dw886

Did you click on the Actions tab in Composer, and then click "Pair with TV" (and then approve the pairing request via the TV remote on the TV when it pops up)? I've seen them show offline but have other pieces populated correctly before the pairing process is complete.

Anyone know of a way to call the Samsung "TV Plus" app programmatically? I'd like to tie an experience button or a physical button to this. I don't see a mini driver for it, so I'm wondering if there's another way. It's the free streaming tv that comes with Samsung TVs these days... I know we can call a specific mini app (map it to a remote button or something), but without having the universal driver for it you can't tie it to something like "mini app 6" so not sure if there's a way to make this work...

I'm in the process of setting this up with IRUSB. Did you use the VideoStorm driver? When I do, it looks like I the "Menu" and "Guide" buttons on the Control4 side don't do anything (I'll probably remap "Menu" to the IRUSB "Home" button, as that seems to be what it should do). Did you have any issues with the "Guide" button, and if so, did you figure out a way around it?

Ouch, I was hoping there was a better solution. I have 3 of these to contend with. I may reach out to the manufacturer to see if USB debugging being disabled is from their end or the service provider. If I can get USB Debugging enabled, I'd imagine we could use Zank Remote and Alan's driver instead?

Did you ever get this to work, or did you end up building an IR driver?

There should be a setting in the Josh portal to add a "Response delay" to the microphone. That will probably fix it for the first time use in that room, but it may create a little lag once the system is up and running after a fresh audio sense.

Curious if anyone has any guidance on the range for the HD PowerView Gen 3 Pro gateway - it looks like the Pro unit can handle up to 30 shades, and is communicating with the shades using bluetooth low energy (BLE). Also looks like it can run using POE - wondering if there's a way to mount these, or if they have to sit on a counter / shelf somewhere. Also wondering what type of real-world range can you get from one of these? The shading guy is used to adding a remote to each shade, and not super familiar with integrating all of this with Control4 - wondering if there's someone on here with some experience that can chime in.

If you use a WiZ trim (like the Halo WiZ) behind a standard Control4 Keypad Dimmer, does this mess everything up as the power to the trims is being cut / restored when the light switch is turned off/on? We have a customer that is looking for some tunable trims to replace the existing trims outside so they can control the color for different holidays.

FWIW, I'm on a Ubiquiti setup with 5 WAPs and multiple NEEOs and don't have these issues. It's hard to dissect what's going on in your environment without having some diagnostics. If you have multiple remotes with the same issue, I'd lean towards it being a wifi issue. If it was a single remote, then I'd think that it was the remote and I'd start by swapping that Neeo with one in another room. If you have a wifi mapper it may give you more information on what's on the band. I was just looking through the logs from one of our Etherscopes to find an example - here's one where we were at a customer's home working on the network when they turned on the microwave. The interference spanned channels 4-12 - since it was a microwave, it was short lived - we likely just caught the end of it: For those on UBNT hardware, if you decide to lock it to an AP just toggle this under settings on the client - just remember that this carries some risk because if this AP goes down, this setting will keep the client offline because the client will not connect to another AP (also won't roam if you carry the NEEO to the other side of the house): Interestingly enough, it does look like the MAC addresses on the NEEOs changed at some point, pointing to a difference in WiFi hardware. Here's 3 NEEOs currently connected - the middle one is significantly newer than the top and bottom ones - although the signal that they are receiving is not significantly different. The one with the poorest signal is in the poorest location relative to the access points:

You're getting channel interference on 2.4GHz - a networking problem that's being exposed by the Neeo. Just because some other device that's on 2.4 is working well doesn't mean that it's not an interference issue - the Neeo may be closer to the interfering device that's operating on the 2.4GHz band, and the skybell (that's outside) may be further from the offending device negating the interference (and allowing it to communicate better with the wifi). As someone else already noted, for 2.4GHz, only channels 1, 6, or 11 should be used and a max width of 20Mhz to prevent channel overlap. Remember 2.4GHz has a ton of things operating on it outside of Wifi (microwaves, baby monitors, bluetooth, cordless phones, zigbee, wireless keyboards/mice, lots of hub/spoke devices like Blink cameras, etc), so just because you only see one SSID broadcasting doesn't mean that you have clean 2.4GHz airspace - a site survey would tell you what's all running in that range - right now we're just guessing. If trial and error is the approach rather than doing a proper scan / site survey with something like an etherscope, then you're doing the correct things (moving to channel 6). If that doesn't work, I'd go to 11. Without completely going into the technical weeds here, you can see in this example channel scan chart that in my example network there's something sitting too wide (40mhz) in the 1-6 range, so my airspace around channel 11 is cleaner - no idea what yours looks like without more diagnostic tools.

