rea

Sorry to hear the primary reason behind the delay, Ari, and appreciate the update on the status.

On this thread, I'm still more concerned with what has happened to the Sleep Number driver. It sounded promising back in November but still nothing.

I have two Sony TVs in my project and have been having worsening issues with IP control of them in the last few weeks. They generally respond immediately to the command to turn them on, but once they are on, they become unresponsive to control via C4 for some period of time. It's usually 30s to a minute, but sometimes is up to several minutes on the home screen with no response. To make matters worse, once the TV starts responding on the home screen, it seems to have the same issue as soon as I open a streaming app. If the TV has been on for over 10-15 minutes, they seem to work just fine again. I've had one of the TVs (X95H) for a few years and it never had issues until the last month or two. I just had the other (A80L) installed in the last month and it's not quite as bad as the X95H, but still has similar issues. -I'm using Neeos with both and have confirmed they are not the issue--TVs will also not respond to commands from the app on my phone. -Both TVs will respond immediately to the factory remote. -I've rebooted both TVs and they appear to be on the latest firmware. -I've rebooted my EA5 and that didn't seem to fix the issue. -Both TVs have DHCP reservations on the network. -They seem to be the only devices having this issue--no problems with areas using Rokus -I know the X95H is on Simple IP control in the settings Anyone else having issues with their Sony TVs? I saw at least one post from earlier last year that there were some Sony IP control issues. Any help/advice would be much appreciated.

As far as the outdoor plugs go and the cold, I have had multiple Kasa outdoor plugs set up controlling some string lights and a few other things for the past few years. I routinely have sub-zero temps in the winter and one of mine was even buried in snow for a good couple of months this past winter. I've never had a single issue with mine...hard to beat them for the price and with how good the driver is for them.

Would definitely love to try this driver out!

Another vote for the Kasa outlets. I have several and they work great with C4 and have been very reliable. As mentioned above, being able to add new Kasa products in Composer HE without a dealer makes them even easier and effectively cheaper than most other options. Amazon routinely has great deals on multi-packs of the plugs too. Just be aware that TP-Link has two different lines of products on Amazon: Kasa and Tapo. Someone else may be able to confirm, but the driver seems to be specifically for the Kasa branded products (I've never tried any of the Tapo products).

To extrapolate on what @msgreenf said: If you're using the same programming for multiple things, it is pretty easy to just copy and paste programming over in C4 HE. But, if 6 months from now you decide to change something in your programming, by using the macro you can just go into the macro programming and modify the programming. Everything that uses it changes. If you copy and paste to all your actions, you have to go into each action and edit your programming and it's pretty easy to forget some of the places you used said programming once it becomes automated. It's a similar rationale to creating advanced lighting scenes and programming against those instead of just having an action modify several lights individually in programming.

Whatever you do, I'd recommend coming up with something to automate/control better. I have heat cables as well and initially thought it was a great idea to have a thermostat controlled switch and, being a newbie to the mountains, I didn't realize it just stays cold where I live all the time during the winter and the heat cables ran basically all winter. After running through my electric bills, I bypassed the thermostat control and just put the heat cables on a manual controlled C4 switch that I have setup on a 4 hour run-timer that I turn on when it snows. My electric bill during the winter months is now half what it was. Those things draw a lot of power. I've thought about programming it against the weather app as well, but I've found that where I live the weather apps are generally not very representative of my actual weather--a few miles each way makes a big difference in the mountains. Just something to consider depending on where you live.

So I finally grabbed a Flic button to play around with and really like them. The only problem is that in all my testing, I cannot get the Flic 2 to work via IFTTT with a Pushover notification sent to C4. I use the IFTTT driver for many things and use Pushover for location tracking for me and my wife. Every time I try and create an applet in IFTTT with FLIC and Pushover it tells me there is an error. Has anyone had any luck using one of these with IFTTT and C4? Seems to work great with other 3rd party drivers and I've used it to control C4 settings via Alexa routines, but much more powerful if I can send a Pushover notification and program off of that within C4.

Any progress/update on this driver?

To do this with IFTTT, I have it set up so that each person you want to "track" in your household has a separate IFTTT account and then you would need a separate iteration of the driver in your C4 project (can add as many as you want with your license). Then you would set up variables for each user and use those to allow C4 to determine if everyone is gone/at home or only a selected person. Once you have that done, you can basically program anything you want off the variables.

Any updates as to when this driver will be available?

Would definitely be interested in this as well.

