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About Vahn

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    Control4 End User

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  1. Yikes. I kept trying to "select all" to "copy" and totally overlooked the "copy all." Boy, do I feel like a dummy. Thank you. I like the Macros idea even better, so you only have do that once. Never even considered that. Thank you again!
  2. I have some programming associated to a Motion Sensor that after a lot of trial and error works really well. I now want to copy that same programming to another device without doing it "by hand." I haven't found a way (and maybe their is not such feature?) to "copy/paste" or "export/import" programming from one device to another. This seems like it would be a basic feature for homes with a lot of devices, so I think I am being dense and over-looking something that might be right in front of me. To re-iterated, I don't need programming help and am looking for advice on the best/fastest way to "copy and paste" programming used on any device to any other device. The programming is not THAT complicated, but it's long enough that re-creating by hand for dozens of motion sensors would be a non-trivial amount of work and error prone.
  3. I am curious why the need to do the "virtual" Motion Sensor and connect it to the Phillips? I tested my programming off the actual sensor and the virtual version and it seems to work fine either way? So, it's just not immediately obvious to me since the properties in the Device Manager of the virtual Motion Sensor aren't particularly useful and neither are the query (example, you can't get the battery voltage from the virtual version, but can from the actual sensor). So far, so good. I wouldn't mind helping these folks out with their documentation. It's better than most by a large margin but could still use some TLC and updates. I got confused more than once trying to sort out the connections between the Gateway, the Sensor, and the "virtual Sensor" that could of been easily avoided with some more consistency in the level of detail provided and where screenshots are placed. The instructions also just has some errors and typos, presumably from trying to translate it from German? Either way, it does work pretty well so far. I am testing one of these and one of the C4/Card Acesss motion sensors right now and for a few days before I decide which way to go. It's nice of them to allow a trial period on the driver and even if I don't go this way, I'm still a fan. -V PS: My test case is O3 with Hue Bridge v1.
  4. Thanks everyone. I now have 1 of each of these installed and on the system to evaluate both. I am on OS3 with a hue bridge gen 1 (I know, I know, leave me alone). The both have pros and cons. If anyone is interested, I'll write up a little summary when my eval is over. I am going to go find the best place to post some comments/questions about the Unilogiq stuff.
  5. Interesting. We checked with C4 on that sensor and they said 'no, don't use it outdoors. I have several of the WMS10, but not the -2. Thank you so very much. I may sacrifice one of mine "for the fun of it." I did order 1 of Hue. It's not very expensive and they have a 3 day trial on the driver. Looks like a good side-by-side test is in order. (I love this stuff. Thanks all for your help over the years.)
  6. Looking for recommendation for an OUTDOOR rated (aka "weatherproof") battery powered Motion Sensor with C4 drivers. Found lots and lots of stuff for indoor use and have 14 Card Access motion sensors (Card Access WMS10) myself.
  7. FWIW - the IP AppleTV driver works like a champion on the GEN4 AppleTV (even if the instructions are written for previous generations of the AppleOS GUI). I am glad to have my IR back (removed from previous AppleTV GEN2 this one replaced) because I was out of IR ports on the HC800 and will need that for a future project. Bottom line: Double check your software connections. This one is particularly embarrassing because I had the screenshot of how it WAS connected (correctly, from the GEN2) next to the actual connection made for the GEN4, and I still didn't see it until it was pointed out to me. *doh*
  8. Thanks for the suggestion, but my case is closed and I am all set. The AppleTV did not appear as a Listen source in rooms without Watch sources, because I had made the wrong software connection. This was user error. I made the software connection from the AppleTV to the AMP input and not the software connection to the AUDIO Matrix input. This was staring me in the face the entire time, but I didn't see it until Cyknight's post.
