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FaraDayLight

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About FaraDayLight

  • Birthday July 23

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    Maui

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  1. I think this is due to the fact you're using all 6 buttons on the left and the sensor is catching some of the backlight. On another thread, someone said it doesn't seem to be a problem when using the Up/Down buttons. I've noticed it's a problem on the fan control, which seems to have a bottom backlit button as well. I think it may be a design flaw. With my engravings came a bottom ambient light bar that had a piece of black plastic instead of clear. I believe this is provided for this specific purpose. I literally just tested this and noticed it blocks most of the light. I had to put the flashlight of my phone directly up to the sensor to get it to saturate. With the clear bar, it would max out depending on the color of my backlight. If I used a red backlight, the sensor seemed to work normally. When I used an aqua backlight or white, the sensor was saturated.
  2. Cool Automation's CoolMasterNet seems to work pretty well. After a little configuration it even includes the ability to control every room of a multi-zone system remotely with a mobile app. Integration is really easy and the driver can be pulled in via SDDP. So far I've done it with one Mitsubishi Electric Multi-City system with 7 zones and two water heater zones. I'm about to do it on a similar 12 Zone ME system in a week or so. The MNet bus hooks up to a specific set of terminals and then communicates with C4 via Ethernet. It's a breeze compared to some of these serial to 485 interfaces some systems have. This CoolMasterNet can be configured for Fujitsu, Daikin as well as just about any other Comm Bus controlled units. For the typical T-stat replacement, just use C4 or Nest TStats. https://coolautomation.com/
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