Time2Jet

They are located on our PA and MI warehouses. Should have at least 1 of each model at each location. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am clearing out all of our remaining 2022-2023 Samsung Displays. I can ship nationwide. All displays can be registered for full mfr warranty. All are brand new original unopened boxes. Here’s what I have left. I have multiples of most. Some as many as 15 pieces. If you spend more than $5,000, I will fully cover shipping. CUSA shipping only. Class 8K QLED QN75QN900BFXZA Samsung 75" $ 1,700.00 QN65QN900BFXZA Samsung 65" $ 1,350.00 QN75QN800BFXZA Samsung 75" $ 1,400.00 QN65QN800CFXZA Samsung 65" $ 1,560.00 Class 4K QLED QN75QN95BAFXZA Samsung 75" $ 1,400.00 QN70Q60BAFXZA Samsung 70" $ 600.00 QN50QN90CAFXZA Samsung 50" $ 750.00 QN50Q80BAFXZA Samsung 50" $ 625.00 Class 4K OLED QN77S95CAFXZA Samsung 77" $ 1,600.00 QN55S95CAFXZA Samsung 55" $ 1,400.00 Class 4K LCD UHD UN75CU8000FXZA Samsung 75" $ 575.00 I have $99 built in to each price to help offset shipping costs. I shipped several from the northeast to Texas residential for $250 total, so shipping will be reasonable. Zelle/Venmo. No tax. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is a problem that has plagued Gen3 lighting since it's release. For the cost of these devices, I expect better. Truly.

lol, I definitely did read that wrong. Regardless, welcome and sorry you are having these struggles. You’ll likely need dwskwe intervention. There are a lot of people here from Aus, maybe even a dealer in your area. If not someone might could at least recommend. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

First thing I’d do is unplug the EA5, wait about a minute to discharge and plug back in. Long shot, but still the beat tool in any tech guys back. The power cycle. Just post here once you’ve tried. I’ve also been able to bring the back to life with a factory reset and restore (it’s not something you can do yourself without a dealer as it involves re-imaging in a sequence depending upon your current OS and the original OS the EA shipped with) Try the physical power cycle first and report back. There are a lot of people here to help see if you can revive it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

“The guys on here are not overly helpful”. That’s rubbish. Every single response, even the ones you didn’t like were meant to try to help you. Control4 is a trained professional dealer centric system that can only truly be maintained by an authorized dealer. A good dealer relationship is what you need and that costs money. 99% of the authorized dealers are fair and understanding. Each issue you mentioned got some feedback. I think were you felt assailed was when a member suggested you focus on solution vs problem, as you clearly laid out all of the problems in your original post. Get a dealer out to assess. Sounds like your existing guy is an electrician and that’s great, but won’t get you far in terms of addressing all of these gremlins. Go to the list of dealers in your control4.com portal and note who’s nearby and call them and explain you have cbus lighting and third party camera drivers. They’ll either know how to get you fixed up or they’ll be honest if they don’t. Once you find an authorized dealer you’ll have a relationship whereby 80% of any issues that pop up can be fixed remotely. Best of luck. Welcome to the forum (you definitely are welcome here, this is a great place and there are great people here… even ones that tell you things you don’t want to hear). Call a dealer and explain the system and the issues. They’ll whip you into shape and be there moving forward. Electricians are highly skilled tradesman, but Control4 is a highly specialized automation platform that requires an authorized dealer skilled in the overall system. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What controller are you running and on which OS? What drivers are you using for the Camera>Control4 integration and for Lighting>C4 integration. Sadly, FireTV is not a great media player option. As mentioned above, that’s on Amazon, not C4. Can you try AppleTV or Shield? Both work nicely, (though Roku is still the deepest solid integration) and with the addition of the new IR fallback option for AppleTV it should be more solid. What brand is your TStat? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Having a Dealer look into this is best practice. Having some LED activity is promising, but not 100% certainty that you can recover it. There are a few further steps that can be attempted. ie: A Network Reset and/or a Factory Restore. Perhaps one of us dealers here can give you a hand. My experience is that mist here are very reasonable. It’s worth the try. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What OS are you on? Can you upgrade to an EA controller? You can find used EA1’s very reasonable right now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you rebooted the network? Are there any lights lit on the controller? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A Dealer needs to add the EA5 and make proper bindings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Have you tried power cycling the controller? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That all looks good. I don’t know the driver (Wiim) so not sure if there is anything in the driver properties. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s strange. Try rebooting your controller and if that doesn’t correct it can you screenshot your device connections and room endpoints? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like the audio endpoint connection is wrong.