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About mindedc1

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    Control4 End User
  1. That is WAY less interesting than a driver to heat Taxis! 😜
  2. You don't know what you don't know. There are dozens, if not hundreds, of "little things" that you would need to know to make C4 work well. Many of those things are taught in C4 training, many are school of hard knocks. C4 is a super flexible system so you can either make it do a million things right or screw it up a million ways. If you don't know that the EA driver are part of composer, you don't even know where to start. Just like everyone above me said, call a dealer. There are some on this forum that will work with you in a remote fashion (I AM NOT ONE) to help you as a tech savvy homeowner in the most cost effective/flexible way possible. If you are super cost conscious or you want a high degree of control this is a good way to go. You should also consider that you will need some education on how to use composer HE after the dealer finishes his work. I would pay for that time and consider it a training class. There are also a lot of dealers that don't want to get involved in a potential mess with a customer that won't take the dealer's advise. You could be either category of customer, you need to decide which one you want to be.
  3. Onkyo shares the same pedigree as integra and the integration is really good. You have two way driver, great access to the input and output zones, you can tie the second zone to a different room and it appears to the user to function as a seperate device. I am not familiar with using the internal network sources (internal spotify for example) with zone 2 as I find that it's easier to do all that from C4 or an outboard device and split/matrix across zones. I know with Dennon/Marantz it gets weird when airplaying directly to the reciever and trying to use zone 2... it assumes an incoming airplay connection means make the main zone play airplay... The only caution is if you are using the second zone output it may not support a digital input until you get into fairly high in the product line. I think that as a rule Onkyo (and absolutely Integra, but we're getting spendy again) sound much better than their Sony equivalents.
  4. Shielded cable is not required/recommended unless you have a source of interference. The CatX standards are self shielding to a great degree thanks to the twisting of the cable. The only place I've ever seen it (validly) used was around high power radio transmitters. The recommendations against patch panels etc. with HDBaseT is most likely more about the quality of the installers vs the ability to have an extra junction. Cat X cable (3,5,6,6a etc) have a defined impedance based on the diameter of the wire, geometry and twists per inch, and insulation. When you have a change in any of those factors you alter the impedance of the transmission path. The signal can hit that barrier and bend/reflect and come back as an echo. To prevent that the Cat X standards have lots of requirements about maintaining geometry of the cable and how it's to be terminated and run. For example, if you pinch or bend the cable sharply you can cause much worse problems than if you add a proper connection. If you want a patch panel it should be fine as long as you properly terminate the cable. Most people without training will not be able to properly use a punch panel to meet the standard. You should have 1/2" or less of unclad and unshielded cable INSIDE the termination. Most home gamers that use a punch panel (and shockingly some pros) will have have 1-6 inches uninsulated and often untwisted wires. The keystones can be much easier as someone alluded to above. To properly punch those you will need a real 110 punch tool like a harris, not the free plastic thing that comes with keystones at home depot. You will also need an appliance made for your brand of keystone to stabilize it while punching. The outer cladding of the cable should touch the back of the jack and the wires should stay twisted inside the keystone as far as possible. I think you said you're in IT. You may already know how to properly punch a jack or a panel. It should be fine with proper termination. I would not use a passthrough keystone as it's not that hard to terminate a punch keystone properly and you are adding an extra connection to troubleshoot if you have another RJ45 on the back. I would also use a tester to validate the cable. I know how to do it properly and I wound up having a few mis-wired that I caught with the tester. I bought it used on ebay and sold it back off on ebay for what I paid for it.. just lost the shipping costs. As for speaker cables, I wanted a patch panel for those so I bought keystone banana jacks. I was not really happy with that setup so I replaced it with Netrik Speakons and a patch panel for those. I used some decent CL2 inwall wire with the outer jacket still on it with Neutrik to the patch panel side and banana jacks on the amp side. There is no need to go higher gague than your inwall for patches. Most installers don't seem to do that but I'm very OCD with my own personal stuff. For POE I would not use a midspan, you're just adding something else to deal with. I would get a good quality POE switch. To me a good quality switch has a brand like Juniper, Extreme, Aruba or Cisco. I would buy an aruba S2500 POE used off ebay before I would buy any of the expensive "custom installer" hardware. They are quiet and have the same ASICs as more well known products. You get full management, loop protection, statistics etc...
