Brownbatsbreath

Those are line voltage sensors. Specs I found say 220-240vac To do what you’re asking about you’d want to use low voltage sensors. So typically say 24vdc sensors with a power supply to power them. When the sensors sense motion, they’ll send voltage back to the IO input. Then you program off that. To use your sensors you’d have to power them all with line voltage, then have the line voltage output run to a relay that accepts 240v input power to switch. Then run your Low voltage wiring through that. Considerably more material and different wiring requirements.

If your lights are 12v, you’ll need a transformer. If you want to dim it, consult with the transformer manufacturer on the best type of dimmer to use and install the corresponding C4 dimmer. Please note, 0-10v dimmers are made for sending a 0-10v dimming signal to drivers/ballasts that are made to accept that signal. They are NOT meant to supply voltage directly to your low voltage light fixtures.

If you’re sure it worked at one time, and you’re sure that one of the black wires on the right that are spliced together is the switch leg to the porch light, then that switch is not the switch physically controlling that load. Do you have a switch in another location that could possibly be physically controlling that load? Hidden somewhere? Any Panelized? A switch somewhere you don’t know what it does?

I think the black and white on the green connector are a bit of a red herring at the moment. If the camera worked at one time, they have nothing to do with your problem, nobody snuck up to your camera and pulled a pair out and stuck it on that connector. Looks like you have Ethernet and power Siamese cable as other have pointed out. As Pounce pointed out it kind of looks like all your pairs are in the connector, although hard to say for sure from the picture. Your test is indicating possible issues on 3 of the conductors. That’s your issue. Need to inspect the connectors closely. If this is a direct cable to the rack, then inspect both ends, of it hits a patch panel or anything along the way, need to inspect connections there. Could also be a damaged cable somewhere along the way, behind the wall or in the attic. Contrary to popular belief, if a cable tests fine when it’s installed, doesn’t mean it can’t fail later if it’s poorly installed... catches on a nail, catching on a truss plate, pulled with too much force, installer nicking conductors when stripping insulation. Wire expands and contracts over time.

No smoke and mirrors, just the faint glow of embernet. So dead after 1.7 I believe.

According to USDA Market News Reports, the average retail mark-up on a head of iceberg lettuce in major US cities is 217%. I’m really really sorry, I was curious after reading that.

Nothing against you wanting to get gear for cheap. Who doesn’t want that? You’ll just have to put in the time negotiating and comparing dealer’s prices against each other. I do however have to roll my eyes at the ‘marginal’ comment. I mean really? Don’t start commenting how you think a business model should be structured, then make a comment like that. No expense is ‘marginal’ when you run a business. Overhead? Insurance? Training? Employees? Tools? Software? K-Cups? Pens? TeamViewer license? Marginal! Again, you wanna fish for someone to sell you gear on the cheap, go for it, I’d do the same. As others have said, it’s been done with great results. Just leave it at that then, no need to wow us with your business acumen and percent signs.

I feel like every Control4 OS release has someone in the first week saying “app is so much faster” Then a few weeks later someone saying their app is super slow. You can’t discount individual networks and phone configurations in all of this. I have a control 4 system on 2.9 and a Crestron system on the same network. Apps for both open under a second and a half on my iPhone X locally. Between 2.53 and 2.9 I’ve never seen the local connection take longer then 2 seconds. This is all using the Built in garbage ISP router as well.

You can wire the relay in parallel with the switch. You can still use the switch that way. The only catch is obviously you can’t use both at the same time. So if you turn the fp on with the switch, you can’t turn it off with the relay. Same with the relay, if it was turned on with the relay the switch will have no effect until the relay is turned off.

What country are you in? Unless it has recently changed the NEC only requires one switch per room, not for each entrance to a room. The exception being the top and bottom of staircases. If you’re using aux dimmers, just have them wired as regular 3 ways. Then you have all the options without really compromising on design. Code doesn’t ultimately say what you have to use as a switch. You can use panelized with low volt keypads and meet code. Typically if you have a working UL listed solution that turns the lights on and off, you meet code. I say typically because the local inspector always has the final say and there’s quite a few who don’t understand lighting controls.

I dunno, I hate voice control. Just seems annoying and a little baggy to be yelling out random commands. I won an Alexa at a raffle years ago. It’s on my fridge, I use it for kitchen timers, and sometimes I ask what the temperature is.

Sorry for your loss. This was a nice tribute to post. Cheers.

Did anyone read Snap’s twitter post on the matter? It has the bigger truck line but also adds “Grow your business, get rewarded. Find out how feb 24th” That doesn’t sound like a new product announcement to me.

Did the shades work when he left? Did the keypads work when he left? What do the keypads control? Lights? Shades? Music? Do ANY of the buttons on the keypads work? Did you change programming in the keypads after he left?

What firmware version? Springs aren’t supported above 2.6.