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mstafford388

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mstafford388 last won the day on March 21 2019

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About mstafford388

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    AVLeadTech
  • Birthday 01/02/1983

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  1. I haven't messed around with macros enough in the .xml to help you. sorry.
  2. No, easiest way to do it is right in driver wizard in composer since it's IR.
  3. In the driver for the android box switch it to use on/off macros instead of discreet on/off. then in the on macro in send some arbitrary command (cancel/menu/whatever), then a delay, then the power on command.
  4. This is what we use. We don't buy them there, just the first link I saw when I google it. https://www.alarmliquidators.com/honeywell-958-overhead-garage-door-hardwired-sensor-with-magnet/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp958&sc_intid=958&gclid=CjwKCAjwi_b3BRAGEiwAemPNU4tZAVeySddEUaeUcqOLwBVxwQxOU8e7eub7TvDsnADEaf2udhh71BoCWq0QAvD_BwE Also, I would definitely NOT buy a MyQ if you don't need to. Integration is a bit of a mess at the moment.
  5. No they are just generic garage door contacts, but they would need to be tied into the Control4 system so you would need a dealer for that. Or you could go with a tilt sensor but I prefer the contact option...no batteries.
  6. A dealer would need to get access to your network to check if it shows up in system manager. Just FYI.
  7. The Control4 z-wave stuff is very product specific so no surprise you didn't have any luck identifying a lock with a driver for a different lock.
  8. I'd be curious to know if that HC800 shows up in system manager. If it does it could be something silly like director is disabled. If you see it on the network but it doesn't show up in system manager it's likely dead.
  9. Yeah it's just an internal check in composer that you aren't overloading the dimmer modules. Overestimating may set off false flags that you have too much wattage on the module when you actually don't. Underestimating may mean you end up physically putting more wattage on that module than it can handle.
  10. Yeah 0-10v is not designed to even power anything, it's a low voltage control module for 0-10v specific fixtures that are powered separately, typically with high voltage, then controlled by the 0-10v input to a 0-10v driver for the fixture (or 1-10v for some fixtures). The benefit is a much cleaner dimming curve, and dimming down to or close to 0%. Low voltage LED tape is typically 12v or 24v and can be dimmed with either a dimmable power supply for the tape lights where you would dim the high voltage coming in, or a 12/24v driver that is controllable.
  11. One cool thing about the Neeo is if you leave the receiver available under the watch menu choosing watch -> receiver will give you the sound modes on the Neeo screen but leave the rest of the remote controlling the source you were on. At least that's how it works with Anthem and Sony. Sorry Mitch I know that probably doesn't help your motivation to make a driver 😜
  12. that button is actually mapped to "recall" in the driver
  13. I'd personally still use wire nuts. Beanies would save you a little time but you're definitely not getting as much copper on copper. Not worth saving 30 minutes, you only have to do it once just do it right.
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