  9. With regards to physical inputs and outputs: Physical input to the AMP was never modified. Physical outputs from the AMP were never modified either. Physical input into the AUDIO MATRIX was, when I added the AppleTV to Input 7. Physical outputs from the AUDIO MATRIX were never touched either. With regards to software inputs and outputs: For safety, I went back and loaded an older backup that pre-dates the addition of this AppleTV to check the non-physical (software) connections and nothing was ever in the Control4 8 Channel AMP input 8 (the wrong connection I made). If anyone cares, or wants to do something like this themselves, you may know the AppleTV (GEN4) and similar products such as the Amazon FireTV have limited interfaces. AppleTV (GEN4) only has (1) HDMI output. Previous to this project I was using a Portta D:A Audio converter with a previous generation of AppleTV (GEN2). That generation of hardware had an optical out, so I would convert it to analog and dump that into the Audio Matrix so I could hear the AppleTV in every room and not just those with Watch/video sources. I found this AGPTek HDMI converter to work very reliably and give me the same effect. Audio is still carried on the HDMI to your TV or HDMI Matrix.
  10. You are correct. It is connected to the Control 4 Audio Matrix, and always was, not an amp, on input 7. I thought that connection was made in C4, but I connected to the Amp and not the Audio Matrix in the Connections tab. User error, as expected. Thanks Cyknight. Screenshot with correct connection. Audio Switch, not Amp.
  11. First. Thanks for reply. Second. I may not understand the question. Their didn't seem to be anything remarkable about the (Dining, Living, Pool/Spa, etc., all) rooms with only speakers and not Watch/video sources) other than the identification of the "speaker out" to that room from Matrix-based C4 amp. The "endpoints" (not sure the correct word) are correct and function completely fine for any source into the matrix amp (like the DirecTV). I can "Listen" to the DirecTV in all those rooms, just not the AppleTV (which doesn't even appears as an option to add to the room navigator).
  12. One of the things I like to do is use what is typically a Watch source in 4 rooms (via HDMI Matrix switcher) as a Listen source in multiple rooms, so I can hear the "tv" in any room even if I am not watching it. This works perfectly fine with the DirecTV as a source plugged out of the DirecTV into the audio Matrix switcher. The DirectTV shows up as something you can add to the Navigator like I would expect. (Screenshot 1) However, the AppleTV is plugged in the same way with analog 2-channel audio out of the AppleTV (via splitter) and into the audio Matrix switcher with the appropriate connections. (Screenshot 2) But, when I try to add it as Listen source in Navigators, it's not available to be added in any room (like the Dining Room in the example) that doesn't also have it as a Watch source. (Screenshot 3). Both the AppleTV and the DirecTV are wired into C4 in the same way. HDMI out from the device into the HDMI and AUDIO Matrix switcher (respective), so I'm really not sure what I am missing here. Beyond making the connection from a device into 1 of the 16 RCA/analog ports on the AUDIO Matrix switcher, what is required to have it available as a Listen source in every room with speakers? Thanks for reading.
  13. I'm in that category of "need Sonos" because it has the best support for the Music Services I use which is Spotify most of the time. But I also like it for Amazon Prime, Pandora, and even Apple Music. My allegiance isn't specifically to Sonos. It's to Spotify. I'm a subscriber and have invested a lot of time organizing and setting up my Spotify. I use the Discover Weekly playlist every single week, multiple days of the week. I love that I can use Spotify everywhere. At work. At home. In the car. So, Spotify on Sonos is pretty critical to my C4 installation. I am still using the old connection method and I once again had to re-authenticate last night to get on it. No, I'm not ready to try the new driver and lose the transport controls I use almost every day at home. I have C4 so I don't have to have "folder of home automation apps" but I have it anyhow. Operating the pool/spa (Jandy) from C4 is really poor, especially the Jandy color changers. Operating the HVAC (Nest) isn't horrible, but it's as good as the Nest app, just to name a few. As a "pro-sumer" what I want is choices. I want the best C4 integration I can get, but I'm not so naive as to think the native phone aps won't be better in many or most cases than the C4 driver/integration for complex devices. My C4 app and C4 remote works just fine for Apple and Fire TV. Don't need or want their apps or remotes, thank you. Transport controls and searching are key to music services. The Sonos app is not better than the Spotify app for my use and isn't better than the simple controls on C4 for my usage. I haven't installed the new driver and I am holding out until this shakes itself out better despite how annoying it is to re-auth what feels like every 4 days or so.
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