knowitall

My NVRs was Lilin and Hikvision, I have 2. I’m running the latest version of everything with an EA5v2

I misread and thought you were trying to sell 3 of your kids
 

Ubiquiti is the Harmony remote of AP's

Most do - at worst it's been reversed tx/rx and on EA that's a non-issue as you can flip that (null vs straight).
Had one cable once that wouldn't work, but that was a left over from a specialty box that wasn't supposed to be true serial control.

Directly in the elements? Sunbrite. Other than that cheapest you can buy size you want. Been the rule for like 10 years

I’m having a hard time justifying it to myself.  In non-surround rooms I don’t care about tv audio thru speakers. Roku sticks can get the xfinity app and that is basically all sources. Haven’t touched a dvd in 7 years, don’t care about OSD. The ONLY (For me) advantage would be surveillance cameras on TV.
how are you selling it or why are you buying it?
 
Matrix or a MoIP systems is a large up front cost. 
 
pros:
tv audio thru speakrs
surveillance nvr distro
 
Cons:
$10k for 6 tv 

Another pro: all TVs are in sync with the same content which is useful if you host big gatherings for sports, award shows etc.  maybe not now with COVID and all but it’s still a great use of distributed video that hopefully we can use again soon!
also for a system like mine - it’s just me and the wife - it’s a lot less maintenance.  I can distribute 1 streaming box to 6 TVs. It’s a luxury but when a password changes or we add a new app I don’t have to update 6 boxes, just one.  Again it’s a luxury but it’s certainly nice 

yesssss found it!!
 

yesssss found it!!
 

Because they are not always in the office or available to answer.

You’re wasting your time IMO. “Nothing worked” = start over. The previous project is worthless to you & the current home owner. Have they paid you anything?
 
they Obviously pulled the KP’s when the 300 died and they didn’t work anymore  
what’s the goal here?
 
I would:
 
take the HC200/300’s to a farm up north. 
 
charge a days labor, take a 250 on 2.5.3 over there and bring all the existing zigbee stuff up to that.
let the customer know what is / isn’t working. 
 
get paid more, bring all the zigbee upto 2.10.6
then install EA3/5 and automate the house

Yeah, gonna need a lot more info like how were you even able to keep running 1.74 for nearly 11 years

Lots of legacy issues today?
ive read your second paragraph 4 times and have no idea what you’re trying to do. 2.x.x is ZP  so just go 13-4-13 everything and re add it. 
 
why are you even wasting time with the HC200?
if you’re trying to do what I think you are get a HC250 and roll it back and used that

These are my favorite threads. 

These are my favorite threads. 

Wasn’t trying to get too advanced for all the engineers around here. 

Still running the same program 2.10.6 on my 250bl1. Snoooooozzzzeeeeee
 
HOWEVER while it’s boring, it’s reliable solid and has been working flawlessly since approx 2014 when I set it and forget it. 
 
**edit obviously updated os and drivers as needed**

I accept Venmo 

I accept Venmo 

I accept Venmo 

I'd say that would be the first step.
PS, there are multiple ways to doing all the above that would allow you to place the actual switch in ANY location - ie put in the most critical location - or NOT right where the LED blinds you as you get out of bed....but you'd certainly need that new electrician.
 

Is the wiring in your home current? You should have romex with a red (traveler) black (hot) white (neutral) and bare copper (ground) connecting all the switches.  If yes proceed below, if no it can probably work you'll just have to get creative.
 
Step 1- find the power (line) coming into the group of existing switches. 
Step 2- find the power (load) going to the light. 
Are those two lines in the same junction box?
YES. 
Step 3 - install switch at that location black power in to black on c4 switch. Black out to light to red on c4 switch. White to white. Green to ground. Red to yellow on c4 switch. 
Step 4 - at other locations and provided you actually have AUX kp's, BLUE to white, green to ground and yellow to red. CAP OFF BLACK WIRES at these locations. They are not used  
Step 5- restore power and test.
 
NO
Step 3 - start at location where power (line) is coming in. Connect black power in to black wire that is part of the 3 way circuit. Put AUX KP here.  Blue > white, green > ground, yellow > red. 
 
Step 4 - at "middle" location connect the two blacks (to continue to carry power thru). Put AUX KP here.  Blue > white, green > ground, yellow > red. All of them together. 
 
Step 5 - install c4 switch where the load (light fixture) wire is. black in from 3 way romex wire to black on c4 switch. Red from c4 switch to load to light. Yellow from c4 switch to red, whites to whites and green to grounds.  
 
Step 6 - restore power and test. 
 
Final step- hire new electrician. 

I’ve got tons of comments on this, but must preface with I don’t know the layout of your home or the decision behind configuring it this was in the first place. 
 
115 zigbee devices is only 50% of the max a mesh network can handle. By nature, the mesh network is “living” and constantly changing looking for the most efficient path home. Adding ZAPs to a robust mesh can actually hinder this process. Same goes for the zigbee extender (the old CA piece or new C4 version, unless you’re talking about the 9’ antenna)
Personally is shut everything off and let the CA10 do the work. 
if you must keep the networks separate, and depending on how far away they are, channels 23/25 are way too close. Depending on what your 2.4ghz WiFi is running on, I get the channel separated further.
Without doing too much work tho, shutting off the ZAP’s and removing any stand alone “extenders” (remember, besides the original C4 tstat, lighting/KP’s are the best extenders you can get) and separating the channels a little more, after 48-72 hours I’d bet the latency issue clears up pretty noticeably.
 
and now I’ll let everyone tell you the exact opposite :)
 

Did you check bindings?

Do the Rokus show up in the drop down on their driver's properties page? (should be able to see that in Composer HE).