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C4 User

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    Control4 End User

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  1. Although I can’t imagine having to do this again in 3.1, years ago I had to rebuild my entire project from scratch with my dealer. Apparently the project got corrupted through years of upgrades and updates. Keep in mind this project first started out in 2007 and composer 1.6 or something like that. I do not remember the version where rebuild was necessary and i do not live in that house any longer. Prior to rebuilding the project, my dealer sent it off to C4 so they could attempt to do their magic on it - which did not work. Although I doubt you need to rebuild your project, you may want to ask your dealer to send a copy of the project to C4 and have them look for some corrupt lines of code that might be causing this to happen. Good luck.
  2. I am no expert and I am certainly not trying to offend anyone’s business model, but I couldn’t agree more that we (the customer) need an improved driver model and that the entire C4 echo system (C4, Dealers, Developers) could benefit from the same. I am no expert on how it works, but I would personally like the Apple model. All developers pay C4 a fee to review and certify their drivers and then make them available to all dealers and us customers at whatever fee the developer sets - which will also need to include C4’s fee. The dealer would get their fee from the install and any subsequent programming services. All drivers would then be controlled and verified by C4 and all would be downloaded from the C4 controlled database and all billing (whether free, monthly, or one-time fee) would be automatic through C4 similar to how it is with Apple. Developers could then offer a basic driver for free, and charge for upgrade features. C4, dealers and developers should love this model as it could improve distribution and recurring revenue. It may even encourage more advance driver development.
  3. My network knowledge is also very limited, but I do know my router (SonicWall) has the ability to isolate and report network traffic by device (IP address or MACiD), by protocol, and even by port. This capability has saved me many times when trying to isolate network related issues in my system. I assume there may be some app out there that offers the same reporting capabilities. If so, you can easily isolate if this is some type of a port, protocol, or other network issue.
  4. My first C4 setup had over 150 devices on one mesh running one of the original controllers. In fact, initially it was the HC1000. All with no problems. My current C4 setup (EA5) only has about 50 devices on it right now, but will eventually have 3 or 4 times that when done. If all devices remain responsive, can anyone give feedback on benefits of multiple meshes?
  5. Reset the switches by tapping bottom button 15 times.
  6. I guess I am not sure what your setup is. My assumption is you have a line coming into the SS box and you are attempting to install a C4 switch in that box. If so, I think the best option for you is to mount a standard outdoor electrical box with door to the side of your SS box and install the C4 switch in it. I do not know of any compatible outdoor rated switches that would not need an enclosure.
  7. Add a Plastic Outdoor Outlet box to the side of your SS enclosure and put the C4 switch in it.
  8. I do not have one, but if you search Amazon for Electric Natural Gas Valve and you will find many options.
  9. The explosion proof requirements of working with gas vs water is an entirely different world, but certainly doable. The contacts would need to be hermetically sealed. That said, there are electronically controlled gas valves for both on/off and variable flow (i.e. gas fire pit) applications available. If you are concerned about your grill and/or fire pit, both could be integrated with such a valve and controlled by C4 to ensure they are off at night, and to even send a notice if left on for too long.
  10. I have Origin Acoustics throughout my house and love them.
  11. I do not have experience with the other systems you mentioned above, but I have been using C4 since 2008 for AV, lighting, security, cameras, audio (16 zones), door locks and shades. I never did integrate by HVAC or Sprinklers into C4 only because I have remote access to both and I seldom if ever change my programming. In 2008, it took some work to get the system fully up and running. When I built a new house 3 years ago, the full integration was very smooth, and in both houses, the systems have been rock solid once up and programmed to my liking. I personally would not be worried about the fact that you need a dealer to integrate new hardware. The fact is you can install the new hardware yourself and there a plenty of high quality “remote” dealers on this forum that will integrate the hardware into your system. Once integrated, you can do most of the programming yourself. But there are some programming or setup features you will want to use a dealer for so I would budget for 2 hours of remote maintenance per month for the first year as you tweak your system to your liking. Once your system is up and running the way you want it, you will only need maybe 2-4 hours of dealer maintenance per year to install updates (only if you want). Keep in mind that updates add new features or capabilities or fix stability issues which you do not need if your system is functioning well. I know some users that never install updates. I will add that I keep my entire system include network on UPS. This includes my cameras, shades (hardwired), security, AV and audio. My system never reboots unless I have updates installed or make other changes which is rare. Since you are building a new house, I would recommend building an AV closet that is cooled or well ventilated depending on amount of gear you put in it. In my house, everything is wired out of my AV closet meaning all hardware is in the closet. Good luck and have fun.
  12. Command is executed upon release rather than upon press.
  13. I ran 16/4 to my windows, not Cat6. but after choosing QMotion for shades, I do wish I would have used Cat6 as it would have been cleaner. With regard to how to run the wire to the window during pre-construction, you have to decide if you are going with inside or outside mounted shades. We went with inside, so I ran the wire through the framing coming out the top sill 2” from the window and 2” from the right side finished framing (so the finished drywall). So you know, when you use QMotion in zigbee control configuration, all you need is power to the shade and for this, QMotion uses 3 of the Cat6 wires for + and 3 for - low voltage power. For this you can use either Cat6, Cat5e or even 16/2. It just depends on how universal you want your pre-wiring to be. Again, if it was me, I would decide on the shades now and wire for them. Another trick I did. For all TV and computer locations, I ran an electrical outlet back to a switch in my AV closet. I then later rewired that switch to my UPS. Now all tv’s and related equipment is on the UPS and nothing flashes when power flickers. And, I do not need UPS in all my rooms.
  14. Regarding Qmotion, my experience is they need to be on a UPS (battery) so they do not lose power. I have not had to make any adjustments since putting them on the UPS over 18 months ago.
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