C4 User

I ran 16/4 to my windows, not Cat6. but after choosing QMotion for shades, I do wish I would have used Cat6 as it would have been cleaner. With regard to how to run the wire to the window during pre-construction, you have to decide if you are going with inside or outside mounted shades. We went with inside, so I ran the wire through the framing coming out the top sill 2” from the window and 2” from the right side finished framing (so the finished drywall). So you know, when you use QMotion in zigbee control configuration, all you need is power to the shade and for this, QMotion uses 3 of the Cat6 wires for + and 3 for - low voltage power. For this you can use either Cat6, Cat5e or even 16/2. It just depends on how universal you want your pre-wiring to be. Again, if it was me, I would decide on the shades now and wire for them. Another trick I did. For all TV and computer locations, I ran an electrical outlet back to a switch in my AV closet. I then later rewired that switch to my UPS. Now all tv’s and related equipment is on the UPS and nothing flashes when power flickers. And, I do not need UPS in all my rooms.

Regarding Qmotion, my experience is they need to be on a UPS (battery) so they do not lose power. I have not had to make any adjustments since putting them on the UPS over 18 months ago.

One thing I did on a new build a few years ago was to run a 2” conduit from my AV Closet to just about every wall I thought I might want future access. In two years, I have used them a few times, so paid for them all more than once. In some rooms, I wasn’t sure which wall the wife would want a future tv on, so I ran conduit to multiple walls. My only other comment is you can’t have too many in-ceiling speakers. And home-run them all. Then you can chose how to zone them later. For any walls that had no access from attic (i.e. second floor above), I ran Cat6 if I even thought I might want a future panel of any sort. So final comment, future proof your new build by building in future access and then don’t stress trying to get it all correct now.

I could and I do. But with the new vertical strip, it is nice to be able to plug each device into the outlet closet to the device and not necessarily in the outlet reboot order. Plus I know this relatively simple programming to achieve, so worth asking for.

What I am saying is it would be very helpful to be able to change the order of reboot.

I know this is off topic, but some of you Snap dealers should push them to add a feature that allows users to change the order of outlet booting. I have everything running on UPS’s, so do not like to power cycle just to change the order of my plugs/outlets as I refine the rebooting sequence of my system. And in reality, only a few devices need to be in the reboot loop. Once modems, routers, switches, WAP’s and controllers are rebooted, everything else can be restarted as needed by C4.

Depending on how you are going to use it, check out the new vertices strip units WattBox just released. I have one, but have not yet installed it in my rack. I expect it to help clean up some of my power cable management and it has like 18 outlets

Forgive me if this has been answered. I searched but couldn’t find. I have an Axis P3707E camera, which has 4 lens in one camera. Is there a driver that gives me access to the 4 separate images? Or does anyone know how to identify the individual images of the camera in the generic C4 camera driver? Thanks in advance.

Please do let us know what functionality is available with Wolf Ovens and Subzero Rerig. So far I have held off integrating, but if the functionality is there to start the oven, it might be worth it. Thank you.

Proceed at your own risk here, but: The 4 black wires that are twisted together are the Black Line In / Hot leads. The 4 white wires that are twisted together are the White Neutral in. The bare copper wires in back that are twisted together are the ground. And whichever black wire runs to your fan is the lead for the RED wire coming off the fan switch.

Can you clarify what wires are in the switch box itself? I assume you have Switched LOAD and NEUTRAL wires running from the switch box to the fan. Do you also have a LOAD, NEUTRAL and GROUND coming from your breaker into the switch box?

Search Matterlink on this forum. There is a C4 driver available.

I recommend you review the AudioControl matrix amps. You will not need the C4 audio matrix with these amps.

Mine too. Has for long time. Can’t recall when it started.

AppleMusic.