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About dman000000

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    Control4 End User

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  1. I am considering getting a couple of the NYCE tilt sensors for my garage doors but am curious to understand how they connect to the controller. Specifically, do they require communication directly back to the controller or can they join through/ benefit from the mesh created by the light switches? My garage doors are pretty far from the controller but I've got plenty of switches in every room...
  2. I have 37 keypad dimmers in various button configurations that I would like to get custom engraved. I've got the Engraving Order Report ready to go so am looking for someone willing to put in the order for me. PM me if interested (and with pricing). On a related note, I have a ton of white keypad buttons in various sizes (and will have a ton more after getting mine engraved). Assuming the engraved packs come with the top and bottom bars, I'll have complete color change packs (all in white). PM me if you are interested in any.
  3. I am still using the Wink BETA for my Ring and MyQ needs but I read on here somewhere that I need to get off of that driver, especially when upgrading to 2.10. Looking to acquire the driver only (no install needed), ideally a resell from someone no longer needing it...assuming that type of thing is allowed. PM me
  4. Off the main point of the thread but thought i'd share my experience on LED filament bulbs since Cyknight commented on the flakiness. I've got probably ~30 dimmable ones of different shapes (and brands) in the house on various fixtures. I have definitely had some flakiness on a few random brands that I bought from Amazon but I've been really happy with the Hyperikon brand. Good quality bulbs and nice light output. And good prices (I bought mine direct from their website). I had an issue with one of their bulbs flickering and they replaced it under the 5 year warranty with no hassle at all.
  5. dman000000


  6. Deadbolt locks on my list of things to buy
  7. Yes on the contents of the IDP10B-ZP. It is the full kit so all parts are included and in BNIB condition.
  8. In combination with your curtains, i could see this solution cutting down on that bit of light that currently gets through. My biggest hesitation in recommending for all applications stems around the haziness that i mentioned in my description. When they are powered on, they are not 100% clear (I want to say they allow ~90% of light to pass through). This would be a big issue for me in our primary living areas as we have some nice views that I feel would be significantly affected by the haze. Also, they don't consume a ton of power but there is also the consideration that clear means ON...so having them in a main living area means having them on all the time during the day. Just feels a bit wasteful.
  9. I have the SmartTint film installed on the windows in our master bath and it works great. I have the low voltage option without dimming. Control through the system is handled via the transformer being plugged into a controllable outlet plug. It changes from opaque to clear pretty instantaneously. High cool factor but not cheap. Note that there is definitely a tradeoff with these between how dark they get when "off" and how transparent they are when "on". I have the white which gets pretty clear when on (but certainly not perfectly transparent, there is a noticeable haze versus a clear window) and it is pretty opaque when off (but nowhere near blackout shades). If you want darker when they are off then you IMO lose a lot of transparency when they are on.
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