This has happened with the TP-Link bulbs I have added into my project with the Chowmain driver as well so may just be a "feature" as suggested above. That being said, you can remove them from your navigator in Composer HE. Click on the Room in the Monitoring tab, put it to the Properties view and then click on the Navigator tab. Click on Lights in the Experience Menus box and then modify. It'll bring up a dialog box where you can hide (or add) lights from viewing in the Navigator. Then just make sure to Refresh Navigators. Should at least save you a few bucks on having your dealer remote in to do that.

Actually to further spell this out in your scenario, it would be easier to just demonstrate for your two room scenario: Kitchen Area On: ?If Room B Power is Off ----Set Room C>CURRENT SELECTED DEVICE to the value of Kitchen>CURRENT SELECTED DEVICE ----Set Room B>CURRENT SELECTED DEVICE to the value of Kitchen>CURRENT SELECTED DEVICE ----Add rooms "Room B, Room C" to Kitchen session (This seems only necessary if you're using one of the C4 built in streaming services. For some reason the above code line never works with my Deezer so throw this in if your audio isn't working) ----STOP ?If Room B Power is On ----Turn Off Room C ----Turn Off Room B ----Stop

If you don't have the Room Control Driver or don't know how to use it (I've never really figured out how to use it), I think you could achieve this by using room variables as well. I.e., Programming for a custom button should work with something like this for "Room B." (Would just need to add additional lines of programming in for the other rooms). I use an experience button for a Great Room/Kitchen combo on my Neeo for this same purpose and it works flawlessly. Kitchen Area On: ?If Room B Power is Off ----Set Room B>CURRENT SELECTED DEVICE to the value of Kitchen>CURRENT SELECTED DEVICE ----Add rooms "Room B" to Kitchen session (This seems only necessary if you're using one of the C4 built in streaming services. For some reason the above code line never works with my Deezer so throw this in if your audio isn't working) ----STOP ?If Room B Power is On ----Turn Off Room B ----Stop This should allow to to toggle your other zones from your kitchen "master zone."

I haven't had any issues with my August locks and C4. I have one of the older August Smart Lock Pros and one of the newer August Wifi Smart locks. I do have issues with the one with built-in Wifi losing connection to my network, but not with C4.

I have also had this happening over the last two weeks. Before, it seemed like the first time I'd use Alexa on any given day it would be slow to respond and give me the "device is not responding" message, but then work on subsequent commands The last couple of weeks, I've been getting the "device is not responding" every time and with essentially all commands. Luckily, the action still seems to be working every time so more of an annoyance than a complete loss of function.

It may help to make this a "routine" in Alexa that triggers your voice scene. If you do that, you can avoid the "turn on" part of the command and change it to something like, "Alexa, it's movie time," or just, "Alexa, movie time." Routines seem to respond faster as Alexa isn't trying to hunt for which service it needs to use in my experience.

The EA1 is definitely not obsolete--I have 2 of them running in my project and they were released in 2016 at the same time as the EA3. That being said, the EA1 is not necessarily the best controller to do multi-room audio with as it only has HDMI out and can only stream from one source at a time. It sounds like your tech/dealer is not communicating well with you or, possibly, misleading you and not doing a good job of programming. I would get in touch with one of the excellent remote programmers on here and have them take a look at your system: @chopedogg88 and @AK1 are just two of the many great ones on here.

I'm not sure how big of a project you're looking at, but the TP-Link Kasa ones are nice--might get a little pricey if you're planning to use a lot of them. They integrate with the excellent Kasa driver from @alanchow that you can then use for any number of their other products, too.

I have an iPad mounted with one of the iPort LuxePort mounts, which is really nice since you can pull the iPad off to do "tablet things" if you want as well. I had no idea about the charge management feature in iOS now...will have to turn that on for my iPad for sure! My first iPad definitely had the battery swell issue. I hooked my new one up to a TP-Link Wifi switch that I keep on a schedule so that the battery discharges a fair amount each day. This seems to have a helped a lot--no swell in 2 years.

Completely agree. I have a few of these that I got in 2017 and all have the screen issue. I've replaced a couple with Neeos and like those, but didn't find out about this replacement program until I saw it on here...the day after it ended. My dealer who installed my system and sold me the SR260s never once mentioned this to me.

Anything that you're aware of that doesn't require a 120V standard switch to already be in place? Like I mentioned, most of my keypads are part of a panelized system so are all low voltage.

I really wish C4 would make something like this...particularly for those of us with panelized lighting where most of our keypads are low voltage runs and wouldn't support a third-party product like this. Something like this would be nice in a couple areas where you don't have room or don't want a touchscreen for some extra A/V and scene controls.