AshMania

Good to know but also not . Thanks

Do agree with UniFi being a closed system, but have you tried this? https://github.com/keshavdv/unifi-cam-proxy?tab=readme-ov-file#readme or https://pypi.org/project/unifi-cam-proxy/

Curious - why the switch from C4 doorbell to Unifi Access?

Shelly Plus 2PM is the route I was initially planning to go, but the Sonoff DUALR3 was cheaper (which would be non-trivial as I multiply the number of shades I want to control), so figured I would find out. Thanks for the confirmation.

Hi @alanchow / @Andrew luecke Does the driver support motor mode for DUALR3 (for shade control)? The post above and online driver webpage says DUALR3 switch mode is only supported - just wanted to confirm... Thanks

Hi all I have a Screen Innovations projection screen that uses a Somfy RS485 based motor (not RTS or Zigbee based). In addition, I have some Somfy Glydea DCT drapery shade motors. What is the best way to integrate both of them into Control4? I am assuming Bond Bridge is out because it only works with Somfy RTS shade motors. I was thinking that I could use Somfy's "Control4 to Digital Motor Interface (DMI)" as that should work with both my screen & curtains and I won't have mix different technologies/products. https://www.somfypro.com/products/-/e-cat/1870533/Control4_to_Digital_Motor_Interface Does anyone have any experience with integrating that module into C4? Thanks

I am using https://drivercentral.io/platforms/control4-drivers/audio-video/google-android-control4-driver-chowmain/ for my Formuler GTV box - it works majority of the time but there are occasional times I need to restart the IPTV box as it gets unresponsive. It should work on the Formuler Z line of boxes too...

I too am using the HSIM panel and its been for the most part (had a nasty issue with security wireless signals being garbled due to my AVPro video switch - that took many hours and dollars to troubleshoot). But if given an option to start afresh, I would go for DSC over Honeywell...

Funny, I was just looking into this last week - thanks for providing the links as I only found the BestBuy link. @ashwinmj - AFAIK, the fingerprint / bluetooth versions will work with Apple HomeKit, just not Apple Home Keys and the - is that correct? And isn't Bluetooth in all versions of the lock, even if it isn't explicitly advertised? And, what is the general consensus in terms of security / convenience of fingerprint vs Apple Home Keys. My instinct says fingerprint is safer, requires no hardware to be on you - but in my experience, its not 100% reliable on locks (especially those exposed to the elements outdoor).

FWIW - Not related directly to the exact topic of the OP... But I use the following MOCA adapter (goCoax MoCA 2.5 Adapter with 2.5GbE Ethernet Port) to ensure that the FIOS cable boxes are able to get the EPG properly. It has been rock solid and definitely a huge benefit by not having to pay the rental fee on the FIOS Gateway and my UDM Pro is the only one giving out DHCP addresses.

I already have an external antenna for the security panel.

No

Hi all, I am in the process of adding a AVPro based video distribution solution to my sister's home. But it seems like the video solution (HDBaseT transmitters) seem to be interfering with my Honeywell Ademco (Vista 128BP version 4.4) based security system. Basically, most of my wireless security devices (motion sensors, glass break sensors) seem to fault and the security panel cannot be armed until I bypass them. This doesn't happen immediately and takes a few hours to manifest and also a few hours to be operational once i power off the video setup. Another thing I noticed is that the specific devices that fault are also are not the same each time - they seem to be randomly affected. And just last week I did notice some wired security devices (door/window contacts) also exhibit similar issues. So, I am assuming that its some kind of electromagnetic interference (EMI) that is causing this as the AV rack is in the same closet which houses the security panel and the security antenna (both are on the wall about 2-3 feet away). The funny thing is that I have a similar setup but with a DSC panel in my home and have no issues. And FYI - I had earlier tried this with a Binary switch as well with the same results. I have also tried grounding the AV rack itself, even bought some faraday cage type fabric to cover the HDBaseT receivers but no luck. Any thoughts on what could be the source of my issues and potential options to remediate? Thanks in advance

I think I am using the Motorola QIP-6416-1 IR-based driver to control the Verizon TV One. Would prefer an IP-based driver, but it has been working for the most part.

Hi - would love to know as well...