platforms .
I regularly get pulled into more AV centric installations and now I have been tasked with preparing a driver for an end client who uses Control 4 for his boardroom VC system. 
I'm hoping to create a new driver for a simple audio pre amplifier which responds to UDP strings. Mute and Volume controls. There is no existing driver for the unit.

I am proficient with Savant Profiler and Crestron driver creation but I don't have C4 experience yet so i need to get up to speed.
I would like to know what software tools I need to create a custom driver for the C4 platform. Please advise.

It looks like I need Composer Pro and DriverEditor software suites. Am I on the right path here please?:)

your best bet is to contact the dealer who installed/manages the control4 system and work with them. Either the option @lippavisual gave above (you give them the commands and they will follow his steps) or work with them to create the driver needed.

I've woked with an HP printer that refused to connect to a wifi network until it as hardwired on that same network, then resetup as wifi. Could not explain it.

You can have an experience button called auto snow melt. which on could turn a variable true and when off false. Set up scheduled events for on (4am) off (whatever time). Then under the 4am scheduled event if the variable is true turn on heater. At the off time turn heater off and reset variable to false so you will have to turn it back on if you want it to work the next morning. Having the time dynamic is a little harder, unless you have a weather driver that you could program off of the forecast. I am not aware of one, but if you had one you could do a number variable with each number being equal to an hour in middle of the night. So if forecast has snow starting at 3am you can make that 1 on the variable to start warming at 1am. Then make scheduled events for each hour checking first the variable that auto timer is on, then nest the is equal to that time and if so turn on heater.

I'd personally just have the auto button to start at 4am since that's probably enough time to melt the snow even if it started at 1am or so. 

2 hours ago, ruskibusiness said:

Has anyone found a solution for this? 

The solution is to get it RMA'd. I've seen this in on about 25% of them that we installed a few years back. Hopefully you are still under warranty if not the price to fix and have a 90 day warranty might not be as appealing as switching to the the Triad 24x24 or another brand matrix.

two of those 8 watt bulbs adds up to only 16 watts. That's a pretty small LED load and often can result in dimming issues, flickering, buzzing, or bulbs not fully turning off. Do you have the neutral connected? Have you tried an APD dimmer set to reverse phase? You could install something like create a larger load for the dimmer.

https://www.amazon.com/PCS-Load-Resistor-Lighting-ILR-10K/dp/B01ES0AYU8

Here are some codes you can try for PIP. What do you mean with the code Tv?

PIP On/OFF

0000 0068 0000 0010 005F 0018 002F 0018 002F 0018 002F 0018 0018 0018 002F 0018 002F 0018 002F 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 002F 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 002F 0018 0018 0018 002F 0303

PIP On/OFF

0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 02F6

PIP ON

0000 0067 0000 000D 0060 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 03DA

PIP OFF

0000 0067 0000 0010 0060 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0018 0018 0030 0018 0018 0018 0030 031A

On 1/19/2021 at 8:25 AM, therockhr said:

The "you need to ask your dealer" post is the most useless kind of post on this board. The poster said they are talking to a dealer. They came on here asking for other opinions. I dont know about you all but I wouldnt just trust the opinion of a couple of dealers only just because they were local to me.

While I don't disagree there are plenty of dealers who jump to quickly to the ask you dealer, the we can design and create a system for you over text without knowing anything about the house is also pretty useless. There seams to be a heavy user base here that think the majority of dealers are bad and only a handful are good when in reality its the opposite and or most guys get the bad dealer when they purely are looking for the cheapest quote.

most of these new to control4 posts are sincere and are homeowners honestly looking for feedback/understanding/confidence. This one doesn't pass the smell test by any means. While I am sure there are dealers willing to install/program stuff they didn't spec or wire, multiple? If he talked to multiple why did he not ask them any of these questions? Why no get a quote from a dealer before deciding to buy it all on your own (probably because all the dealers he talked to knew he wasn't going to buy from them so they didn't give him a shopping list). Which explains why he is asking the public to recommend not just how to design it all, but model numbers so they can slowly wait for the perfect used price on ebay for each item. Just in an initial consult with a dealer a dealer would have told him to tidal is native and spotify is spotify connect and is ok. To me based on my intuition this guy hasn't talked to any dealers, is a DIY enthusiast and wants to step up to a better system, plans to buy everything himself, install everything himself, and eventual pay an remote programmer to set it all up for him (being generous on this one). WHICH IS FINE if that's what he wants to do, but most dealers will respond accordingly and defend their means of work asking him to discuss this with a dealer and not offer help.

