Jump to content


c4Forums Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


livitup last won the day on May 25

livitup had the most liked content!

About livitup

  • Rank
    Control4 End User

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. You can create an any number of Advanced Lighting Scenes, and favorite as many of them as you want, but you’re correct - the sliders are gone in the 3.0 OSD. This should not have been a surprise to any dealer that was paying attention. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Mine are working... Genie 2 and the 4k minis.
  3. Correct. If there are any HC-250s in the project, the upgrade tool will abort. They must be entirely removed from the project in order to upgrade to 3.0. You can have an HC-800 as your main controller running 3.0, but the video output will be disabled. You can not have HC-250s in the project running 2.10 while the HC-800 director is running 3.0. If you need wireless IR, the Control4 Zigbee to IO (Z2IO) is a great alternative. It provides 2 IR outputs and requires only power (5v DC through USB, wall adapter included).
  4. There is a supported QMotion driver. Obviously not sure what one is in your project, but worst case your dealer will have to swap out the blind driver as part of your upgrade. (But if I were a betting man, I’d say you already have the compatible driver installed.) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. There are two Concord4 drivers, one old one and one new one. If your GUI has the “big round button” on the alarm page, you’re using the new one. The new one will continue to work. If you’re still on the old one, a dealer can swap out the driver as part of the upgrade process. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. If any of the following are in the project, the upgrade will be blocked until they are removed: Controllers (1): HC-250 Touch Screens (5): 7" In-Wall v2, 7" Portable v2, 5" In-Wall (FKA: Infinity Edge), 7" In-Wall (FKA: Infinity Edge), 7" In-Wall RevB (FKA: Infinity Edge) Door Stations (2): Exterior Door Station, Interior Door Station AV (1): Speaker Point IP cameras that utilize the Camera Proxy v1 WakeUp agent (can be replaced with the Wakeup/Goodnight agent) Security systems that utilize V1 Security drivers Blinds that utilize the Blinds v2 proxy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. There's a publicly accessible interface to the driver database search. This will get you all the Experience Buttons in the C4 database, (and a few random non-Experience buttons) there are others available for a charge from 3rd party driver developers... https://drivers.control4.com/solr/drivers/browse?&q=&fq=primaryProxy:"uibutton"
  8. IFTTT is disabling all the GMail actions and triggers other than “Send an email” and “Send yourself an email,” due to API changes on Google’s side to address privacy concerns. If you’re currently using any inbound (send an email and C4 does something) or other similar stuff, with Alan’s IFTTT driver, it’s going to stop working soon. More details: https://www.androidpolice.com/2019/03/22/most-ifttt-applets-using-gmail-will-break-this-month/
  9. I always Velcro them to the back of the TV. Keeps the cables nice and short and everything neat and tidy. Also makes the balun less likely to get moved around.
  10. It’s been my personal and professional experience that if you breathe on them wrong they fry. I purposely avoid touching the ones in my own house because I’m afraid of frying them. Not sure if it’s something about the voltages in HD-BaseT or the Leaf baluns specifically, but yeah. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. 1) The blinking green light comes on regardless of the HDMI being plugged into the TV. The solid green light seems to be a "good path" light - it only comes on when a valid source is switched to a valid destination and both sides are connected. 2) Yes, the blinking green light should come on within seconds of connecting. 3) If you're plugging a 1m Cat5e or better cable directly between the balun and the matrix and you don't get a green light, then the balun is blown. 4) Good 5) Banana peels are an insulator. Might try tying a river otter to the cable - water is conductive so could help. 6) The balun is bad/blown 7) The balun is bad/blown 8. No. When mine went bad they showed the orange light. If it's within the warranty period, C4 will replace it under RMA. If it's outside the warranty period then you need to buy a new balun. Are you a dealer and/or working with a dealer? If not let me know if I can help you out getting support involved. And actually, that brings up a good point - has anyone reached out to C4 support about this yet?
  12. Is it the Downmixing version (a -D in the part number)? Rooms that only have the in ceiling speakers it's simple... bind the "Video's Audio" to the last controllable device. Sounds like that should be the AVR. How do you have the AVR physically connected to the video matrix? In rooms where there is a soundbar it's more complex. Control4 doesn't really handle this well - the best solutions is to use two rooms per Unsocialtoaster's suggestion. The down-mixing Leaf matrixes have the ability to split out audio, convert it to two channel stereo, add a configurable amount of delay, and spit it out a pair of RCA outputs. This is the only satisfactory solution I've ever found to this situation, it's the one I use in my house, and the only one I'll support with clients.
  13. Wow, this blew up since my original reply... I think I am caught up. Here's what I can tell you about the status lights on the balun: With the TV off, but the balun properly connected to the matrix you should have one blinking green light. With the TV on and a good path from source, through the matrix, and to the TV you should have the same blinking light and a solid green light. Note that unplugging the HDMI from the TV to the balun will result in you not getting the solid green light. The solid green light seems to indicate successful path all the way from the TV to the source. If you're getting an amber light, that has nothing to do with the TV. When I unplugged the HDMI cable from one of my baluns, I still had the blinking green light. The only thing I didn't try was deleting the binding in Composer, but as long as you have some TV bound to the output of the matrix you should be able to at least get a blinking green light. Is there any combination at all that gives you a blinking green light at this point? I'll close this message with two thoughts... 1) They did have a really bad batch of these baluns... I bought 8 just over a year ago and had 3 or 4 of them go bad. The bad ones make a pretty loud hissing noise from inside. 2) Control4 warns installers in about 5 different places to ensure EVERYTHING is powered off when you connect/disconnect ANYTHING from a Leaf matrix, and they specifically forbid the use of the "EZ" style of RJ45 connectors. There's something about the electronics in these things that's ultra sensitive to spikes. So be careful during your testing to make sure you don't blow the damn thing. If you can get a blinking green light with any cable, then we should be able to figure this out...
  14. Use "SET LED CURRENT" and it should work for you. Also, make sure the button's LED BEHAVIOR is set to "Programmed" on the Keypad's properties page in the Monitoring screen.
  • Create New...