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About Suresoft

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    Control4 End User

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  • Location
    South Africa
  • Interests
    Anything to do with automation

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  1. I have had the vera and its slow and not guarenteed to turn on/off a device. Guess its zwave mesh needs to be strong as well. But the time delay is the real no go for me. Took it out and got more c4 dimmers. All works seamlessly as i wanted now. Worth the extra on c4 hardware for speed
  2. Ok yeah - in South Africa we have the second version urtsII that's rs485, presumably to get the unit out the rack and into the home to use up as much of the 27m range as possible. Rs232 limited to max 25m from end to end but I'm sure with decent screened cable this can be pushed as I have done successfully before.
  3. 27m with thick walls will do the same damage to range. In your scenario maybe best to go for multiple mylinks. Cost of somfy drapes etc compared to mylink device. Not much to go with It. And simple app for it helps. The local c4 guys all fail on the higher end stuff in South Africa. My experience mylink for the win. The urt device from states not sure if that's the older one or newer one. We only have the black coloured new one here.
  4. That unit is far more complicated in that you need to convert RS232 to RS485. The mylink works as an option with multiple units. You don't have to have just one. Design is 1 per room I just maxed it's capabilities to stick with 1 unit to save costs.
  5. The drivers for the unit are off the somfy website and programmed by domosapiens if I'm not mistaken so pretty much the same as the paid driver excluding the percentage open/close option of the paid.
  6. I haven't had any issues and it's been 2 years now. Most cost effective route I could take. Mounted the unit in the roof to get more range out of it. If I send multiple commands all the curtains seem to respond at the same time. No issues in having to wait between commands. Nice thing is I set the schedule on the somfy app so even if c4 fails curtains are standalone. So it's best of both. Only issue is the unit has poor Wi-Fi range so had to mount an access point next to it. That's the only issue I had.
  7. Btw you only need the vpn to download the app. After that no need for it.
  8. You need the app to setup the mylink. It's off the app store. Just search mylink
  9. The mylink isn't for outside the US. I had to install the app on my phone with a VPN to get region setting. Also they only 110V and UK and SA use 220 so have to put an auto transformer. Does work tho and for me cheapest solution.
  10. Hi all. I was wondering if there is a Modbus driver that would work with this module. It has Modbus TCP/IP. Pretty powerfull/cheap and user friendly. Anyone done something like this before? what options are available to incorporate. Some guidance would be greatly appreciated. module is a standard Siemens LOGO 8 FS4 cheers
  11. Hi. I went the cheapest route and used the Wi-Fi module mysomy. Range is an issue on it so if you have multiple rooms you going to need multiple units. Wi-Fi range to them is an issue too - ended up mounting next to the Wi-Fi router. Works for me though.
  12. Hi there I have an issue. all documents don't really explain the steps for integration simply. I have the remote setup for 11 blinds and it works. the RTS module is installed and powered. when the dial is changed and the button pressed it lights up but nothing happens on any blind. is there an easy step by step method. I have confirmed that data is leaving the EA3 but need to know how to confirm the RTS unit is functioning correctly. seemed that in the manuals the button should jog the motor. anyone tried and succeeded? thanks
  13. I know serial max transfer is 20 meters. try proper shielded cable not just the twisted pair. I haven't had issues with cat5 in industrial applications though so doubt it's the twisted pair. you have a soldering iron, and make sure your ugly connections are solid connections. else I've had weird comm's issues before where noise gets into the comm's cable that's why say try shielded.
  14. I searched every supplier here. For some reason Control4 uses a non standard interface. Well maybe that's in South Africa. I could have maybe bought a multi format one but i have never had any joy with those as the connection is never really a truly solid one. So with my skill-set it was a far more reliable option to change to something readily available and Meanwell PSU's are really good quality. Also the cost of the PSU was about $35 and the female like $1. Not sure what an original replacement PSU would cost.
  15. I bought a meanwell PSU thats 19V and above the rated amperage. After i had sourced a viable power supply i then asked the components store to supply me with the female that goes with it for surface mount on a PCB. Thats how i got my hands on it. The PCB on the HC800 has a lot of solder to support the female so be ready to turn the soldering iron to max and wait for the heat soak to set in. Slow process but at least power supply is an off the shelf unit now.
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