Home Theater Advisors

If you are running an OS compatible with Neeo (I think 3.1 or later, but not positive), it is very easy. You can set it up yourself - all you do is follow the onscreen prompts and connect it to the network and it self-configures. No dealer interaction is required to be honest.

I know you solved this, but another option is to set a long timer (like 2 hours) - when wake up executes ? If daytime open blinds ? If nighttime start timer - at sunrise ? If timer is running - open blinds - stop timer Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So far i really like the sr260 onscreen volume indicator and the MUCH faster app loading, particularly when on WiFi (1-2 secs(. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is a configurable keypad. It can not directly connect to a load. It is used to wirelessly control other lighting devices and smart home functionality. So as a 'slave' in a 3 way or 4 way, it is a great upgrade from the KA since it can do way more than a KA. Be aware that it requires power, and many slave locations do not have a live power, although often the electrician can use the traveler wire to bring power to the box from the main load location.

Looks like they have not put the air gap bar back in. That bar is used to cut power to the light fixture so you can safely change bulbs etc. they can be ordered from c4 by your dealer in 10 packs if you can’t find it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been using up an entire set of the custom buttons for AVR modes. The key ones we use are (Marantz): - Stereo - Multi-Channel Stereo - Dolby pro Logic - Dolby Surround (Iforget what the basic dolby setting is called)

When door unlocks ? If user code is equal to (insert code) -> activate lighting scene. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wish it was dirt cheap. I know I’d have a bit less lag and over better performance with a faster connection, but my ISP hasn’t been looking too cheap to upgrade. Although I probably haven’t looked in a year or so. Might be a good time to see what kind of deals are out there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like new router is the way to go. Others here have given great advice on product selection. Best of luck! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We're (basically) on the same page. Yes, upgrading the router will help. But without doing the wi-fi, it won't help much (will only help wired devices). And yep, that was clearly a typo :). I usually take the approach that if real world performance is there (and I used streaming as an example, I also used downloading files as an example), why upgrade? Just so you have a BSD? OK, for some people that is a good reason. But to go spend money on a new router and pay someone to configure and install it, if he isn't experiencing any real-world issues, it may not be the best use of money. However, he has made it clear he wants to be able to run a speedtest and see that 1gbps. OK, you'll need a new router for that. And if he is experiencing any real world issues (as I enumerated earlier), then a new router will definitely help. I just don't believe in spending money to upgrade hardware if the client isn't going to see a performance improvement (or it will be minimal or undetected in real world). It's hard to tell in this case if he will - we do not know what the current performance is for gaming, downloading, streaming, etc. Is he experiencing any issues hardwired or on 5ghz with strong signal? If so, then new router. If not, I personally think it is a waste of money and wouldn't recommend it for my friends. But, as i said, he's the client - his money, his home. If that is what he wants, that is what we would do. BTW, I have a 4 person household with 2 teenagers, one who games constantly. I have a 100mbps pipe (with gigabit infrastructure). We have no issues. Everything works great with simultaneous gaming, Zoom meetings and classes, downloading files, etc.

You've got to compare real-world usage. If you are regularly bogging down, streams are pausing, files are not downloading quickly (on wired connections - we've agreed your wifi needs work), then by all means upgrade your router. If wired performance is fine, why go through the hassle and expense of changing the router, other to say you did and to be able to say you have 1gig service? Let's do the math. A 4K stream from netflix uses 25-50gpbs. You can currently have 8-15 concurrent 4K streams. Better yet, let's take a real world example - you download 2gb files for work. How long does that take either wired or on the 5ghz frequency with strong connection? 2 minutes? OK, now it will take 1 minute if you double your WAN-LAN throughput. Yes, that is twice fast. But it is 1 minute. And don't forget, it isn't just your speed, it is the speed of the server you are accessing, it's pipe to the network, network congestion of the file getting to your home, etc,etc. Compare that to the difference of downloading that same file wirelessly using your 2.4ghz wifi. How long does that take? What is the improvement vs 5ghz? Now you can compare which is a 'bigger' issue - your WAN-LAN throughput or your wi-fi configuration. My hypothesis is your Wi-Fi is the bigger issue. Not only that, but I also think it is easier to solve as you don't have to worry about any custom configuration done on your existing router. Changing the router will have ZERO impact on your wi-fi performance, only wired, as your wi-fi seems to be configured pooly currently. You also have to factor in quality of life and the frustration factor of having poor wifi throughout. I guarantee that if you improve your AP configuration your family is going to notice (especially in the far reaches where the currently wifi doesn't reach or is a very weak signal) and is going to shower you with praise. Replace the router only and I'd venture to say they will barely notice. That's my $0.02. That's all it may be worth to you, but that is up to you to decide. {EDIT} One more thing I forgot to mention. If you are looking to do both router and wi-fi, then that will obviously give you best performance. But if you are looking to prioritize one or the other, then upgrading just the Wi-Fi will give you way more improvement than upgrading just the router would. I don't know how anyone can argue with that

