cdcllc

Another Annex4 driver user for several years. I have 4 different model LG's and all have worked perfectly for several years - 1 is an OLED.

I'm not sure you are going to be able to do this yourself. You need to know which temperature sensor C4 is using, then you need to know how physically C4 connects to the Daikin system to set the HVAC system mode, on/off, etc. In my system, the wall thermostat / HVAC controller for my HVAC system was replaced with a C4 thermostat / HVAC controller that connects to my EA-5 via the zigbee network. The C4 thermostat / HVAC controller is then physically wired to the HVAC system. But there are a lot of alternative methods to get this job done and you need to know how your specific control was implemented. If you want to try a potentially less expensive solution, perhaps you could hire one of the remote support folks on here to help you debug - there are several great folks on here. Otherwise, I think it's a callout.

What thermostat are you using?

I'm in my 7th year with Control4. I use it to control AV, lighting, hurricane shades, security, garage doors, ceiling fans, fireplace and HVAC. I didn't go through a home automation selection process because C4/dealer is who the builder worked with the most and recommended. And this is my first experience in home automation. I guess I got pretty lucky because we love the system (including my non-technical wife). The dealer also did the network, security system w/cameras (and central vac). We've kept it up to date and added functionality as we've gone along. Here's a few things that may help: If you are into technical DIY, you really need to understand the dealer model before going C4. I am into technical DIY, but I wouldn't want to be without a dealer; the breadth and depth of the home automation space is just too wide and deep for me to want to "go it alone". Yes, dealers can only do certain work (i.e. you cannot) and get paid to do it, but there is an ROI because of their knowledge and experience. But C4 also allows you to do a lot on your own too. Get a detail install plan from your dealer prior to construction start and spend time understanding it before approving. Our dealer used the house CAD drawings to produce a network/security/HVAC plan, AV plan, lighting plan. etc. I learned a lot about the system through review and discussion of the drawings with the dealer. And neither I nor my dealer had any surprises! We spent time on planning the rack space - making sure we had adequate space (we moved a wall a couple of feet pre-build), HVAC supply (we needed an additional air duct run added to the HVAC plan) and dedicated circuit to the rack (a new circuit added to the electrical build plan). If you want great integration to C4, you need to select components that have great C4 integration capabilities already built. C4 has a very wide range of robust product integrations, but it is impossible for anyone to integrate well with everything. You basically find you have a new requirement when selecting a TV, AV receiver, HVAC system, etc. etc. etc. - how good is the C4 integration. This forum has great people that know what they are doing and want to help. I'm really happy I found it early on and have received great help. The folks on here have been a great supplement to my dealer. I haven't had a dealer truck-roll in years! Good for both of us. Good luck with your process and home build. C4 does a great job and coupled with the right dealer, builder, architect and planning, you will be very happy with your choice!

@IntrinsicGroup This is wonderful news and very good to hear. I started out with the old MyQ driver and had to implement relays and contact sensors once that solution stopped working. I know folks are worried about the company and potential longevity of the solution - and I think it's very positive that this is a revenue producing solution for Chamberlain and developed with their cooperation. I'm very curious to hear your take on why you think Chamberlain now wants to do this? Did they reach out to you, or did you propose to them? However it occurred, great job and good luck with the driver!

The boxes offered via our local store and that I installed are the Arris XG1v4's.

2nd the recommendation to go IP. I changed about 3 weeks ago because of continual issues with IR - basically specific button pushes that either wouldn't work at all, would only work sometimes, or would be an unintended result (i.e. in the guide, scroll right, scroll right, then the next press to scroll right moves forward a day). I wish I would have converted years ago. One unexpected result was that halo voice integration with Xfinity worked right out of the box! No additional steps. I worked over months several different times and several hours of work each time to move the IR bud to the "golden" spot. Never found it. I do have 3 Xfinity boxes in the house and one of the reasons holding me back were the 2 "child" boxes. I ended up just getting 3 parent boxes - the monthly cost is the exact same. If you need someone to install the driver, I recommend Mitch @msgreenf - he did mine and it was perfect as usual! *edit - I see you are referring to a client so you wouldn't need Mitch's help, but I'm leaving that in for others that view.

Are you trying to schedule a time of the year for the button to be enabled (i.e. the button only turns the holiday scene on during the XMAS season), or are you trying to schedule a time for the scene to be "on" (i.e. we turn the holiday scene on at 5p and off at 11p during December)? *added ")" at end.

Yes - significantly quicker! I went from MyQ to exactly what Ari is recommending and very glad I did. Ari supplied my Z2IO’s as well. I highly recommend taking him up on his offer - I think you will be very glad you did.

I bit the bullet a long time ago when MyQ integration first failed and implemented a relay, contact sensor and garage door experience button on both doors. Works every time and is available local and remote right from the C4 app. No cloud, no delay, etc. etc. I wish I would have gone with that solution from the beginning when my C4 system was first installed during the house build. I did the design and all hardware and physical connections myself from reading posts on this site. Ari supplied the C4 I/O device; got some help with driver install and programming from Mitch.

Seems like this should be very "testable". I think your first step is to run a music stream on a device completely outside of Control4 for a day or 2 (i.e. a phone, pad, computer, etc.) and see if you get the same buffering issue.

I don't have the product, but this post did get me interested! It looks pretty cool. The only advice I can give is looking at the install doc, the forecast variables may be part of the cloud driver vs the Tempest sensor driver for version 01.00.09. And it looks like UDP has to be turned on between the LAN and WAN for the cloud driver to exchange information. FWIW - It doesn't look like they did a very good job updating their documentation between major driver updates as there are still many references to the hub driver that they state has been replaced by the cloud driver. If it turns out this feature was removed and you need forecast info, I use Alan Chow's OpenWeather driver/agent and am very happy.