  5. Make sure that you are configured for fast roaming and stay on the same IP network while you roam between APs. It sounds like the tablet is potentially doing a full re-authentication and doing a new DHCP request which flushes all the active network connections to applications. If you have a properly configured system and decent gear you should be able to roam without dropping the C4 app no problem. You should make sure the ubiquiti isn't configured to NAT the clients and that you only have one DHCP server on the network.
  6. Not when I had it, you jumped past then skipped back....
  7. Niether. I'm using a Fibaro via Vera. I looked at the protocol, looks super easy to implement. The only negative I see is no feedback, you would have to assume that if the TCP connection is good that the device is actually responding to the command. I say that, the guy that decoded the protocol didn't seem to identify any form of response from the device. Perhaps he was uninterested in feedback and there is some nice functionality.
  8. If you have a Vera you can just use a Fibaro Zwave RGBW driver. I am controlling bar lights, ceiling rope lights, and under stair lights in my home theater through control 4. You can certainly make scenes on the Vera and trigger them but using the extravedge driver and directly controlling the lights is easy. Each channel will show up as an independant dimmer and you can also have a master dimmer controll all channels. I am actually using white LEDs for one of the Fibaros and have broken the channels out to independent strips. Works like a champ.
  9. Technically, you don't need a new router to make it work. I would also not buy any Araknis/packedge overpriced product. Those products are more about increasing dealer margin than anything. You do need to get someone to look at it that knows what they're doing. Any money to be spent should first go to a networking pro. The linksys and ubiquiti should work fine assuming it's all configured correctly. That being said the linksys home products are very limited as to how they can be configured. I will say that it sounds like perhaps you are doing NAT translation at the ubiquiti as well as the linksys or perhaps have DHCP enabled on the ubiquiti as well as the linksys if there is a real communication issue. Depending on where the KODI device is connected you may or may not be passing firewall filters or nat boundary. On another note, I would actually recommend you ditch the Linksys as your router and get something higher quality. I would find a friend or local person that has some networking expertise. An all ubiquiti setup with an edgerouter ($99) and two ubiquiti WAPs would be ideal. If you are not capable of managing the edgerouter firewall and don't want to have someone on retainer to do so I would look at something like a pfsense device as it is a little easier to manage. Honestly if the changes you typically are making in the linksys are DHCP reservations you can manage an edgerouter. Good luck
  10. One thing I saw, the Video Storm drivers seem to be more focused on Amazon Fire TV than shield. I have a shield and I had to write a bunch of mini driver strings because the majority of the current mini drivers from Video Storm are geared towards the Fire TV vs shield and the QLAUNCH strings change from time to time. I'm not saying they're not supporting Shield or that it won't/doesnt work because it works beautifully, they do seem to be prioritizing support for fire products though. You may get better support down the road with fire devices. There is also a super cool feature where you can detect when the Shield/Fire TV is playing video. In my home theater I have those state changes mapped to play/pause lighting scenes. Super cool! The only downside is netflix live previews count as playing video....
  11. I use a Zwave LED strip driver by Fibaro, a Vera controller, and the extraveg vera drivers. It shows up as 4 dimmers to C4 (RGBW) and works instantly. Vera is $80-100, LED driver was $60. I use superbright LEDs from Amazon ($20 for 15 feet with 300 LEDs) with an amazon 12V power supply ($30) and a signal amplifier ($10) because I am driving quite a few strips. YMMV on C4 integration costs.