If it's a certain source input that's too loud, you could try adjusting the Input Level Trim (db). This way you may be able to get it where 100 on the Episode is actually close to the required level, and then everything would make more sense....

With access agent you can lock down the ability to change rooms. I set one touchscreen up where you can only swipe between 3 rooms that have been favorites - no other rooms. When you click the room name at the top to see the whole list of rooms (to change rooms, edit the favorite rooms, etc), you need the pin...

Perfect. No idea why I hadn't seen that before. Thank you!

So i know that you can use the navigator agent to push a camera stream to a touchscreen. I have a scenario where I have a C4 touchscreen near an entry point. When the alarm system is in an entry delay, I'd like to put the alarm keypad up on the control4 touchscreen so you don't have to hunt around looking for the alarm on the touchscreen. Am I missing something or is there not a way to do any programmatic touchscreen navigation other than the cameras?

Did you get this fixed? I have one Sony TV in a project controlled via IP, and it turns ON, switches input, controls volume, etc, - everythings works, but it will NOT turn OFF via IP...

This seems like this should be easy, but how do you set a parameter to the current time? (Same question for "Date"...) I'm looking to add the "time" to an announcement string. I am thinking that I can trigger on the announcement action to set a variable to the current time, and then include that into the announcement string. I looked through the system variables that are running on my project, and I don't see anything that I can re-use...

Yep. I emailed you yesterday with logs from devices.

@Darin, C4 PM UII have this same thing (Android Samsung S22 Ultra with all of the updates). I started a chat with support a few weeks back, and they said they hadn't heard anything about it. They suggested calling in vs trying to figure it out via chat. It was late on a Friday, and I never got around to sorting it out the following Monday since it's on our showroom. Happy to get you anything that you need to diagnose.

Have you tried disabling the power saving settings, and setting it to never go to sleep? For some reason the wired network connections on the Sony TVs seem to give more issues than wireless...

Funny that this comes up. I actually did this about 2 summers ago. I setup smart detection on a Dahua PTZ and setup a zone in the image for "object entered" with a target object size small enough to be a goose yet large enough to not catch blowing leaves, etc. When I turned on the "Goose Defense" experience button, it panned the camera to a specific PTZ preset that was looking at the back yard, and that PTZ preset had the smart events enabled. Then, when smart detection fired from the Dahua camera AND "Goose Defense" [variable controlled by an experience button] was "active", it would call the Rachio and start up the sprinklers for the zone in the back yard for 2 minutes. It was marginally successful until the kids figured it out. At first it scared our kids in the backyard more often than the geese, and eventually made for some wet kids that then turned it into a sprinkler party. After our kids playing jokes on the neighbor kids getting them to come into the yard unexpectedly, it became a "thing". Pretty soon the neighbor kids were doing it too, so while I still have it in my system it hasn't been activated for a while. Best thing to deter geese that I've found is a handheld laser (has to be dark enough for the bird to see the whole beam, so dusk to dawn, or a really overcast day). DNR uses something like this for bird control. Basically the bird sees the entire laser beam, and thinks it's a huge stick. They freak out. Downside is that it doesn't work during a sunny day.

I've seen this. If you have a lot of Lutron devices (say 60 lighting loads) and define an Advanced Lighting Scene in C4, adding all 60 Lutron lights to the load with a level of "Off". What happens behind the scenes is that the C4 controller sends 60 "Turn Master Bedroom Light Off", "Turn Master Bathroom Pendants Off", "Turn Master Bathroom Ceiling Cans Off", etc... commands. They start to pile up going from C4 --> Lutron, and you can see the Lutron lights gradually turning off around the house... If you create the "All Off" scene in Lutron Radio RA2, assign it to a phantom button on the Lutron Main Repeater, and then call the Lutron All Off command from the main repeater, this doesn't happen... May not be noticeable if it's only a few loads, but if there's lots, you can see it...

Is there a way to programmatically change the icon for a scenario button? Background: I'm having issues with the Pentair IntelliCenter driver in one project (I have another project that works fine) where when something is toggled in the driver it turns on, and then a few seconds later goes back to off - both are running the same version of the driver, so I'll have to call in to have someone take a look at it. In the mean time to work around it I used an Experience button (like Waterfall) for turning on the pool waterfall - there's no timers set within the project - they're only ON / OFF buttons. The IntelliCenter is running it's own timers, so when certain things (water features, heat modes, lights, etc) are turned on, the Intellicenter has an egg timer where it shuts these things back off after a set period of time. The problem that I have is if something is turned on via the Control4 interface (like the fountain), the experience button icon changes, however when the IntelliCenter turns them back off after the egg timer expires (or someone uses the Pentair panel or mobile app), the Control4 icons are out-of-sync. I can see these events in the driver, and can program off of them, but I don't see any action for the experience button other than "Select" or "Device Specific Command: SetCountdown". Is there not a way to change the state of the button to a specific state (Off or On)? If it's just "Select" this would be like a power toggle on the a TV, you're firing a command and not understanding the current state. The only other option that I see is to fire the event, run a conditional check that looks for the "State" device variable on the Experience Button, and then if the state is on and it's supposed to be off, fire the select command to toggle it... Is there a better approach?

