HomeAutomationNerd

I have never figured out a way to do this. Any time a power outage happens, or a breaker trips, all the switches sensibly default to "Off". What's I've done for Hue is make all the switches into 2-button keypads, and when the Top Butting is pressed I have a 2 line program "If Power is Off then Turn On Power". This has worked well.

> [,,,] Make sure your Poll interval is set The recent Hue API has full push features via Server Sent Events. Designed specifically for home automation system Intergrations. No polling. Very little latency. Hopefully the C4 Bridge driver can be updated to use this. See here. Actual API Docs are behind their auth prompt. Here's a simple Github example in Node. > The T3 & T4 have the functionality, it is under a long press of the bulb icon > color Indeed!! Long Press. Confirmed on T3 and T4 devices. Thanks. > What kind of switch are you binding it too? I'm using the C4-SW120277. Set to "Use as a 2 button keypad", with the same connections you show. This means I need a custom macro to set power, as turning the keypad on won't necessary power up the Hue lights. I end up adding the script to make this foolproof - every time it's turned on, the lights should turn on. This includes after a power outage, or whatever. ("Island Pendants - Load" is the name of the physical switch, which is hidden in the navigators. The "Island Pendants" is the name of the Hue Switch.) Connections are the same as you showed - from the physical switch to the Hue Light.

@LollerAgentI had assumed full support from the various media online. Hue support has taken a step forward, but it's nowhere near "Fully" supported.

After a bit of trial and error, I've got the 3.3 Updates working with Hue. The Good: The IOS App has color wheel and presets now, and works nicely. Hue Zones are picked up, and bound to the Hue Bulb. Much nicer, and colors and brightness stay in sync far better than before. The Bad: Doesn't pickup Hue events (aka: Do something in the Hue App). Hue API supports streamed events, so things could stay in sync. C4 bridge driver needs an update. The T3 screens just give dimming. No color wheels or presets. The T4 screens just give dimming. No color wheels or presets. When bound to a switch, I still have to program the on/off behavior. By default, turning off the switch cuts power to the Hue bulb. Custom settings still appear needed. Needed an additional controller reboot to pickup lights from the bridge driver. I would love thoughts on the best approach to #4. That is, how best to setup the switches to support Hue?

I've never gotten an integration with Moen and C4 to work. Honestly, while I love the Moen product, I don't use the connected features. It's easy enough to just this the button to turn it on and off. There's a Github package, and the API looks pretty simple: madenwala/Moen.U.Api: C# API for U by Moen (github.com)

Does the Unilogiq driver actually do bidirectional communication with Hue? That is, if I update a hue Bulb via the Hue app, will C4 system see it? The C4 driver is purely passive, and I would love to switch to a more active driver.

I've got a new Yale Assure lock, all programed into a Control4 system. When I lock the lock via the Control4, the lock cycles twice and then reports an error code. The lock does *physically* lock. Is there some calibration that needs to somehow be done on the lock? Turning the lock/unlock knob works great and is smooth. The LUA Console gives back: ZL.logPacketTransmission(): class[Inbound] frameType[ClusterSpecific] clusterId[0x0009][Alarm] commandId[0x00][Alarm] sequenceNumber[0x94] Inbound.Handlers.Alarm(): alarmId[0x09][DeadboltJammed] LockReport_LockStatus Status: fault Description: Source: Yale Lock ManualCaused: false This is happening on 2 Yale Locks (one new Assure, and one Yale Real Living). I'll contact Yale Tech support on Monday, but was hoping to get this fixed sooner...

I installed the Chime over a 1/2 depth box. It looks horrible (!!). The Ethernet connector on the back of the Chime is a nightmare of "r/assholedesign" proportions. The product would be better if the Ethernet plugged directly into the product. As it sits, you need a > 1/2" hole in your plate to fit the connector through, and you need a deep enough box to hold the connector, and enough space to squish the cable in. If you don't have a box mounted into the house (I don't, but I do have Ethernet) I would avoid this product. If anyone comes up with a 3D Printed box, I would be interested. Embedding a box into the house in this location isn't an option.

I was just trying to mount it, and need a wedge or standoff of some sort. Eufy seems the closest in size, but not quite right...

I wouldn't deal with injectors. Just put a POE Switch on the other end of the cable. You can then easily power the switch with a UPS as well. Once you have POE, you'll not go back. Camera's, T3s, Doorbells, Control4 EA1 and EA3s, etc. Not having to separately manage power is... great.

I'm using the latest LG 48" OLED and it's spectacular. 120hz, 4k, HDR OLED panel. IP Control via the Annex4 driver works quite well. Generally speaking, folks seem to say the higher-end Sony TV's have good IP control through Control4

They seem to have updated quite a bit of the internals. For example, Node went from v6 to v10. Hopefully they did a general O/S update as well, and pulled in all the latest (and more secure) Samba and File system drivers. With the Node update, I wonder if they're considering running Homebridge on the EA1/3/5. That would bring a huge new feature set...

Any word on Color Wheels for a T3 or T4? Still looking for improved Hue integrations...

I'm on the latest version, so far as I can tell. It's all updated through IOS. I'll shoot an email off to Akuvox support tomorrow, as I'm sure there's some SIP Proxy setting that I'm missing.

Using Intercom Anywhere, I only get signaling from the Akuvox. No Audio, no video. I get a notification on my IOS device, press "Answer", then nothing. The Akuvox works *just fine* with the T3's. Using a T3, I can answer the call and communicate with whomever is at my front door. It seems as though I'm missing some outbound proxy setting, and the Intercom Anywhere app needs that.