WhyPhy

Yes, obstruction sensor (and motion sensor) integration is a great feature. I especially like how they enable automation of the main ceiling lights.

This latest update with the closing delay is working perfectly. It addressed my safety/car damage concerns. Thank you Alan!

That would be perfect.

Th It’s disappointing this problem isn’t easier to solve. Having to have the delay for opening the door outweighs the safety benefit for when closing the door. I frequently use the voice assist on my phone to open the door when walking up to it. Standing there and waiting for 15 seconds for the door to start moving so you can go inside isn’t a great experience. There is a ratgdo feature request to add a configurable parameter to delay closing the door. This is to allow time for automations to complete and would occur for closing only. If that ever gets implemented then it might ultimately solve the closing notification problem without impacting opening events.

Is it possible to add a logic test after receiving the C4 toggle command to check the currently reported open/close position from ratgdo and infer close vs. open actions? The ratgdo log file seems to indicate it continuously reports the current open/close state.

This is fantastic news! Can you add the option for the delay to be for closing only? Or add discrete delays/announcements for opening and closing? For garage doors, opening warnings are not required for UL235 (but opening warnings are required for gate opening events.)

Ratgdo does not intrinsically meet the UL325 requirement and LiftMaster/MyQ does not expose their UL325 capability to third parties. Ratgdo hardware would have to add a beeper, or at least a relay to control one. Any integrator who uses the driver without meeting UL325 is taking on some amount of liability. Hiding the garage door and using a proxy device is a bit more complicated. To get the ratgdo driver to work with HomeBridge Manager, it has to bound to the “Relay Garage Door Controller (OS2.9+)”driver, which limits direct binding to other devices. So custom programming would have to be used to link the devices. Given that this is a safety function, it would be preferable to handle it within the driver itself Given the additional liability on the integrator for bypassing UL325, it would be better to directly address this within the driver and perhaps add the option to flash the garage door light as a warning, and a prompt them to trigger additional alerts.

I had similar issues and started looking through ratgdo logs to figure it out. Ypur problem is likely due to a failing (or old and incompatible) wall keypad. The wall keypad is what tracks/maintains the door open/close status. Otherwise, ratgdo goes into “emulation mode” and tries to infer position on its own, which isn’t always accurate, especially after power failures. LiftMaster has had recalls on a couple of different wall keypads due to failing capacitors and/or other issues. I replaced my 888LM keypad with a 889LM keypad and that solved the “false position” problem. (It was a free replacement by filling out the a form in the LiftMaster website.) These particular 888LM/889LM keypads add MyQ compatibility to older Security+ 1.0 garage doors, but there are other keypads with other problems for Security+ 2.0. My suggestion is you start with the keypad, and definitely upgrade to an 889LM if you have a Security+ 1.0 garage door opener. Also, a battery backup for the garage door opener is a very good idea. Most wall keypads take 30 seconds to 5 minutes for the capacitors to charge up before coming online. During this charging period, ratgdo may switch to “emulation mode” and ignore the keypad when it comes online, leading to phantom position changes. This is a known problem with ratgdo and an issue has been raised. Adding a LiftMaster battery back up (and preventing power loss to the garage door/keypad big buddy) is the only currently known fix.

The one shortcoming of the chowmain ratgdo driver is that it does not meet the UL325 Safety Certification Compliance like the original MyQ does. UL325 requires audible/visual notification that the garage door/gate is going to soon close to prevent someone from being trapped/hit. (Or in my case…to prevent someone from almost backing into the garage door just after it was closed programmatically.) Would it be possible to add an optional “delay xx seconds before closing” setting to the driver? This would allow time for audio/light flash notifications to happen prior to the garage door being commanded to close. Most MyQ wall keypads have a warning-beep-then-close functionality, but it can only be accessed via the wireless protocol and not the wired serial protocol ratgdo can access. So unfortunately, meeting UL325 requires some additional C4 programming.

The Rolls Ducker seems like a great option if the announcements come from an external system, or if your music source is separate from C4.

I really wish my AudioControl Director Matrix Amps had a dedicated announcement function. There is an announcement feature, but it’s only for public address use and doesn’t work for intermittent announcements. The C4 announcements agent takes care of all the snapshotting to make sure the rooms return to their prior state after the announcement. I’ve never had to use the snapshot driver. Delays and announcement cutoffs are my big complaint.

In my experience, with 20 zones across 3 AudioControl matrix amps, it’s better to just let C4 handle the announcement and not do custom programming. C4 does numerous pause/save/adjust/announce/resume steps that are not apparent and don’t necessarily behave consistently. The announcements Agent is basically a “black box” that’s supposed to just work. Additionally, I have to add delays before each announcement so the first few seconds aren’t cut-off (the more zones, the longer the required delay.) In the end, announcements mostly works, but would be much better if implemented by the matrix itself as an “announcement input” vs C4 doing save/announce/restore for each zone individually.