I'm not sure, but I think he meant given the error message, your best bet is to get help from the dealer that sold you your software license.

I used the link you provided and did a few more searches and found this link. It looks almost like the same URL, but there is a line item feature comparison at the bottom. Thanks for your help with this. https://www.xfinity.com/support/articles/x1-hub-vs-companion-box?view=app

I have a secondary Xfinity "slave" TV box that feeds our bedroom. It is a Pace PX032ANI. A couple of button pushes (move right and move up) have been slow/sluggish and now practically don't work at all. I know it's not the C4 remote because I've tried the bedroom remote on other TV's in other rooms and the C4 remote works fine. I've moved the IR bud a million times and got no relief - but I did get a healthy dose of frustration - so it's not like I'm empty handed for my troubles . . . I think I need to replace the box. I want to go to IP when I do it. I'm 99.999999% sure you can't do it with this type of box. Is that true? On my bill, all the boxes are $10/mnth to rent - so I'm thinking all I need to do is swap out the PX032ANI for IP capable box and install. I also would do my other two boxes at the same time. Does anyone else run multiple X1 IP boxes? Any issues you can help me avoid? Thank you for your help.

I did a clean re-install of a poorly performing iPad over the weekend and ended up needing to cycle disable/enable on My Control4 before it would work. It was weird doing the cycle - I had to press disable, go off page and the come back before it would show disabled status. Same process again to show enabled. May not work for iPhone intercom, but so easy to do it’s worth a shot, if not already done.

I’ve had an LU862 for 6 years. I like it, but to be honest, I don’t have much of a use case for a video matrix and I’m wondering if I’ll stay that path once I need to take out the LU. The pro’s have been great for source syncing between multiple TV’s when you have everyone over for the big game, great to downmix to any speakers in the house or lanai, great to share single sources between seldom used rooms. Especially good to downmix the TV to the pool-side speakers. The downside has been at least one burned out port on the LU so it’s not fully capable any more, and I’ve gone through at least 4 LU1E’s - and they are no longer manufactured. But there are 3rd party alternatives that work. The good news is it’s been pretty plug-and-play other than the issues I noted above. Free is good. I guess the biggest question to answer is what do you hope to gain? And is that worth the cost and effort to switch. Unless you are a dealer, there will be some cost to add new driver(s) and reprogram. I’d be asking: Will I get a better picture? will I get/keep downmixing? I don’t believe the first LU’s have downmixing How many years will this take me? / When do I want 4k? Will I get anything else? Good luck! At the end of the day, not sure you can go too wrong.

I like this a lot - it has the extra benefit of if it solves the problem, it probably means you've diagnosed the cause as well.

Ian, I agree with zaphod - given your troubleshooting results above, it's probably not an SR260 issue. I think in your original post, you said that the native Samsung remote is working - so that's good. Next couple of things you can do before calling dealer is what zaphod also suggested: If you have IR control - check to see if the IR bud has been moved. Some require a very high level of precision to work; if you have IP control, then I'd be checking on Samsung TV firmware updates and whether the TV's IP address might have changed. And you can always do the obligatory re-boot of the C4 controller just because! Good luck.

If I had another working SR260, I would use that and change rooms and try to control the Samsung TV. That would be a strong indicator of whether the problem was in the non-working SR260 or elsewhere. Also, I would take the non-working SR260, change rooms, and try to control something else that is working. That also would let me know whether the problem was in the SR260 or elsewhere. Then I would take the batteries out of the non-working SR260 for a few minutes and then replace to reboot and see if that changes anything. If that didn't fix it, then I'd reboot my controller. If none of that works, I'd place a call to my dealer to see if they could find a problem. Good luck and hopefully you don't have a hardware problem on your SR260.

Huh - a remote with no physical buttons. I wonder what the difference is between that and an iPhone? I have a new regular Halo and really like it. I’ve been thinking about buying a touch, but I’m not sure if there is enough room between the regular halo and the iPhone app to make enough difference.

I've had an EA5 with the on-screen nav to all TV's via video matrix for 6 years. Yes - it works well. But in practice, it is very, very, very seldom used. If I needed another video source, I wouldn't think twice about giving up the on-screen navigator. If you have other control devices like a C4 wall-mount, mobile device app and/or a C4 SR-260/halo readily available, my advice is I wouldn't put a lot of effort into it, unless I just needed a project to work to have some fun!

You might just give them access to the router and they can control who has access (i.e. allow only known Mac id's on the network) and give them wifi access point access as well. You can always get access back later doing a factory restore if they leave without turning access back over. Or if you don't want to do that, have them put their own router in, etc.

If practical, you can run a cable between the C4 control box and your router/switch out in the open to see if it solves the problem before you open up walls, etc. And if you are able to do it and it works, I wouldn’t just jump in and open walls, I’d take a step back and determine what would be the optimal equipment location(s) and compare that level of effort/cost before proceeding. I also recommend discussing a plan of action like this with your dealer beforehand to get them onboard and ready to provide assistance as needed.

Mine has the same issue with rebooting when I pick it up from being idle and immediately doing a room off command. I've learned to pause before doing the off - basically wait until right before putting the halo back on the charging cradle. Otherwise, halo has been solid. I'll still take it over the SR-260 (so far, just need the screen to last more than a year!).