  12. My wife got talked into switching Dish > Direct at costco recently. I was a dish customer since the days of their first reciever and I've had Direct for about a year. Here are my thoughts: Sports package - DirectTV has the win here. I'm not a sports fan so I don't care. My football addicted friends are much happier hanging out on the weekends though. C4 Integration - Works flawlessly on Dish with Hoppers. I had two hoppers but no Joeys (long story) so I can't speak to Joey functionality. The experience was >= using the dish remote, zero lag. Direct TV Genie and genie mini integration sucks eggs. I will talk about the hardware in more detail but what was said about certain menus on the minis are IR only is completely true. You can get stuck in deep menus via IP control and not be able to get out, freaking genius. The interface is also super laggy. Using the IR remote things like bringing up the guide take a second or two on direct (instant on dish). Using the C4 integration adds another second to that. My C4 dealer didn't want to do IP control for those reasons but I have receivers in places I don't have wiring for IR bugs so I'm stuck. Video quality - Direct looks like they do a saturation push on all the content but they seem to heavily reduce the motion bit rate on a lot of the content. The result is a heavily saturated image with a crapload of macroblocking. Dish looks like they run a reduced color space to save bandwidth but keep a high bitrate for motion. The net effect is if you have a small crappy TV or don't notice macroblocking, direct probably looks great. If you have mostly larger TVs or heaven forbid a projector Direct is almost unwatchable due to macro blocking and pixelation. I feel like I'm watching TV in 8bit. Both will steer higher bandwidth towards high profile events. Superbowl looks great on both for example. I have also noticed that on Dish the prime time stuff looks fantastic. They have some satellite technology that lets them re-use spectrum in sections across the US and I think that buys them something there. I have a Direct TV bigot friend and he thought I was crazy saying the video quality was poor on Direct until he came over and looked at it on my Sony 940E and my JVC X560 on a 120" screen...It is much more watchable on the bedroom TVS which are much smaller. I would imaging many forum members have much better displays than I do. Guide -The direct TV guide is sized for smaller TVs and you get far less grid data per square inch of TV. If you are using lots of 32" and 42" TVs you may like it. On a 65" tv the Direct guide is a joke and looks like it's for toddlers and blind people. The other huge issues I have with the direct guide is all of the dammed advertising. 50% of the channels are either pay-per-view ads or shopping channels. Dish has all the shopping channels clumped in one section, Dish also has PPV ads that overlay the PPV channels but they are only in just one or two other places in the guide, spread evenly throughout. I did remove all the extra PPV and shopping channels from my Direct guides but the net result is about 10 pages of ads crammed together (orignoally spaced out by PPV channels) that I have to skip over. I cringe every time I use the guide on Direct. Another annoyance is that direct does not make current time the absolute left side of the screen. That sounds like a weird complaint but it lets you accidentally select a show thats over. This triggers a screen to try and watch the old show via on demand or something and you're in laggy menu hell waiting for that to come up so you can cancel it and then waiting for the overlay to disappear so you can get back to your show or load the guide again. Skip - Fast forward and rewind are nearly unusable on direct. I want to rip my hair out every time. The+30 sec skip does a "fast forward" so you have to wait for what you're skipping over. Presumably the purpose would be to make sure you dont miss anything. That is completely rendered useless by the fact the the reverse skip is only 3-5 seconds. If you blow over something you have to reverse skip 70 times to get back. Dish does an instant +30 and -10. If you're skipping commercials you skip forwards until you see the show, skip back once or twice and you're done. I wind up either watching commercials or missing parts of the show on direct. This leads me to the heavyweight feature on dish... Auto commercial skip. - Dish has this on all the primetime programming. Direct does not. I didn't watch commercials on Dish, ever. I watch tons on direct. Hate it. Recording - Both have good capacity. The thing I really love on Dish is primetime anytime where it records prime time on all the major networks. I didn't pay attention to having to manually record prime time shows are and I just used prime time anytime. Direct does not have this. I have to make sure to record everything like a cave man. Whole home DVR - Works great on both platforms. I didn't have Joeys but I was able to both search and use recording capacity on one hopper from the other. The Genie also works very well. On Demand content - So win goes to Direct for most on-demand content. I would also like to take that away and give it to Dish because of a few issues I've had with it. Unfortunately Dish has little on demand and the interface is beyond terrible/unusable so Direct wins here. The issues I've had with on demand are 1. Took three week, 10 service calls, and three new genies to get it to work (yes that means re-paring with C4 each time you get a new receiver and a complete wipe of settings including your possibly hand-edited guide to remove the HUNDREDS of PPV channels and shopping channels). When activating on demand they tell you it should take 24 hours to work. They lie. It should work before they leave or don't let them leave. 