Months ago, I noticed I started receiving only receiving 1 notification e-mail per day. This was from a UniFi Protect camera with an image attached. The first event of the day successfully sends, but no subsequent images. I used to receive numerous e-mails per day for each camera detection event. This seems to be a server-side change, not a local programming change. The e-mail header shows it routing through cindev.com. The programming is "Device Specific Command", "Send Snapshot", e-mail details entered. This is the CinDev driver for Ubiquiti UniFi Protect. Does anyone have an idea what may be going on here and why this changed to be limited to only 1 email per day?

Yes, I agree. Assuming it’s a dark room.

ALR should somewhat help reduce the light reflection on the wall and ceiling, but at the expense of on-screen image quality in the dark. Everything is a tradeoff. Personally, I’m with @BXTR on the Seymour Screen Excellence Woven Acoustically Transparent, non-ALR. I think it offers the fewest trade-offs. And Stewart StudioTek for the absolute best image quality.

Yes, definite downsides to ALR. I only recommend them for rooms with lots of windows and not in basements with light control. However, I will admit that I haven’t seen the “11th Gen ALR” from Screen Innovations, which they claim eliminates sparkles and hot-spotting (i.e. the flashlight beam effect.) Read some posts on the topic at AVSforum.com to learn more and figure out which drawback you’re willing to live with (lower contrast vs. sparkles/hotspots.) Ideally, go see a demo yourself. The anamorphic lens will completely eliminate light spillover for a 2.40:1 screen…IF EVERYTHING IS PERFECTLY ALIGNED SND STAYS THAT WAY. The reality is that it’s very difficult to get the alignment perfect, and the projector and mount (and house) will slightly shift over time. Tiny movements of the projector result in bigger movements at the screen. Long story short, if you absolutely want no spillover, get a velvet boarder around the screen. The only reason not to have a boardet is aesthetic (if you really want that “floating screen” effect.)

I’d be very cautious about using an ALR (active light rejection) screen. They generally have noticeable sparkles from the fresnel prisms and also have some degree of color shift. You don’t need ALR if you just have a few lights on. It’s really most beneficial if there are lights directly over the screen or bright omni-directional light from windows. There are noticeable drawbacks for these types of screens, so be sure you are ready to accept them. Also, are you adding an anamorphic lens to convert your projector output from 1.78:1 to 2.40:1? If not, you will always have noticeable light spillover above and below the screen. I would not use a 2.40:1 screen unless the projector is converted to a matching 2.40:1 aspect ratio.

I updated my post above. It wasn't an issue with 3.4.1 but rather an issue with the Home Connect for Apple Home driver. I later reinstalled and configured the Home Connect driver and experienced no delay/lag issues with the remote. I'm not exactly sure what caused or solved the issue.

I only occasionally experienced an issue with button press lag on the Halo, and it was resolved by rebooting the remote. However, as soon as I installed the Home Connect for Apple Home driver, the lag became constant with both the Halo Touch remote and the C4 Mobile app. I rebooted the remote and the director/controller and the lag continued. The Home Connect app wasn't even configured or connected to a Homebridge server. As soon as I uninstalled the Home Connect app, the lag was gone.

I tired using that terminal to control the existing doorbell chime. I was never able to get it to work and gave up. Hopefully someone knows a solution.

Do you have the correct MAC address entered into the driver to enable Wake On LAN?

I'm bumping this thread to say thanks. The Dimmer Load Group driver is exactly what I needed to solve a very simple problem. One issue I found with the Dimmer Load Group driver is that it is not compatible with Cold Start. When switching a dimmer on, all of the dimmers will get "stuck" at the cold start value if it is not set to zero. A second press is required to get the dimmer to the default on value for the dimmer.

I think Dawn has the ideal setup. JVC projector, panamorph lens, 2.39:1 screen.

The highest a screen should be is this: measure 1/3 up the screen from the bottom - that imaginary horizontal line should be at or below seated eye level. This results in the bottom of the screen being pretty close to the floor. If you’re ever going to watch TV shows, and probably even if you are not, you should go with a screen aspect ratio to match the projector aspect ratio. So unless you’re using an amorphic lens on the projector, you should use a 16:9 screen. Otherwise, you’re losing 1/3 the pixels and 1/3 the brightness and will have light spillover above/below the screen. For the price, you cannot beat a Silver Ticket screen from Amazon. Their woven acoustically transparent screen is a great performer, as proven in testing. If you want integrated boarder lighting or light rejection do SI; for absolutely reference color reproduction do Stewart StudioTek 130.

Here’s my attempt at an answer to your question that isn’t “it’s you…you’re the problem…it’s you” (to paraphrase Taylor Swift.) ClickSend.com is the service I’ve heard of others using for this purpose. Here’s a comparison that seems to indicate ClickSend is the best option, but there are other choices. https://www.smscomparison.com/gateway/email-to-sms/ Let us know which one works best!