I work on pools as well as control4. Just a point of clarification in this thread because it seems that there is some confusion as to what equipment people have. Easytouch / Intellitouch are both systems that were designed 10+ years ago that are still being sold. Intellitouch just has more expansion capabilities than the Easytouch, but both are largely the same, and the panels have no rj45 port on them. The 4 wire bus from the panel either connects to a wireless module that gets mounted by the panel and sends the 4-wire signal wirelessly to a receiver that connects to the screen logic adapter which has the rj45 network port jack for network connection, or you need to run the 4 wire from the panel directly to the screen logic adapter, which has the rj45 port that gets connected to the network. Easytouch has no control4 driver. Intellitouch has a driver and can be connected but it's a bit of a mess and requires finding some old hardware. Easytouch looks like this. Intellitouch looks almost the same but doesn't have a screen. Intellicenter is the newer system that has a touchscreen on the actual panel in the load center. This was in development and announced like in 2017, but didn't really hit the market until like the mid/end of 2019. The dates and the touchscreen will both help you understand which one you have. The intellicenter has an rj45 port directly on the circuit board (on the back of the panel). If you don't have a network cable run to the load center, then Pentair sells a kit that basically is a bridged AP. It connects to the rj45 on the intellicenter panel with a POE injector to power it, and you set up the AP to connect to your existing wifi bridging the connection to make the intellicenter part of your network. Intellicenter has a Control4 driver, and if your intellicenter is connected to your network, no additional hardware is required. Integration works reasonably well. I have seen sometimes when turning off an intellicenter circuit (which could basically be like a slide or something) the driver will toggle it back and forth multiple times before completely turning it off. Other than that, adjusting heat settings etc all seems to work reasonably well. Intellicenter lacks buttons and instead has a touchscreen. Looks like this:

Anyone else that's using this driver recently start getting failures? This quit working for me - the MP3 file never gets updated. When I look at the Google API, i can see that failures started sometime around the very end of Feb / beginning of March: Looks like something is failing when calling the Google Text to Speech API, but I cannot see the failure to see if it's a misconfiguration issue on my Google account, or if it's something with the driver.

My point isn't so much about having an issue, it's more about the fact that it's perceived as "random". I work with software, and I know, there's very little that's "random" unless you're calling random in your code intentionally. Code doesn't "randomly" work. There's always a reason why these things work the way that they do. I'm more concerned with the lack of accountability. I played this whole thing out with UBNT support just to see what happens, and how they troubleshoot. What I'm learning is that they don't. I gathered heaps of logs, tried to help them help themselves help me, and at the end they threw their hands up, and said the obvious "the unit seems to have some internal issues". We have no idea at this point if it's the hardware, the software, or possibly the config. So right now, we go down the RMA path, and may well be at the same point 3 weeks from now if it's a software issue or an issue with the config. Day 1, chat goes for 3 hours, chat agent "moves incident to Tier 2" via email and asks me to reply to the initial email with the logs. Day 2 @ 4:56pm, email support rep finally picks up the case, and replies asking me to send the "support info" file, which I had given via chat on Day 1. I replied with that, and gave them the exact lines in the log to look at to try to determine what was taking place. I know within a few minutes of when things went offline, because I can see them go offline in OVRC, and it correlates to lines in the log that show the switch in the UDM restarting. Day 3, no updates Day 4 @ 12:55pm, email support agent says "I am escalating this to our Tier 2 Team and they will get back to you as soon as possible.", which is what the chat agent told me on Day 1 Day 5 @ 5:52am, email support replies and says: "The unit seems to have some internal issues. I'd suggest performing the Recovery as suggested in the below-given help article and see if that fixes the issue. https://help.ui.com/hc/en-us/articles/360043360253-UniFi-UDM-UXG-Emergency-Recovery-Mode-UI If that doesn't help, you can go ahead and file the RMA. Hope that's helpful. If you have any other questions, please let us know!" The moral of the story here is that you'd better have backup hardware on hand, and don't waste time expecting them to diagnose and fix an issue. It's far cheaper for them to send you a $379 UDM than to put someone on this that's skilled enough to dig in.