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About timbooo

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    Control4 End User

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  1. Is there actually audio coming out of your wyrestorm converter? Have you plugged it straight into a dumb amp to test? I have a project with NuVo in it (sadly) and the line-ins do seem to work as they should.
  2. Try setting the doorstation to "use an alternate camera" and then just point it to it's own camera. Apparently this makes it use different streams or somesuch multicast nonsense that I don't fully comprehend. All I do know is it fixed the problems I was having with janky video. Also you mustn't have monitor mode enabled on any of your touch panel, those (I think just those, maybe all?) won't get video when a call comes in until you press answer. Check your router settings for IGMP snooping (I think it should be off) or any thing that is anti-multicast.
  3. Thanks for taking the time. I've gone ahead and done it and it works 'perfectly' (I hate to use that word.....), call steals focus as it should. As for the setup of the DS2 vs a stock 2N, gotta love that auto config button!
  4. Any info from anyone actively using IA would be nice, a client has just asked to replace a 2N Verso with a DS2 just to be able to use the app, it would really suck to go through that and then it doesn't work.
  5. By the downmixing version, you mean the one with stereo outs? That's only really needed if you want to pump the audio through a distribution system to use stereo ceiling speakers (or similar) in the rooms, or somesuch similar setup. Assuming your TVs are just using their own speakers, what you said sounds right. You will put the output of the matrix's "balun" into the cinema surround receiver and connect from their to the TV. So the matrix becomes an input to the AVR, the AVR takes care of the surround sound. The other TVs get "baluns" connected straight to HDMI1 (or whatever). I think if the TVs receive a 5.1 signal they'll just pare it down to stereo themselves, rather than causing any EDID problems...
  6. Hi guys I was talking to a 2N reseller t'other day and he informed me (whether rightly or wrongly I'm not sure) that a recent iOS update had killed the My2N app's functionality in that it can no longer steal focus and must be running in foreground to work. He was also quite certain that the C4 Intercom Anywhere app had suffered the same fate. Can anyone confirm or deny this? I don't see a slew of "MY INTERCOM ANYWHERE STOPPED WORKING" posts so I'm starting to think he might have been totally wrong. Especially considering all the past hullabaloo surround the app and it's launch, I would think people would be up in arms if it stopped working so soon after release! TLDR: does Intercom Anywhere work totally as it should on iOS and Android, does it work fully in background, does it steal focus like a phone call should?
  7. Yes but with intercom as well (phone to touch panels, admittedly unlikely) it becomes three apps.
  8. I have a situation where a 2N entry keypad was installed and connected to a large whole-house C4 system. Of course it's 99.9% the same product so everything has been fine. However "Intercom Anywhere" has thrown a spanner in the works. Even though it's essentially a DS2 with a 2N logo on it, it cannot be used. Yes I know there is the 2N app that could be used instead but apparently that's undesirable. I'd like to know if anyone has ever tried/managed/failed to flash a DS2 firmware image to a 2N Helios IP Verso (thus turning it into a DS2).
  9. At some point we have to apportion some blame to Amazon for not allowing proper IP control by third parties. It's a shame because it's obviously possible seeing as they have their own control app for phones/tablets. It's not really anything like a full second per press in my experience, but it's not 'instant'. All we can do is vote with our wallets, move to Apple TV or Roku (probably not Roku since it has a GUI from the 90s). But we're such a tiny market share I don't imagine Amazon bosses will lose any sleep. I'm sticking with IR control via flirc, cost approx £20/$20 and works flawlessly.
  10. Are you sure you're actually using the IP driver. If you have a dealer install you might already have a flirc or something.
  11. I just did my FLIRC installation today, I think perhaps I can describe the method a bit better now. I installed a Sony BDP-S350* driver into the project, and renamed it "Amazon Fire". You can use something else, but I can vouch for this one working well. Make the relevant connections - the HDMI out and (importantly) the IR. Glue the IR bud to the FLIRC, and put the FLIRC into a laptop and load up the software. Turn on the C4 system with the new "Amazon Fire" as the source (which is actually the Sony IR bluray driver). In the FLIRC software, go through the wizard steps to assign IR codes to the Fire TV functions. Use your SR-260 / 250 for this part, so the buttons will definitely map correctly. (I chose a bluray driver because it has all the correct buttons) That's it. Now stick the FLIRC in the back of the Fire TV and it will magically work. NB: When the wizard is finished you can actually add extra codes to each command, for example I gave the Fire TV "HOME" command to both the "MENU" and "GUIDE" buttons on the remote. Likewise I set "BACK" to both "CANCEL" and "PREV". To do that, just click on the button in the FLIRC UI and press another button on the remote. It might say "already assigned" just say ok. edit: and assign both "play" and "pause" buttons to "play" on the fire remote. * you won't get a nice Fire TV icon. In theory one could make a new driver with the same codes and a Fire TV icon but I don't use touchscreens so I don't care.
  12. Then you can do it the other way around. Pick a DVD player driver from the C4 database, add it to the project, call it Amazon Fire. Use the commands from that driver to teach the flirc while it's in your laptop (stick the bud on and press the button flirc setup asks for) then move it to the Fire TV and away you go. I guess still need a dealer unless you've got your hands on composer pro.
  13. It seems a bit odd at first but once you get your head around it its very simple. You are basically assigning IR codes to operate the Fire TV, since it doesn't have its own. First you plug the flirc into your computer use their software to choose what device you want to use it with (Fire TV) You then map some IR commands to each function. Any commands you want. So you could use a TV remote or whatever. You need any device that has all the same commands. An old Apple TV remote at first seems ideal (because then you could use the C4 ATV IR driver) but it isn't quite right because there's no hamburger button or separate back/home. Actually a DVD remote is a good bet. When it's done, stick the flirc in the back of the Fire TV and whichever remote you used to program will operate it via IR. Good idea to test that. After that is the C4 part, you would create a driver and learn from that same remote. If you used a remote that already has a C4 driver you could probably skip that, but I prefer to be absolutely sure I'm mapping the right controls to the right places. OH and you'll need to stick an IR bud onto the flirc of course! Sounds long winded, but it's really not. Not the second time, anyway Apparently you also need to turn OFF adb debugging in the Fire TV settings. I hope they haven't cut off this control method too, I haven't seen any reports to suggest so. I know we have a very vocal customer who has one of these running so I think I would have heard by now and a 'true blue' friend of mine says he always uses the flirc method for Fire TVs.
  14. Hehe. Well anyway, I have installed a similar setup with a Wyrestorm Express (read: their cheap range, probably re-badged ebay fodder) HDMI switcher. Works absolutely fine. Just need to make sure the HDMI switcher you chose has discrete buttons on the remote rather than just a "cycle through" button. Once the driver is made and everything's mapped correctly C4 can do its magic.
  15. Well to anyone considering a Roku as a replacement who hasn't used one before, I can confirm the IP driver works a charm and the channels mini drivers are great (especially the way they come in a channels menu instead of filling up the Watch list like the Fire TV mini drivers did). However the "prime video" app is disappointing. The interface is super ugly, and loading is much slower than on the Fire TV. Interestingly it has a "prime" category that filters out everything that costs money, which is something the real Fire TV interface has always lacked. It's a shame because the main Roku interface is lovely. I guess they don't design the apps themselves, or they haven't touched them in a long time. I am using an old device (2XS) so maybe the new ones are different. Once my flirc arrives I'll probably go back to my gen1 4k Fire TV box.
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