2. You can't fast forward or commercial skip on demand content. This means I'm stuck watching commercials again. Hardware - Direct TV hardware is super cheap and crappy. It feels like a plastic box of air. The power supplies are external so you wind up with wall warts and extra cabling all over the place. Dish hardware feels like decent mid grade AV gear. Internal power supplies and plenty of interfaces. Beyond that, there are significant differences between the products beyond what you see from a user experience perspective. Dish has hoppers and joeys. Hoppers are the mothership and joeys are the remote unit. You can get 4K units for both. You can technically run the Joeys over IP. Each hopper/joey has its own IP and streams/talks to the internet itself. This means anywhere you have a network you can put a joey and you can have a 4K tv at any location. On Direct they have Genies and Minis. The Genies are the mother ship and the minis are the remote. Only minis support 4K. This forces me to have a mini in the AV rack where you would think that I could put the main unit with the noisy hard disk. Go figure. The minis and the genie also communicate on IP, but despite having ethernet jacks on every unit it will only work on a MOCA IP over coax connection. The main unit gets an IP address (you pair with C4) and it relays commands and streaming media. That's right, the main unit is a proxy/speedbump for all the minis. This explains the lag but also means you better have COAX where you want to put a TV. This is probably fine for older houses but I only have cat 6a in the upstairs bedrooms. so I've had to go back and pull coax where a TV was wanted... That's right, discard the 2016+ technology for 1970s technology.... The other infuriating thing is that somewhere along the dozen or so service calls to get my streaming to work they told me that in a large installation I needed to disconnect ALL of the genies/minis and have a dedicated MOCA to ethernet bridge. This required a second coax (that also had to be pulled) to the av closet. 4K Content - I never had a 4K reciever on Dish, but I think they had 4 channels just like the early days of HD. I also suspect it's the same crap playing over and over interspersed with 4k commercials for the other 3 channels you're not currently watching. So probably not worth the fee. I do have two 4K Direct recievers. I can't use one of them because of noise issues with the genie I can't put it in any of the bedrooms so I have my main unit on the 4k TV in the living room. They have one channel that barely has any content and like the early days of dish 4k it's a lot of commercials for itself and repeated content. What is there (rare event or soccer game) is absolutely spectacular. I also don't think it's worth the fee. I really took Dish for granted. The better streaming on Direct isn't worth it in light of netflix/hulu/prime etc. and the ability to stream other channels natively on any of our streaming devices. I am ultimately going to cancel Direct when the contract is up. I may not go back to cable/satellite but if I do I will be getting Dish, no questions asked.
  13. Amazon link for GRI water sensor: https://www.amazon.com/GRI-2600-Volt-Water-Sensor/dp/B001DVVJIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1544821406&sr=8-3&keywords=gri+water+sensor
  14. GRI Water sensors are super bullet proof. I have them near my washer and in the closet with the hot water heaters. The worst issue is running the wire back to a controller or extender. I think there is also a zigbee wireless sensor. For something like this I would go with old school simple reliable stuff like this. I previously had a battery powered sensor and would get lazy about changing batteries and then freakout when I forgot to replacing them etc...
  15. What this guy is saying^^^^^ Individual SSIDs would be the sign of an idiot giving that advise. There is no reason to do that. Araknis specifically implemented 802.11r/k for roaming between APs, why would they do that if they're going to bozo roaming by having multiple SSIDs? There is no call for multiple. Also, saying that home requires less tweaking than commercial is also an idiodic statement. If they look up the RF absorption of the materials in a typical house VS a typical office environment it's not even close. I can get 3x the coverage from one AP in a commercial setting VS a home setting. I think he's just used to the installers not knowing enough to tweak so they recommend brain dead solutions like multiple SSIDs. Also, if you were thinking about doing a roaming SSID and AP specific SSIDs, know that every SSID you add eats air time because it's beacon has to be sent at the slowest base rate of any possible client. Just think about how many bits flip per unit time at 1.5mbit vs 600mbit....Lots of wasted bit times on beacons. If you do the math 32 SSIDs equate to 100% channel utilization without any actual user traffic. You have the same problem with multicast which is why any decent system will do multicast to unicast conversion. Two SSID won't kill you but why waste the bandwidth. We often tune minimum base rate instead of power because it can be a better indication of connection quality than just DB of signal. Various systems also tune off of RSSI and xmit power but that gets product specific. I would find someone qualified to help you with your Araknis or find someone that is qualified with another product and ebay it. I think tekki70 whom I quoted offered some level of assistance. I don't know him from adam's house cat but he seems like he has a better working knowledge than whomever you are talking to. Good luck
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