Dr. Venkman

My LU-862 isn’t able to be controlled. Composer says it’s offline, and my network says the same. I’ve tried changing network cables and ports on the switch, rebooting the unit (and the C4 controller), and plugging it directly into the switch on the EA-5. Nothing gets it online. When it’s plugged in, the port light on the switch lights up and the left light on the port on the 862 lights up solid. Any ideas on how to get it back up? Thanks.

Is the Roku’s audio getting to the matrix via the Denon? if you can play/control audio in that and other zones, just not the Roku, my guess would be it’s either a connection issue with the Roku or an audio format issue, but I am far from an expert. I believe the audio matrix can handle PCM stereo or surround, but not some other surround formats (DTS, maybe). Whatever is sending the roku’s audio into the matrix (either the Denon or the Roku itself), can you set it to stereo? I know there’s an audio format setting in the Roku.

Can you explain the setup? Is all the equipment in the TV room? Is the sound supposed to be coming out of the TV or other speakers? Are you running a video or audio matrix, or just the Denon? Is YouTube TV running on a native app on the TV or on a Roku/Apple TV/etc? Troubleshooting: Can you control each piece of equipment involved? Even if it still doesn’t work, can you prove that the equipment is controllable by C4? if there is no matrix involved, can you use the individual remotes of the devices (or the manual controls on the front) to get the sound on? Video but no audio is sometimes an indication of an audio format issue, but a Denon receiver should generally be able to handle that fine. That’s usually only a problem with a stereo audio matrix. You could try changing the audio format on the video source back and forth between stereo and surround.

Thanks much. It's actually not going to be that hard with the new color handling in 3.3 - love the new color settings.

Got my dealer to add a few Hue 3.3+ lights. Just to clarify. When we talk about "scenes," we're talking about scenes set up in the Hue app? Not rooms or groups or zones, but scenes. I've got four lights in a room: Scene 1 (in Hue) is all four lights on and white Scene 2 (in Hue) is one light on and red I don't find that the Hue scenes are accessible from C4. The room is (along with individual lights, groups, and zones), and I can set one of the "lights" in C4 to control the whole room (which is cool), but I don't see that I can call the Hue scenes themselves. It's not a huge deal - I can mix and match the lights and get where I need to by some combination of Hue groups, C4 advanced lighting scenes, and/or programming. But I just wanted to confirm that I'm not missing something and that Hue scenes aren't callable from C4.

Can a dimmer/switch (as a two-button keypad) be connected to a hue scene and control dimming? Or would I need to do it as advanced lighting for that?

Thanks. Oh, it’s totally a gimmick, and no, we don’t need it. But the kids are interested, and it’s been convenient. The power isn’t a problem for us. When we installed C4, we had the switch on the wall that controlled the fan light kit wired through (always on) and replaced with a wireless keypad. The only control for those sockets is the chain on the fan. With a new bridge and the new driver, I assume I would be starting essentially from scratch (which doesn’t bother me). In a more current setup: Do individual bulbs come into C4 the way they do in the old native driver? Would I be creating scenes in Hue and calling those scenes from C4 (and can those scenes be connected to a keypad for on/off and dimming)? Currently, I don’t have any Hue scenes. If it’s C4 scenes, are the colors available in the scene, or would they be set programmatically as the scene is activated the way I do now? Thanks again.

Did you try rebooting the dimmer/keypad? 15 taps on the top button. Hopefully a reboot does it, and they aren’t damaged. Edit: Ha…you’re faster than me.

We have had Hue integrated into our system for years. It’s not much, and it’s not complicated, but we’ve mostly liked how it works. We had our first bulb in years burn out this week, and I’ll need to replace it. I could just replace the bulb (I assume), but I thought I should consider whether a new setup would be a good idea. We’ve still got the first generation Hue hub, and with the improvements in C4’s handling of color (not to mention the competitors to Hue these days), I’m quite certain there is room for improvement in our setup. Here’s our use case: First gen hub Four bulbs in each of the kids rooms (the main lights in the ceiling fan) Native driver from forever ago There’s a scene for lights (all on, all white) and a scene for nightlight (one bulb on very dim red). We have a switch on the wall acting as a two button keypad, and it turns the main scene on/off and dimms it. The nightlight scene is called from a keypad when appropriate (bedtime). No scenes from Hue are called, each bulb is a “light” in C4, and they’re grouped into a hue scene. the color is set programmatically when the C4 scenes are called. It works fine, but we really can’t easily do anything besides call those two scenes. I expect the kids would enjoy being able to play with the colors, and I wouldn’t mind the dimming working a little better or having more scene options that are easy to configure. I would love any advice anyone has about choosing between these options (or something I haven’t thought of): Just replace the bulb, reconfigure with the new bulb and keep the same bridge and functionality. Keep Hue, but move up to the new bridge and build out more functionality (not sure exactly what’s available, but I think we could build the scenes in Hue, rather than have C4 control the bulbs individually and set colors programmatically). Ditch Hue for another solution (I understand TP Link bulbs with the Chowmain driver works pretty well). Thanks for any insight.

