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About timbooo

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    Control4 End User

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  1. *sigh* Fixed by deleting the TV in Composer and putting it back in again. And that's why we all love Control4. Sorry annex4 for even suggesting it was your fault. The TV-to-remote-control command passthrough thing is super freaky though!
  2. I may be totally wrong but the driver seems to be overriding the video audio endpoint set in composer. I have a Sonos playbar connected via the TVs optical out, installed with the endorsed driver. No matter what I set as the video audio endpoint, the volume controls operate the TV. Even if I set no audio or video-audio endpoint at all, I still get volume control of the TV. Isn't that a bit odd? And then there's this part. Every time I set the TV into optical/ARC mode, I can still see that the TV is the device receiving the volume commands (on screen + / -), but I also see the Sonos taking commands (white LED, looking at app) and changing volume. But this only works for a little while and then stops. The playbar just stops changing volume, until I change the TV out of optical/ARC and back to it again. I really don't know what's happening there. I should add the audio is working through the playbar fine at all times. If I change the volume in the app, it works fine. Even more weirdly, I can then use the SR260 to change the volume. For a few seconds, then it stops again and I just get the on-screen volume display on the LG TV. Going a bit mad trying to figure this out, any advice is appreciated. Bit more info: if I just play audio, the volume control from the SR260 works fine. If I then turn on the TV (i.e. WATCH > SKY or whatever), I maintain control of the volume. If I room off, and then WATCH > SKY, the TV 'intercepts' the volume commands again. So weird. Edit again: wowee I've just worked out that the IP driver is telling the TV to change the volume, and the TV is telling the remote control (bluetooth) to send the IR command which is what is changing the volume on the Playbar. That's why the white LED flashes. Whyyyyyyyyy?! I can confirm this because when I sit my fat arse on top of the remote it stops happening. It also stops when the Bluetooth-y functions go to sleep, and resumes when the remote wakes up and that silly pointer comes back on-screen. That is some weird behaviour right there. I'd rather not sellotape the LG remote to the playbar.
  3. Thanks. Does that mean I need an instance of the mini driver for each TV?
  4. So where is the other one?
  5. Sorry if I'm a dumbo but what's the procedure for connecting the mini apps?
  6. Is there actually audio coming out of your wyrestorm converter? Have you plugged it straight into a dumb amp to test? I have a project with NuVo in it (sadly) and the line-ins do seem to work as they should.
  7. Try setting the doorstation to "use an alternate camera" and then just point it to it's own camera. Apparently this makes it use different streams or somesuch multicast nonsense that I don't fully comprehend. All I do know is it fixed the problems I was having with janky video. Also you mustn't have monitor mode enabled on any of your touch panel, those (I think just those, maybe all?) won't get video when a call comes in until you press answer. Check your router settings for IGMP snooping (I think it should be off) or any thing that is anti-multicast.
  8. Thanks for taking the time. I've gone ahead and done it and it works 'perfectly' (I hate to use that word.....), call steals focus as it should. As for the setup of the DS2 vs a stock 2N, gotta love that auto config button!
  9. Any info from anyone actively using IA would be nice, a client has just asked to replace a 2N Verso with a DS2 just to be able to use the app, it would really suck to go through that and then it doesn't work.
  10. By the downmixing version, you mean the one with stereo outs? That's only really needed if you want to pump the audio through a distribution system to use stereo ceiling speakers (or similar) in the rooms, or somesuch similar setup. Assuming your TVs are just using their own speakers, what you said sounds right. You will put the output of the matrix's "balun" into the cinema surround receiver and connect from their to the TV. So the matrix becomes an input to the AVR, the AVR takes care of the surround sound. The other TVs get "baluns" connected straight to HDMI1 (or whatever). I think if the TVs receive a 5.1 signal they'll just pare it down to stereo themselves, rather than causing any EDID problems...
  11. Hi guys I was talking to a 2N reseller t'other day and he informed me (whether rightly or wrongly I'm not sure) that a recent iOS update had killed the My2N app's functionality in that it can no longer steal focus and must be running in foreground to work. He was also quite certain that the C4 Intercom Anywhere app had suffered the same fate. Can anyone confirm or deny this? I don't see a slew of "MY INTERCOM ANYWHERE STOPPED WORKING" posts so I'm starting to think he might have been totally wrong. Especially considering all the past hullabaloo surround the app and it's launch, I would think people would be up in arms if it stopped working so soon after release! TLDR: does Intercom Anywhere work totally as it should on iOS and Android, does it work fully in background, does it steal focus like a phone call should?
  12. Yes but with intercom as well (phone to touch panels, admittedly unlikely) it becomes three apps.
  13. I have a situation where a 2N entry keypad was installed and connected to a large whole-house C4 system. Of course it's 99.9% the same product so everything has been fine. However "Intercom Anywhere" has thrown a spanner in the works. Even though it's essentially a DS2 with a 2N logo on it, it cannot be used. Yes I know there is the 2N app that could be used instead but apparently that's undesirable. I'd like to know if anyone has ever tried/managed/failed to flash a DS2 firmware image to a 2N Helios IP Verso (thus turning it into a DS2).
  14. At some point we have to apportion some blame to Amazon for not allowing proper IP control by third parties. It's a shame because it's obviously possible seeing as they have their own control app for phones/tablets. It's not really anything like a full second per press in my experience, but it's not 'instant'. All we can do is vote with our wallets, move to Apple TV or Roku (probably not Roku since it has a GUI from the 90s). But we're such a tiny market share I don't imagine Amazon bosses will lose any sleep. I'm sticking with IR control via flirc, cost approx £20/$20 and works flawlessly.
  15. Are you sure you're actually using the IP driver. If you have a dealer install you might already have a flirc or something.
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