Your network should be designed around 5ghz coverage. That means that the APs should be 35-40 feet apart (depends on home layout and obstructions -glass, water, pipes, metal, appliance, etc). 2.4ghz should only be used for devices that can't handle 5ghz. Your biggest issue is your APs. Your router is fine. You can replace it, but you will notice little, if any, improvement going from 500mbps to 1gbps. Nothing you are using can take advantage of those speeds. Setting up additional Araknis APs will take a lot of work and knowledge- setting channels to avoid conflict with each other and with competing systems nearby (and staying up to date with it as neighboring devices change), setting transit signal strength to manage overlap, creating SSIDs and passwords to be sure they match EXACTLY on each AP, etc. You are probably better off replacing your APs completely. I highly recommend Ruckus. We have had great success setting up Ruckus APs for clients and shipping them out them, then walking them through plugging them into ethernet ports throughout the home. Ruckus Unleashed will manage the transmit strength, channel selection, etc automatically. Once it is setup, adding additional APs is as simple as plugging them into an ethernet port on the same network.

Several things going on here. At the time, the 300 series router was the best offered by araknis and it is limited to under 500mbps. That said, you likely don’t need gig speed and likely won’t for many years to come. You may want it because you can get it, but you’re going to spend money l, time and effort to do so. You’ll need a new router and it will need to be reconfigured. The new araknis gig routers are a different architecture and can not take a config from a 300 series. For the access points. You likely need more than 2 to cover a home of that size, let alone the outside. There really isn’t such a thing as a ‘more powerful’ access point. There is a limit to the broadcast strength any AP can put out. APs have a coverage of about a 20-25’ radius (roughly 1300sf circle). So you should have an AP every 35-45 feet to provide coverage and reduce dead zones. Depending on your home’s configuration you probably need 3-6 APs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mitch is right. Your new router has a different IP scheme (or the Denon was on a DHCP reservation that was in the old router. He can help you fix it. Lesson learned - never change anything in your network without your dealer being involved.

According to the install instructions, you can jump the neutral with the switch leg. See figure 5 in the attached Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Known issue with a sub component within the wattbox. Half of the outlets fail. You will soon lose all 6 of those outlets permanently. Be sure your dealer brings a new one with him. Snap will issue an RMA, no problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Honestly, an echo dot is $40. Why wouldn’t you want to do it ‘right’ for that cost? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I really can’t answer the question about the $99 part, except what could it hurt to try other than time. As a professional installers I wouldn’t use it because I only use tried and trusted equipment. But if you are DIYing this then it is just your time wasted if it doesn’t work. As for staying in sync, I believe they do. We haven’t really done a scaler on a tv where it is in ear shot of others, that i can think of. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Or you can get a scaler that will trick the matrix into seeing the 1080p tv as a 4K display so the matrix outputs 4K. The scaler will then take the 4K signal it gets and scale it down to 1080p for the tv to display it. His is the best way to handle this situation, aside from getting a new tv. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can also get a scaler to go behind the 1080p tv to ‘trick’ the matrix into thinking all tvs are 4K. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I made the assumption we were talking about copper. Fiber is a different story. From what i have seen, People typically call out that they talking about fiber as that is not yet the norm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

And nothing will over 50ft HDMIs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Room off won’t turn the tv off, because Control4 doesn’t think the tv is on so it won’t try to turn it off. You would need to select a watch source and then press room off However, once you turn off CEC, you shouldn’t have this issue. Go through every device you have in the system and ensure CEC is off. CEC is the enemy of automation systems. Turn It off on your tv, AVR, blu-day player, etc. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Go to the programming tab Select the room Select Audio Selection changed Go to programming side and select room, conditionals tab below, audio devices selected is spotify connect driver and add to programming Expand 'room variables' under the room name select "Current_Volume" and enter volume you want the room to go below Add to programming under the room selection conditional

The only thing that will be odd is if you do use the presets in the control4 interface - the presets are by account (I believe) so each room will have different presets (or you'll need to do the presets 8 times - once for each room)