dcovach

The way this was taught in dealer training is counter intuitive but it works very well. I'm sure programming can be done a few other ways and it would still work. Especially if you want conditions added. The basic concept is the TIMER turns OFF the light (when it expires). Make sure you have the Timer Agent installed. Set your timer agent to however many minutes you want to allow the light to still be on when NO MOTION is sensed. Programming works like this: When motion is sensed, STOP timer, turn light on. When motion stops sensing, START Timer. The timer is now counting down until motion is sensed again. If it senses motion again, it starts at the beginning of the countdown. When Timer EXPIRES, turn off light.

It's supposed to. The only reviews I've heard about not working with a gas fireplace is from an amazon review in Dec 2018. Alexa rolled out an update and would not connect with bond after. This is obviously not directly related to a gas fireplace. I have yet to try this but will try to post my results once I have time to integrate my own fireplace.

You can make bindings with the Z2IO and the newer C4 Temperature Display driver but this does not work with the Cardaccess unit. You have to do programming with the variables and the custom temperature display driver (Yatun). I can't speak for the driver above that was posted but the programming method works with Yatun's driver.

That's ok for Memory usage. A high CPU usage would be concerning.

In your scenario I couldn't tell you for sure the strongest zigbee channel that would work best without interfering with the Wi-Fi network. 25 is the weakest but least likely to interfere. I use this in almost all cases and it works well even when stretching the max recommended distances between zigbee devices. As long as they're placed strategically with no major barriers or interferences. Try leaving the network and id the remote again right beside the controller. I think the routing path will change and hopefully removes any hops for the test. You would obviously see a difference if you filled the gaps in the system with more zigbee devices that repeat. E.g. c4 lighting

your dealer can do it but you can also ask to purchase a licence for composer home edition (HE). With it, you can do all sorts of programming including extending the button lights on the c4 remote to stay on longer.

composer he

Hopefully its announced here but you can also check the website.

What would you like help with? Feel free to send me a PM.

By your description, it doesn't sound like the optimal setup for the router. Unless there's a need for vlan's (zones), only the primary switch should be the connected to the router. The SX24P is managed so let it do its job as a primary. All the rest of the switches and waps should be connected to the primary switch. A Flat network is the best option.

I don't really know exactly what that all means..... I also still don't know which modem you have. Some ISP modem/router combo's need certain features enabled for phone/cable tv while most others allow you the ability to turn off all commercial features (DHCP server, firewall, etc...). <--recommended 100% if you can. Best setup is this. Modem <-- router <-- primary switch <-- all other switches and the rest of the ethernet cables. POE devices connected to POE switch (obviously) Latest firmware on all pakedge gear is a good idea. There's no reason why you can't use pakedge, even if you aren't a dealer. You just won't get support from C4. It's not rocket science to set up pakedge but it also doesn't take rocket science to set up the network wrong either.

What modem/router combo unit are you using? Has it been "dumbed" down to just a modem?

Contrary to your last statement, network setup is possibly the most related to your problems. Maybe your networking skills are top notch.... I have no idea. I'm just sensing network issues. You really need to start there before moving forward. Did you power cycle each device after you reserved the ip addresses in the router? How are all the switches connected? Star topology? Daisy Chain? Hopefully no "loops". For the devices that need to be static (although not recommended for all devices) allow for a range of static ip's in the router and start the dhcp server range above it. DHCP reserve important devices and power cycle them right after. Make sure to adjust the transmission power on your waps so you achieve -70 db at the midpoint. The NK1 is just for managing all your waps in one place instead of logging into them individually.

I have an account with them. Can order and ship direct if interested.

I want an EA-10