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Crustyloafer last won the day on June 11

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About Crustyloafer

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    Control4 Guru
  • Birthday 01/04/1978

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  1. All of what you describe in 1-3 are easily achievable. The Control4 system would be constantly aware of the current on/off status of the light load so if you programmed the system to just toggle the light load every time the momentary contact was closed it would always change to the opposite state it was currently in regardless of which method was last used the control the light load.
  2. Rako Lighting Controls will do exactly what you want. https://rakocontrols.com/rci4l/ These will sit inside a backbox and connect to up to 4 2-way latching switches, you can then program them to do whatever you want whether it be natively controlling a Rako wireless relay/dimmer for the light or integrated with Control4 to offer other functionality. These are specifically designed so that owner of older houses with traditional light switches etc in keeping with the style and decor of the home can keep them in place but still offer some smart home lighting controls and integration with a third party control system. Rako integrated very nicely with Control4, I have installed dozens of Rako lighting systems and integrated them with C4 so if you have any further questions then please ask away.
  3. Sounds like the Bus Ethernet Gateway has failed or the BEG and/or dimmer packs do not have a working network connection.
  4. This should be interesting. https://radiotoday.co.uk/2019/08/bbc-to-pull-all-radio-services-from-tunein-uk-platform/
  5. I would suggest starting a new post rather than digging up an ancient thread. Also, you'll need to be a little more specific, what kind of keypad, which LEDs are not working, the status or backlighting?
  6. T Just use the PLA88 driver, it works all their video matrices. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/oa5kgppuhmb3ke1/AACAWSTV12K5KPVRhc0CUeIya/3rd Party Control Drivers/Control4?dl=0&lst=&preview=avswitch_ip_Blustream_PLA88.c4z&subfolder_nav_tracking=1
  7. 1. There is no need to for the ground connection on the RS485 cable to the QIS module, just data +/-. The ground terminal is only used as the - terminal for the 5V power supply. 2. Here is the Pinout for the RS485 to RJ45 connection, it’s just standard 568B at the RJ45 end and the orange pair are used for data transmission, with orange/white = + and orange = -. 3. The power supply connects to terminals 5 and 6, with 5 being ground/- and 6 being +. 4. Drivers are in the C4 database but if you can’t find the right ones here they are too: https://www.dropbox.com/s/mdo7acpgezwz49f/qmotion_serial_connection.c4z?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/fg6v9otagounmso/blind_qmotion_qadvanced_roller_shade_serial.c4z?dl=0
  8. I'm happy to offer my services too, please PM me for more details.
  9. DO NOT use CAT5/6 cable for Control4 or Lutron keypads. It will work, but it's not support by either manufacturer. We use this for all our Control4 lighting jobs: https://www.fscables.com/sites/admin/plugins/elfinder/files/fscables/Datasheets/1822ECCH-E00.pdf You need the 18 gauge pair for the power bus as there is 48V going down it and depending on the number of keypads on the loop it could be up to 75W of power in total. This is not recommended for transmission down CAT5/6 cable. Control4's own guidelines on using CAT6 for keypad wiring is only for retrofit situations where there is no other cable in place and they advise on tripling up the conductors for the power bus and then the remaining pair is used for data data comms bus. Having to twist together three solid core conductors to try and fit them into a single phoenix connector terminal is a pain in the ass at the best of times, why anyone would chose to inflict such misery on themselves or their installer when they can just buy the right cable for the job is beyond me.
  10. Just use the paid for driver from Chowmainsoft, far better driver and much better support. Is still pretty cheap anyway, we use on every job with Sky+HD and Sky Q. http://www.chowmainsoft.com/uk-sky
  11. Like this: https://www.dropbox.com/s/q7vm8xsa6dyttty/Screenshot 2019-07-27 09.41.27.png?dl=0
  12. Edit: Realised you are talking about Triad 1 zone power amp and not Triad One You need to set the EA-5 as the audio volume endpoint for the room.
  13. Not much. We just placed an order for 130 buttons which worked out at about £4.50 per button retail ex VAT. About 45 keypad dimmers so pretty small change in comparison to size of project.
  14. I've got a client with his own Orbi system install, one hard-wired and the rest wireless satellites and he has constant issues with Control4 app not connecting to the system. Also the various Sonos devices he has which are also connected via the Orbing WiFi drop off the network all the time. Needless to say, we will be upgrading him to a full UniFi setup with hard-wired only APs.
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