If I ask my dealer to create a "new" playroom to see if that one will show up, would moving all of the devices to the new room be pretty easy and smooth? That room has lights, wireless keypads, a fan controller, a TV, and a Sonos Soundbar. The lights are in a handful of scenes. The TV is just an endpoint for the Leaf HDMI matrix, and the soundbar is IP controlled, but really doesn't get used for anything but the optical cable out of the TV. I'm hoping that if the new room shows up for Alexa, dragging those devices to the new room wouldn't cause any issues with scenes or connections. I realize I would have to rebuild the navigator thermostat/security/etc. settings for the new room, but that's not hard. Also any room-level programming or defaults, but I don't mind doing that. Thanks.

Thanks. I'm on 117, and after a reboot and a refresh of devices at customer.control4.com, it still isn't there. I initially thought it might be a naming issue (i.e. conflicting names), but the room is named "Playroom," and there aren't any lights or other devices with that exact name. Additionally, there's a room named "Master Bath," and the lights in that room are also just named "Master Bath." Both show up in the portal just fine (it may cause issues with giving commands to Alexa, but Control4 is making both available).

I have the Alexa skill enabled, and it works pretty well. Lights, scenes, room control, selecting AV devices, etc. But one of my rooms doesn't show as available (the playroom). It doesn't show up in the room list on customer.control4.com when choosing which devices are available to Alexa. It has a TV and a Sonos soundbar and is set up identically to another room that is made available to Alexa (same soundbar, same AV endpoint settings). I can control devices in the room, but the room isn't listed at all on customer.control4.com. Any ideas? I'm running OS 3.2.4. Thanks.

Thanks. The HDMI goes into the Leaf, and the RCA audio matrix outputs on the Leaf go into the Triad matrix. Not sure if that’s extraction or routing of audio. With a setup like you describe: There would essentially be two audio streams available to the Triad Matrix. Would the system just choose the stream from the converter over the stream from the leaf (for non-HDMI zones)? Maybe I’m misunderstanding that part. If going directly from the streaming device to the audio matrix (via the extractor), I would lose the ability to delay the audio, right? Most of my video sources require a modest delay when playing on ceiling speakers through the audio matrix, and that delay is controlled by the Leaf. Thanks a bunch.

We’re considering switching from U-verse to DirecTV Stream and are trying out one of DTV’s streaming devices. For several reasons (mostly channel numbers and regional sports network) DTV Stream, with their Android TV streaming device, is the best option for us. Our dealer has it added, and it’s running through our LU862 (non-downmixing). The only issue we have is with the audio. The LU862 is connected to our Triad audio matrix, and when the audio on the streaming device is set to surround, it plays just fine on TV speakers/soundbars, but it won’t play through ceiling speakers. In order to get it to play through ceiling speakers, it must be set to stereo. That all makes sense to me. But when it’s set to stereo, it is incredibly loud through the TV soundbars (a reasonable volume level is like 4% instead of the normal 25%). Without the downmixing Leaf, is there a way to either convert the audio to stereo for use in the ceiling speakers (while using surround to the TVs) or lower the level of the stereo output so the volume doesn’t have to be turned down to 4%? EDIT TO ADD: The audio output options on the device are “Surround when available” and “Stereo only.” It doesn’t mention PCM, or disclose how the surround is formatted. Worst case, I could program the room’s volume level to set to be 4% whenever the device is selected, but I’d rather not have the useable volume range be like 2-6%. Thanks for any ideas.

Absolutely. You still probably want a sensor to monitor the state of the door, but if you've got a sensor already set up and working well, this is probably the best way to go.