14 hours ago, rf9000 said:

All I did was add up the length of LED strips in the master closet that I'm using, multiply that by the wattage per foot that the strip indicates, and that gives me my total wattage. I then selected a transformer based on this. Right now the system is setup where the transformer will plug into a regular outlet, that outlet will be controlled by an APD. This should work I'm assuming? The transformer I have is actually a 320watt. It is the following:

https://www.meanwell.com/Upload/PDF/HLG-320H/HLG-320H-SPEC.PDF

Quick glance of that manual and it looks like you should be using a 0-10v dimmer.

Also I enjoyed reading the applications the manufacturer designed this for.

What type/brand/model are the transformers? This will help you decide what you need, as different transformers will need forward or reverse phase dimming. Also make sure you do not underload or overload the tape transformers, try to stick around 80% of maximum wattage for best results. If this was me I would be using APD dimmers, hardwired to the transformers as this will give you the most flexibility.  Not really sure what you are going to do with the large transformer I haven't seen one that large for LED tape, you might have to use smaller and break up the loads.

4 hours ago, SRQUser said:

Nope - other way around - Builder & Dealer have both been paid.  Builder owes me a bunch.  

ok sounds good, either way if a builder asks one of his subs who could be a large chunk of his revenue to not work with someone due to a dispute they have to way that out. They made the right decision for them, by obviously not for you unfortunately.

Ah that makes sense, I wouldn't blame them for refusing to work with you if you stiffed the builder. Why would they have confidence you would pay them, and why would they damage their relationship with the builder who provides them work?

Your best bet is to find a control4 dealer who either needs the work or is new to the industry and needs to learn on the job troubleshooting. Or you could pay the builder and I would bet the a/v company would be told they are allowed to help you again.

Looks like a mosfet failure, a dealer or homeowner with composer can see the error in the software. Push the tab on above the top button in on the right side of the dimmer and back out to reset it. If it keeps failing the dimmer is done if not and it works it's fine. What load is on this keypad? Did you recently change bulbs on that load?

The reason the builder installed C4 is because that's what his CI installs. He probably wired your whole home for an a/v system (also paid for by the builder) which he thought the builder would allow him to pitch to you for a full C4 install. He probably has a small package (the lights in your case) that come basic to his homes. Since as you say the builder stiffed the dealer, he felt there was no upside to continue working with the builder/you. Tough to have other guys come in, as yes why would they service something the A. didn't install or warranty. b. have no upside in installing new products as it seams like you have other DIY options for your locks/thermostats/tv's.

Yes, you need to switch it to wake in.

then have it restart timer "morning wakeup"

then go to the timer, and program the select station when timer expires.

3 hours ago, South Africa C4 user said:

As long as you have the Neeo (I suspect) although I have not tried this on an SR260

Yeah, I meant rather than using the custom buttons on the remote just use the app/neeo/touchscreen and use the wake/sleep agent. Or program the . .. ... to the agent, although I know am not sure if he meant the . .. .. buttons on custom button agent.

You are right there is no way to see the wake/sleep agent on the 250/260.

19 hours ago, Neo1738 said:

I programmed custom buttons to timers for sleep timers; 15 min, 30 min, 60 min, repress resets timer. Is there a better way to free those up?

sleep/wake agent.

I also use my SR-250 all the time for lights while watching TV. I can quickly get a light dimmed/on/off or a scene turned on before I can get my phone out of my pocket.

they are not compatible with C4, it would be a separate system.