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FlyingDiver

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  1. You should generally do scenes on the Lutron side, so that all the changes occur at the same time.
  2. FlyingDiver

    Bond Pro

    I 3-D printed a wall mount for my non-Pro. But the hanging cord is annoying.
  3. FlyingDiver

    Bond Pro

    One Bond Pro covers the whole house? Or do you have multiple units? I have a non-Pro unit which works OK, but doesn't have anywhere near the range to cover the house.
  4. FYI - The non-Pro Bond Bridge does IR as well as RF.
  5. I wouldn't put high current devices like amps or the AVR into a battery backup plug, but I might put them into a surge protector plug. On the battery plugs I would put the C4 controller, network switches, router, modem, and if you have a NAS or something like that, put it in there too. But not audio, TV, etc. You can use a plug strip if you need to.
  6. I have one of these in my rack: https://www.tripplite.com/smartpro-lcd-120v-1500va-900w-line-interactive-ups-avr-2u-rack-tower-lcd-usb-db9-serial-8-outlets~smart1500lcd
  7. Well, I did say in the first post that I was going to get an SR-260.
  8. Yeah, I meant EA-3. Typo. I'll look into the EA-3. I can see where there might be some value there.
  9. What's the minimum I need? Need to control a Sony XBR TV, Denon AVR, AppleTV, Sony Blu-Ray player. I have more, but that's the minimum for trying it out. Oh, needs to work with my Lutron RRa2 system. I figure it's an EA-1 and an SR-260. Plus Composer Home. I'm looking at buying some used hardware on eBay and paying one of the remote programmers from here on the forums to do the setup. What are the real differences between the EA-1 and EA-2? It's really hard to tell looking at the product sheets. There's no comparison tool on the website - I guess they figure that's the dealer's job to explain. Oh, and the EA units have one HDMI out and none in? So the default operation is that they set the AVR to the C4 input to put the menus up, then switch to another input (in the AVR) for the activity? Thanks!
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