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Elvis

c4Forums Member
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Elvis last won the day on May 7

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About Elvis

  • Rank
    Control4 Guru
  • Birthday 09/28/1959

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lake Bob Sandlin, TX
  • Interests
    Finding the next money pit.

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  1. Not an easy thing to do. Congrats. Something Sheldon Cooper would say if he was a C4 dealer. Love it.
  2. I have been down this road. Having a responsive, local dealer that you can deal with face-to-face can be a great thing. You need to weigh the cost of the equipment he is offering vs. the cost of UniFi and cost of managing the UniFi if you are not going to do it yourself. Then you need to put a value on eliminating the network as an excuse for C4 troubles. I went from Apple > Luxul > UniFi and I am still running UniFi. When I had issues, I got no support for network troubleshooting from my dealer. If I had it to do over again, I would have written the check. But who knows if it would have really solved the audio issues I had. Instead I turned to remote dealers here and educated myself. The end result was I spent a lot more money and a hell of a lot more of my own time than the cost of Pakedge and letting my local dealer install it all. It is interesting to note that when I started, Luxul was the C4 choice. Now it is Pakedge. I'd hope they've got it right by now. And don't be afraid to question his pricing. If he is selling it to you at MSRP then he should be including a lot of extra time for setup if not full install. My opinion. Dealers might disagree. You can probably get it for 15-20% off MSRP from a dealer here. Good luck and congrats on the new house.
  3. Well that matters. From this below, I misunderstood to think I'd get feedback... eh. May have to give up some CFMs to get the smart fan.
  4. Yeah, I was going to but the Slipstream moves the most air. Do I miss anything with the Bond bridge, other than $99?
  5. See the Looking for an Integrator topic. I am currently using @chopedogg88 and I have yet to piss the guy off with frequent emails and texts. Ha. He has been extremely patient with me. I have used @AK1, @StroTek LLC, @Matt Lowe, @msgreenf and all are fast and efficient. Some charge by various increments, some as little as 5 minutes. When they are fast, and bill you for 10 minutes, that's a heck of a bargain. Not all of them do that, but most will get down to 15 or 30 minutes.
  6. I've had great luck here with finding very reasonable and fast remote integrators. Sage advice.
  7. Not sure what B.A.F. is but I do plan to use the Bond Bridge. Sounds like wiring it hot (on all the time) and using the wireless keypad is the way to go. All on one switch. Or use the remote. I might have them wire it to an essential on/off switch in the storage room so I can shut it off if the Bridge is not responsive. Thank you.
  8. Hi Alan, I am planning on using two Minka Slipstream fans in the boat house with a Bond Bridge. What I don't understand is how this helps integrate with Control4 physical switches or fan controls? Would I use a C4 fan controller or configurable keypad or ?? We liked what we had in our old house, which was one dimmer for the fan light, and one fan speed controller for the fan. (GE Z wave and Vera) These worked great because the fan speed controllers remembered the last speed, so tapping them on turned the fan on to the last speed selected. This is what I want both in the house and in the boat house. Edit: We had one Minka fan at the old house. We had it on one switch and used the remote to change speed/direction/light. The problem was that when we turned it off with the physical switch, when we turned it back on it was like it had to boot up. It would eventually come on to the last setting, but the delay was great enough that when someone hit the switch and nothing happened, they assumed they had the wrong switch and flipped it back off and tried another switch. Not satisfactory. Want to avoid this. Thank you. p.s. thanks for the newsletter. great idea.
  9. Just a heads up. I thought these Feit Motion Sensing Light Bulbs were the answer to closet lights, etc. that need to come on via motion. Instead of having to install a Lutron motion sensing switch, I thought these things were the easy answer. Superb idea but poor execution. I didn't believe it until the Feit engineers confirmed it. They use microwave motion detection. So if you roll over in bed, the closet light will come on, even with the door closed. If someone walks under the closet downstairs, the light will come on. It sees through drywall, tile, floors... it is crazy sensitive. I had to put a wireless camera in the pantry to see for myself because it was never going off. After 10 minutes outside on the patio, the thing worked and turned the light off. Walked in the house and the light came on, through a tiled wall (backsplash) and 25' away through another wall to the door. Basically if we are in the house, the light is on. The part I don't understand is that it also can disrupt your WiFi. I put two of these in and created two dead zones. Flip the light switch to remove power, and WiFi comes back. Others have said they'll screw up Sonos. Haven't seen that myself.
  10. I'll give it a shot and see how it works. Long way to go before the audio is wired so I'll go with the Unifi for now. If it gives me issues with streaming later, I may swap it out. Thank you both.
  11. They are either unwilling or unable to do bridge mode or modem only mode. So ISP router > Switches > devices it is.
  12. I'm on a Fixed Wireless network connection, and the ISP uses the router to manage the radio/dish pointed at the tower. But I can go: Router > Managed Switch >> Other managed/unmanaged switches. - or - Router > Router (I can admin) > Managed Switch >> Other managed/unmanaged switches ISP admin will do IP reservations for me, if needed. But that seems a lot less important these days. I had a double router setup a few years ago and it was problematic. Since I own to Unifi Managed Switches, it would save me a little money to use these. I could put both APs on the Unifi 8 port PoE switch and connect the other switches to this switch.
  13. In another thread it was mentioned that Ubiquiti switches were on the "ban list" with C4. And a while back, Cy recommended unmanaged switches. So figure I better ask before I buy more switches. I guess I really don't have to have any PoE ports and just use the injectors, but seemed like it would make for a cleaner install. I was going to go with Netgear Prosafe switches. Any recommendations? Here is my original plan: ISP's Router <-> Internet ISP's Router <-> EA-3 ISP's Router <-> Downstairs Family Room Unmanaged PoE switch ISP's Router <-> Upstairs Playroom Unmanaged PoE switch ISP's Router <-> Boat House Unmanaged PoE switch Downstairs Family Room Unmanaged PoE switch <-> Downstairs Unifi AC-Pro AP Downstairs Family Room Unmanaged PoE switch <-> TV/Soundbar/Hopper/AppleTV/Xbox (AV console) Downstairs Family Room Unmanaged PoE switch <-> Wired computers/printers Downstairs Unifi AC-Pro AP <-> Downstairs/Front yard wireless clients Upstairs Playroom Unmanaged PoE switch <-> Upstairs Unifi AC-Pro AP Upstairs Playroom Unmanaged PoE switch <-> TV/AV Receiver/AppleTV/Xbox (AV console)/Joey Upstairs Unifi AC-Pro AP <-> Upstairs/Back yard wireless clients Boat House Unmanaged PoE switch <-> Boat House Unifi AC-Pro AP Boat House Unmanaged PoE switch <-> TV/Joey Boat House Unifi AC-Pro AP <-> Boat House/Lakeside wireless clients I have no admin rights to the ISP's router. But they are pretty easy to work with. Router is made by Cambium Networks. Wasn't sure if I should go: ISP's Router <-> Downstairs switch and move the other switches connections to the downstairs (primary) switch to isolate the network traffic from the ISP's router/switch. I haven't rebuilt the system enough yet to see how the EA-3 audio streaming is going to work.
  14. I don't have anything "configured" -- so I guess full access. The default settings for everything. I do have wireless channels deconflicted with the neighbors now that I live in a neighborhood instead of the country.
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