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About dw886

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  1. I ordered some last week and got them in a few days (US).
  2. So I'm tired of seeing keypads that are right next to each other with slightly different colors because one ambient light sensor is reading "dim" and the other is reading "bright". Stating this up front so this doesn't come up: these are brand new keypads with the new ambient light sensors with the black shaft. Here's what I'm thinking: Set backlight levels to "high" all of the time via "Fully Customized" backlight levels At a given time in the morning (say ~sunrise), set the backlight color to "White" - seems the most readable color for daylight At a given time in the evening (say ~sunset), set the backlight color to something dark, like dark navy Possibly handle well-lit night areas differently than bedrooms. Questions: What's the best way to programatically set *all* keypad colors at once? I can do these one-by-one if it has to be that way, but this is going to be tedious - this project has ~ 55 lighting loads with engraved keypads. Is there a way to manipulate the "level" from DIM to BRIGHT and vice versa? Is there a better way to deal with keypads all looking different because ambient light levels in different areas of a room are read differently (sometimes in keypads side-by-side? I can't believe there's not a way to connect all keypad light levels together, especially in the same room. For example, there's a room that has windows on 3 sides, and has keypads on all 3 sides of the room. All keypad backlight levels look differently (and the colors all look different then too).
  3. Correct, I did mean where aesthetics aren't top of list - I corrected it in my original post - thanks for pointing that out. The driver is a one-time cost, so if you needed 10 switches, you'd be looking at like $290 total (10 switches @ $20, and the $90 driver), or $29/each. Seems reasonable provided that wifi signal is decent at each location.
  4. I'm not sure why I hadn't even given this though earlier, but for closets and other places where aesthetics aren't top of list, is there any drawback to using TP-Link switches where I'd normally put C4-SW120277 switches if the zigbee mesh in those areas is already strong when Alan's driver is already part of a project? The HS200 switches are $20 retail, so for the spare bedroom closets where I find the traditional switches left accidentally on, it seems like a no-brainer...the only downside that I can see is that they look different and the TP-Link switches obviously wouldn't help to strengthen the zigbee mesh. Am I missing something?
  5. Can you elaborate on this more (what is needed between the two)? I'm trying to use a relay for this purpose with a newer MyQ opener 8160WB, and it seems that the wired connection between the opener and the door is a data connection, and not a simple relay...
  6. The IP drivers for Samsung QLED / Frame TVs have what seems to be some limited functionality around Ambient mode - there's reference to it in the documentation, but no instructions on how to implement Ambient mode on the QLED sets (there's more descriptive instructions for "Art Mode" on the Frame but it doesn't seem to apply). How do you go about sending the commands to get the TV into Ambient Mode? There's device specific commands on the TV driver for "Begin Art Mode", but that doesn't seem to do anything (I can have a custom button issue that command and nothing happens). There's the "Art Mode" mini app, that can be connected to Mini App 15 on the Samsung TV, but again, that doesn't seem to do anything. Am I missing something obvious? To get this into Art Mode, is this simply a binding, or is it custom programming? If it's the latter, can someone point me in the right direction?
  7. I see the Armed Away, Armed Night, etc on OS3.1 using elk_ip_security_panel.c4z driver version 19.
  8. At 50ms you can't tell the difference between the TV and the ceiling speakers. In my setup it's an exercise room, and there's a tv/soundbar as well as ceiling speakers. TV is used and spoken audio was tough to understand because of the "echo". Adding in the delay completely got rid of the issue... Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  9. I had the same issue about a year ago. I added a 50ms delay to the ceiling speakers and it got everything in sync. I used one of these on the ceiling speaker input https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/889746-REG/Sescom_SES_A_V_SYNC_A_V_Lip_Sync_Corrector.html Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
  10. Could this be used for a form of Geofencing, or more or less knowing "who" is at the residence? I sometimes find situations where it would be nice to know who's in the location. For example "Good Night" works well to turn off all of the lights and set the alarm, but doesn't work well when there's someone staying in the spare bedroom (Grandma and Grandpa are visiting the grandkids), because they may be brushing their teeth in the guest bathroom when you press the good night button - a button that is normally useful by turning off lights everywhere that may be on. The thought would be "if X is connected to the network, Goodnight button does A, else B."
  11. By this, is the method that you lock down room selection via the access agent, and then favorite everything that you want to have access to? If I'm understanding this correctly, basically you have to swipe side-to-side to get access to what's exposed via Favorites, eliminating the vertical all-encompassing rooms listing. I really wish there was a way to apply these restrictions at the specific location so I don't have to eliminate the functionality from all touchscreens. In our basement, there's no guessing where the table top T3 will wander to, and adding every room as a favorite could work, it still means having to swipe through 10 rooms to find the one that you're looking for.
  12. So I know that this has been discussed many times in the past, from people trying to lock rooms in commercial settings, rental units, and outdoors, but they all seem to be from pre-3.x, so here's to hoping something has changed. I have a T3 that I'd like to locate on the patio, or in the garage directly off of the patio. I don't want to expose door locks or the security system to this particular screen, because that would give people outside the perimeter of my home access to do things like unlock doors. I'd basically like to limit it to controlling the audio in that room, or the lights in that room. The problem is that for the other T3s (like in the kitchen / living room), I don't want to limit what they can access or force people to unlock them to control aspects of those rooms (because that would ultimately mean I have to hand out the code that would also unlock the outside screen), so I really only want the access agent on one touchscreen in one room. Is it possible to selectively use the access agent - or is there something that works better?
  13. Look at the sensor in the specs of the model you're looking at - most descriptions tell you the make / model of the sensor on the camera. If it says Starvis, then it's a StarLight. If it's Sony or something else, then it's not StarLight. That being said, I've found lots of typos in the specs and descriptions in the past. EmpireTech-Andy will know for sure. There's many people at ipcamtalk that use him when buying Dahua.
  14. I'd make sure that you upgrade to the StarLight version (Starvis sensor). They're far better than the regular Dahuas in low light (at night). I have both regular and starlight Dahuas, and there's no comparison between the two at night. The Starlight in my driveway is full color in the middle of the night with just a street light that's about 100' away and some landscape lights. I have another in the back, and that's full color with just landscaping lights...
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