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  1. I have programming for my Nest Protects too, I’m hoping they add support them in the new driver before I am forced to migrate to a Google account.
  2. It’s been a couple months (and I removed it after conversion) but I think I used an app called dBpoweramp which supported batch conversion. I was able to point it to a parent folder and have it convert everything underneath. I had everything organized so I had it put the converted files in the source directory then wrote a quick bash script to find and delete the M4A files. https://www.dbpoweramp.com/dmc.htm
  3. Curious if you are seeing the same problem I was seeing a few months ago. Like you I suspected the track was corrupted somehow as the vast majority of my library was M4A, and some tracks even writhing a single album played and others refused via C4. I was using DLNA rather than NAS but sounds similar. Out of desperation I converting one of the problematic M4A tracks to MP3 and it played just fine. Ultimately I ended up converting all my M4A tracks to MP3 with equivalent compression and left my FLAC files alone. This ended up solving the problem for me. While ultimately a workaround I didn’t have the energy to pursue it further since everything is working fine now.
  4. Is there a way to program audio "playlists" using the DLNA driver? I have scoured this forum and HE, but not finding much. It seems that you can program via "album" in HE with the DLNA driver, and you favorite playlists to the home screen of a room, but I can't seem to figure out the last mile if you will. An alternative would be to use Amazon music, but I am not seeing much there either. Old posts show that this is possible with Spotify but haven't been able to track anything down for Amazon Music.
  5. I'm having a slightly different problem, all of my T3's have the echo chime settings unchecked and greyed out in HE. However, just one of them plays the 3 beep echo calibration on startup. I tried using the "apply to..." button to apply the settings from a T3 that doesn't perform the calibration but no dice.
  6. Same, I bought and LG (OLED55B9PUA) and IP Control has been working great. I tried it using a wired connection and WiFi. The wired connection is more responsive and connects almost immediately, where on WiFi it would take a couple of extra seconds. Recommend wired where possible.
  7. For what it’s worth the solution that worked best for me was to use Twonky on an always on Mac and point it against a folder containing my library and another for FLAC. I configure the Music app(formerly iTunes) to auto-download purchases so new music is available almost instantly regardless of the device it was purchased on. And Twonky aggregates the FLAC and Non-FLAC media so everything shows up under the same artist. I can then create playlists in the Music app and export them to a folder that Twonky is monitoring to have them in C4. The performance (specifically album art load times) and “search” capabilities of Twonky made it far superior to the DLNA servers I was able to run on my NAS directly. I also had a number of volume related issues with the iTunes driver, which led me down the DLNA path originally. If you need your library on a NAS, you could just have a mounted drive on your PC/Mac to your NAS and just have Twonky point to that.
  8. Nice find Mitch, that may be exactly what I am looking for. Will have to read up on the documentation included with the driver.
  9. I recently had some engraved buttons ordered, and finally began using the backlight on all my switches. After much tweaking they largely work like I'd expect, though I have seen some substantial variances in detected light been switches of the same variety in the same dual-gang box. What I'd like to see is being able to bind switches to a common sensor so they all work in unison, but are still able to function dynamically. This should also help with switches that are next to each other but have different colors because one in dimmer that the other (poking around the back catalog of posts it seems that is a pretty common scenario too).
  10. Maybe try using the light sensor cover with the black bar on them. I've had keypads with a backlit key in the #6 position that produces enough light for keypads to ever go dark. The black bar should make it less sensitive, you'll likely meed to play with the dim/dark values after installing it through so that it still works like you expect.
  11. Thank you @WholeHomeControl, somehow the "follow load" checkbox was unchecked. I was familiar with the "follow load" option for keypads, forward phase dimmers, etc. Didn't realize regular old switches had it too. Face meet palm. Cheers!
  12. Yesterday I noticed an odd issue where one of my switches (C4-SW120277) stopped showing the status lights. The backlights are functioning fine, and if I perform a 15 press reboot I see the status lights flash green several times so it doesn't appear to be broken per se. The switch itself if functioning fine, passing load, and the light sensor is reading current levels properly per HE. I have also set the minimum status lights level on the status LEDs absurdly high, additionally I have flipped the breaker to that area to remove power for a considerable amount of time as yet another test. Anyone ever seen this behavior before? Not sure what other troubleshooting steps to take, as it seems more software than hardware related at this point.
  13. Thanks for the confirmation Mitch. Glad I didn’t miss anything.
  14. When using the Chowmain Bond driver, is there anyway to reduce the number of fan speeds the C4 UI shows? My fans display 7 speeds but my fans only support 3, the Bond bridge identified them correctly as well. Using Composer HE I can only set the default on speed and don’t see any other knobs to turn. So far I just automated around it, any speed greater than 3 just sets the speed back to 3 (high).
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