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livitup last won the day on March 23

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About livitup

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    Control4 End User

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  1. There's a publicly accessible interface to the driver database search. This will get you all the Experience Buttons in the C4 database, (and a few random non-Experience buttons) there are others available for a charge from 3rd party driver developers... https://drivers.control4.com/solr/drivers/browse?&q=&fq=primaryProxy:"uibutton"
  2. IFTTT is disabling all the GMail actions and triggers other than “Send an email” and “Send yourself an email,” due to API changes on Google’s side to address privacy concerns. If you’re currently using any inbound (send an email and C4 does something) or other similar stuff, with Alan’s IFTTT driver, it’s going to stop working soon. More details: https://www.androidpolice.com/2019/03/22/most-ifttt-applets-using-gmail-will-break-this-month/
  3. I always Velcro them to the back of the TV. Keeps the cables nice and short and everything neat and tidy. Also makes the balun less likely to get moved around.
  4. It’s been my personal and professional experience that if you breathe on them wrong they fry. I purposely avoid touching the ones in my own house because I’m afraid of frying them. Not sure if it’s something about the voltages in HD-BaseT or the Leaf baluns specifically, but yeah. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. 1) The blinking green light comes on regardless of the HDMI being plugged into the TV. The solid green light seems to be a "good path" light - it only comes on when a valid source is switched to a valid destination and both sides are connected. 2) Yes, the blinking green light should come on within seconds of connecting. 3) If you're plugging a 1m Cat5e or better cable directly between the balun and the matrix and you don't get a green light, then the balun is blown. 4) Good 5) Banana peels are an insulator. Might try tying a river otter to the cable - water is conductive so could help. 6) The balun is bad/blown 7) The balun is bad/blown 8. No. When mine went bad they showed the orange light. If it's within the warranty period, C4 will replace it under RMA. If it's outside the warranty period then you need to buy a new balun. Are you a dealer and/or working with a dealer? If not let me know if I can help you out getting support involved. And actually, that brings up a good point - has anyone reached out to C4 support about this yet?
  6. Is it the Downmixing version (a -D in the part number)? Rooms that only have the in ceiling speakers it's simple... bind the "Video's Audio" to the last controllable device. Sounds like that should be the AVR. How do you have the AVR physically connected to the video matrix? In rooms where there is a soundbar it's more complex. Control4 doesn't really handle this well - the best solutions is to use two rooms per Unsocialtoaster's suggestion. The down-mixing Leaf matrixes have the ability to split out audio, convert it to two channel stereo, add a configurable amount of delay, and spit it out a pair of RCA outputs. This is the only satisfactory solution I've ever found to this situation, it's the one I use in my house, and the only one I'll support with clients.
  7. Wow, this blew up since my original reply... I think I am caught up. Here's what I can tell you about the status lights on the balun: With the TV off, but the balun properly connected to the matrix you should have one blinking green light. With the TV on and a good path from source, through the matrix, and to the TV you should have the same blinking light and a solid green light. Note that unplugging the HDMI from the TV to the balun will result in you not getting the solid green light. The solid green light seems to indicate successful path all the way from the TV to the source. If you're getting an amber light, that has nothing to do with the TV. When I unplugged the HDMI cable from one of my baluns, I still had the blinking green light. The only thing I didn't try was deleting the binding in Composer, but as long as you have some TV bound to the output of the matrix you should be able to at least get a blinking green light. Is there any combination at all that gives you a blinking green light at this point? I'll close this message with two thoughts... 1) They did have a really bad batch of these baluns... I bought 8 just over a year ago and had 3 or 4 of them go bad. The bad ones make a pretty loud hissing noise from inside. 2) Control4 warns installers in about 5 different places to ensure EVERYTHING is powered off when you connect/disconnect ANYTHING from a Leaf matrix, and they specifically forbid the use of the "EZ" style of RJ45 connectors. There's something about the electronics in these things that's ultra sensitive to spikes. So be careful during your testing to make sure you don't blow the damn thing. If you can get a blinking green light with any cable, then we should be able to figure this out...
  8. Use "SET LED CURRENT" and it should work for you. Also, make sure the button's LED BEHAVIOR is set to "Programmed" on the Keypad's properties page in the Monitoring screen.
  9. Do you have the output side of the Leaf bound to the HDMI input on the TV where the balun is connected? Cable HDMI Out -> Leaf input 1 Apple TV HDMI Out -> Leaf input 2 Leaf Output 1 -> TV number 1 HDMI Input 1 (or whatever) Leaf Output 2 -> TV number 2 HDMI Input 1 (or whatever)
  10. Similar to how the Room Control driver has the audio cycler to flip between 5 music sources, I'd like to set up a keypad to flip between 5 channels on a particular TV. I figured out the room control driver preset cycler only does audio sources... is there an easy way to do this without resorting to variables? ETA: The video would be coming through my matrix. I currently have all five of the channels I want in my "channels" list, accessible via "Watch -> Channels". There are three DirecTV boxes connected to my matrix, and just as "Watch -> Channels" picks one not already in use if possible, I'd love this to do the same thing.
  11. 100% correct. I forgot about that - I need to get in the habit of doing more with that driver.
  12. Follow connection is for tracking an individual lighting load or an advanced lighting scene. You're correct that a dealer needs to make these links for you - they bind a scene or a load to the switch via Composer Pro. I've never tried to bind it to anything other than a lighting load - I don't think it's possible to bind a button to music or other statuses. For that you need to continue to use programming.
  13. I believe the code is set as a device variable when the lock is unlocked... In the "Actions" section go to the lock -> Device Variables... my Kwiksets have a "LAST_UNLOCKED_BY" variable that you could use... When lock is unlocked -> if last_unlocked_by equal to 99999 -> sound the alarm If you can't find it let me know and I'll fire up a virtual director with the Yale driver and see what I can find.
  14. I've never done Fibaro, and 30 seconds of Googling didn't do much to enlighten me - what Control4 driver are you using to control the one outlet? Chances are that your dealer will need to install one copy of the driver per outlet you want to control - that's usually how outlets/lights/etc. work. For your windows - do you have an existing sensor or something on them that would be able to signal Control4 (or anything, really) that the window is open or closed? For example, my windows have sensors that are connected to the alarm, and then the alarm is connected to my Control4 system - so every door and window appears in the C4 app with open/closed status.
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