Jump to content
c4forums | The Control4 Community

tcwalker5

c4Forums Member
  • Posts

    152
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

tcwalker5 last won the day on July 17

tcwalker5 had the most liked content!

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

tcwalker5's Achievements

  1. I've been unsuccessfully searching for a thread that I think @Cyknightposted some time ago about setting thermostat to use a remote sensor. If I recall, it was not the wired remote sensor I'm using today. I'd like to use something like the z2io or something similar. Can someone either point me to that post or share how to set that up on the thermostat? Or maybe I'm just remembering incorrectly.🤪
  2. Thanks for the clarification. I have IntelliTouch. Bummer. Will consider upgrading in the future.
  3. I see that is IP control. I don't have that and am not familiar with how Pentair works. Is that an upgrade I need to add, or does it come by default and I just need to plug in the ethernet or configure WiFi?
  4. About a week or so ago my 8-zone C4 amp stopped making sound. After a bit of basic troubleshooting, I determined that the amp is no longer turning on with audio. It works fine when always on. The 12v trigger does not turn it on either. Has anyone seen this before?
  5. Going back to the 3d printer comments. With the ability to send prints online for almost nothing, it can be an approachable solution. Does anyone have a sketch with the dimensions? I'm happy to build it in CAD and make the .stl file available to anyone who needs it.
  6. I had 2 8-zone amps fail in 3 years. So I would not say good.
  7. Interesting. My dealer never mentioned anything about which lights are compatible vs not. My assumption was that it just works. My light fixtures are all types of lights mostly LED. We have 2 problems. One is the LED strip under the kitchen cabinets. When they are dimmed below a certain level, they start to blink. The other are various can lights that will flicker even when set to 100%. The electrician said it was the fixture and replaced it. This happens from time to time on different can lights. I wonder if what I am seeing is what you are referring to?
  8. I got rookie a couple of days ago. Far less posts than you. Must be a huge jump from rookie to the next rank. Out of curiosity, has anyone seen what the rank level goals are?
  9. I've been looking for something like this for my Daikin. Thanks for positing.
  10. I have panelized lighting and use the wired keypads. One of my keypads (and only one) has stopped working. Unless it is coincidentally the last one on the bus, the fact that all other keypads work leads me to believe that the bus is operational. One LED is illuminated, but it doesn't match the programmed button. I have tried to reboot the keypad with 15 taps, but that hasn't helped. My next step would be to factory reset. But I'm reluctant to do that in case it leaves the keypad in a state that I can't access. What do you suggest I try to further troubleshoot?
  11. My exhaust to exterior is a 4" flexible dryer duct that goes from the top of the closet straight down to ground level outside so about 8'. Not the ideal route but because the path is short it might not be too bad. I've tried to read up on how many CFM the duct can handle but can't seem to find conclusive answer. So my question is, can I get a larger fan to move more air at slower speeds (and hopefully quieter) and still move adequate air, or should I match the fan size to the duct size? Quietest option is the goal.
  12. I'm curious what most installers do regarding patch panels or direct connect home runs to switches. I requested that every jack in every room be hot for data. So it is a 1:1 cable to switch port ratio. My installer decided to bring the home run directly to the switch. But after reading more about this, I feel like they should have used a patch panel. What is the consensus among installers?
×
×
  • Create New...