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livitup

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livitup last won the day on May 25 2019

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  1. And it sounds like OP is an end user. Composer Pro is only available to authorized dealers, the Home Edition can’t add new devices to a system. One of the remote programming experts on this forum would probably be more than happy to help you out.
  2. Totally agree. I said "fairly serious" and in retrospect that's probably a stretch. For example, I don't believe the room will have acoustic treatments, and the music is secondary to its primary use as a home office. However, the existing ceiling speakers aren't cutting it. I'm also trying to figure out what the sources are going to be. Unless the playback is coming from CDs, lossless rips, or something similar, the SQ lost through compression is going to matter a lot more than the amplifier. Thanks again to all for your comments!
  3. Bless you both. My Google-fu was weak today. Zaphoid - funny, the article Mitch linked noticed the same thing. Probably because CI installers are used to it. Does seem odd for a product designed to be placed outside the rack.
  4. I’m looking for any published independent third party review of the Triad One. My Googling shows plenty of Control4 or Dealer promo materials/blogs/“articles” that are really ads/etc. but nothing like you can find for most home A/V gear. I’ve heard one myself and I was impressed, but that was just gut feel. I’m in a situation where it would be convenient to use one for a fairly serious listening room - a home office where a pair of > $1000 speakers will be put in place. I’d like to know how well I could expect the Triad One to compare against something from the likes of Cambridge, Audiolab, or Rega. Thanks!
  5. For black that’s correct. Silver ones come out sooner... they are saying “late November”.
  6. Option 4: Start the music in one room and use the "Digital Audio" driver (which is automatically installed in every project) to "Join" the other rooms into the session. In programming, after you have started the music, look on the right side for "Digital Audio" and in the commands section you will be able to add additional zones to the existing "session" active in the first room. This is the least intuitive way to do it, but IMHO also the "cleanest" from a Control4 programming perspective.
  7. Yesterday, at Snap's "live" event. Also the "chime" doorbell that looks a lot like a Ring, and in-wall power outlets, outdoor plugs, and probably a few other things I'm forgetting right now.
  8. Ask your dealer about a Triad One. Streaming amplifier that talks to a Control4 Controller over Ethernet. It’s an awesome piece of equipment!
  9. Granted I'm not entirely sure I am using the CEDIA website correctly (every company seems to have somewhat free reign on what to do in their "virtual booth" and I can't guarantee I'm not missing something) but SnapAV did post a "What's new 2020" document, and it doesn't really have anything new for Control4. There's recaps of the OS3 updates up to 3.1.3, Neeo Remote, Intercom Anywhere (nothing new about that), and essential lighting. Plenty of new partnerships bring "new to Snap" products to the Snap store, but nothing really exciting that I can spot for Control4 people. If someone else can find stuff, please feel free to correct me! ETA: There is a "What's hot" presentation this afternoon that I just registered for - maybe news there? There was one in the morning, but I missed it and I can't find any option to watch a recording of it (if a recording exists).
  10. I didn't know... I've just been using the HL one. Just searched the DB for Control4 as manufacturer... only thing that might be close is AV Local Source?
  11. 1) Control4 can absolutely do large systems, but the controller needs to be appropriately sized to do the job. I have ~ 100 zigbee devices, 8 zones of distributed audio, 15 zones of distributed audio, 4 garage doors, 8 cameras, a door station, etc. etc. etc. Make sure your Zigbee mesh is not too large, make sure your controller is not too small, etc. If you're struggling, get a dealer to check out your system. 2) That is surprising. Generally bound connections are the best. This points towards either a misconfigured scene, or an overloaded or incomplete Zigbee mesh (or perhaps interference - WiFI channels overlap with Zigbee - again Control4 makes smart default settings, but should always be verified on site). There's a surprisingly large amount of engineering/design that should be done for Zigbee. The fact that it works out of the box for small to medium size deployments can lull designers and installers into a false sense of complacency.
  12. Your computer isn't detecting the controller - either you are on a different VLAN or the controller is offline. Disconnected in the bottom corner is normal until you have actually connected to the controller to manage it. If the controller was showing up in the list and you hit "Connect" that would turn to Green/Connected. If you know the IP address of the controller, you can click 'add' and manually add the controller to the list. Check your controller's network connection, check your computer's network connection, etc. If the controller was moved from another network it may need its network settings reset.
  13. Think of connections as the virtual representation of the physical wires that run to and from your system. There is an HDMI cable between your Roku (or cable box or whatever) and your AVR, and another HDMI cable between your AVR and your TV. Both of these would be configured in Control4's connections - the HDMI out from your Roku would be connected to the input on the AVR, and the HDMI out from the AVR would be connected to the input on the TV. With lighting, connections allow installers to "bind" a light switch or dimmer to more loads than the locally wired load, or to bind keypads, etc. that don't even have a load wired to them to control lights. The lighting scenes created in the Advanced Lighting Agent also expose a connection point, in the same vein as the HDMI on the back of the TV. Likewise with the light switches and keypads. So if I use the connections tab to link the output of a keypad button with the input of an advanced lighting scene, that button on the keypad now controls the lights. The connections/binding method is generally viewed as slightly more reliable, quicker to activate/deactivate, and more likely to "just work". However, as you know, the downside is that they can't be modified with Composer HE. You can change the contents of the scene, but you can't remove or add the scene from a button. The same end effect can be done with programming: "when the button is tapped, then active scene x." This takes slightly more processing power however, and in a very busy system can seem very slightly laggy.
  14. You won’t be able to rename devices, but you should for sure be able to connect to your local controller. Post the exact error message you’re getting or, even better yet a screenshot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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