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time2jet last won the day on August 13

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About time2jet

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  1. Well, it’s back at it again. Here’s what I learned coming into last night. It’s likely not the balun (as I replicated the issue locally). It’s likely not the source devices (as it has effected Roku, TiVo and BluRay... even though they went down separately. It quite possibly could be limited to Zone 2 (but it’s so tricky and flakey that I haven’t 100% ruled out the main zone). So, that brings it to Cables or the Denon. If it ends up being the Denon X8500, that’ll be a nightmare to have to disconnect, box up, send out, wait and reconnect. It knocks the two main zones out for 2-3 weeks? Holidays coming and guests over. My busiest season at work... just all around frustrating. I have ordered all new certified Blue Jeans cables for everything in the project. Although, all of the cables now are certified and respected brands, I’m going to just have them all of the same. Something about 2-3 brands or series is bothering me. I gave away my X3500 to one of my techs... which in retrospect could have been used to eliminate having a Zone 2 Video output and would have allowed me 3 additional zones for HEOS. (I’m moving from Sonos). I did grab some additional EA-1’s and another BluRay, so I could have only matrixed sources had I kept it. Regardless, it’s sad that with an MSRP of $4499... the X8500 doesn’t do well what it’s advertised to do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. It’s “working”. I tread lightly. Roku tech explained that the 9.2 update for whatever reason didn’t fully implement on each Roku device, but would. Some device chips took the update and showed updated, but the update was slow to actually complete. For other identical devices, it was immediate. A reset won’t help this. So, I assume whatever part of that update effected Netflix or how Netflix works, was slow to “take”. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Both Sold. Thank you everyone. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I have both an EA-1 v1 and EA-3 v1 (both new) for sale. These came out of a ex-dealer showroom that were actually never installed. PM me if interested. Paypal fees and shipping will be added. Only offered to existing forum members please. No members that joined "today". Been down that route before!
  5. Here's a good one for you... I was researching this issue and Denon's technical says to use the HDMI input closest to the HDMI output? In this case, the LR (Monitor 1) definitely is closer to "game" input versus the DVD input is further away from the Zone 2 output. The LR works fine with the Roku, same cables, same balun, same everything. How crazy it that... have to use the inputs/outputs physically closer on the Denon.
  6. According to the Roku forums, I guess that the latest update caused issues with some boxes, but not all (even of the same model/version). I feel that Mitch was correct and this could have been the root cause. Timing is right. Do you have a recommended setting versus "auto"? This is so strange that it only affected one of my Roku's they are set up identically. I remember a while back reading somewhere that the Zone 2 output of the latest X series Denon's may only pass 1080p. I cannot get anyone, including Denon to confirm that. But that too could be why. In addition to everything else, I am replacing all HDMI cables, any recommendations. I like Blue Jean, have an issue with those?
  7. So my mind went there too, but then why just all of the sudden? I think I added Roku’s in July and they’ve always worked extremely well. Once I get to the bottom of this, I’m going to look into an actual matrix. It could serve both to distribute audio and video, since I was about to invest in an audio matrix. I can’t even troubleshoot the Denon (without standing at the rack with its IR remote), because the Denon app doesn’t like the iOS update and crashes everytine I launch its OSD. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I have a bunch of lighting occupancy timers fired off of motion (and lack of motion). I want to have 3 dimmer switches fire to 50% upon motion. I set it up this was via timers and programming, but it’s flakey. Lights fire, but when they sense additional motion the flicker for a second (as though they’re checking the lighting level again). Any ideas? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. As it stands now I have (all distributed from a rack room): EA-5 65 Lights/Dimmer Switches (Caseta) 4 - KD-120 2 - Z2io 11 -TP Link Bulbs and a Energy Plug Nest TStat 2 - Kwikset Door Locks 10 - Motion Sensors Card Access WMS models ( do these mesh?) EA-5 Music Services all being matrixed via HDMI via Denon to the 2 extended rooms. 1 A/V Zone 7.2.4 via Denon X8500 extended via HDBaseT Monitor 1 with isolated ROKU, TiVo and matrixed C4 OSD and Samsung BluRay 1 A/V Zone (Sonos 5.1) sources extended from same Denon via HDBaseT Zone 2 with isolated ROKU, TiVo and matrixed C4 OSD and Samsung BluRay 6 Alexa Echo/Spot (adding more v3 Dots) Also: Adding Zone 3 (local A/V) Bedroom (Sonos) Adding Zone 4 (local A/V) Loft (Soundbar) Adding Zone 5 (local A/V) Kitchen/Sonos Adding a Ring Elite Door Bell and a few cameras. Plus a ring cam/motion/flood. Then finally a complete security system. Lastly, 3 Additional Audio Rooms being added (Bathrooms) (not sure how quite yet have in-ceilings to pull back to the rack). Here’s what I have gathered additionally: EA-3 v1 and 1 SR260 EA-1 v1 and 1 SR260 2 Additional KD-120’s I’m thinking I sell the EA-3 and grab another 2 EA-1’s and remotes. I’d install them in Zone 2 (MBR), Bedroom & Loft. The kitchen is open to the main zone and could just use a remote. Don’t need OSD there. Don’t really use OSD anyway outside of the Main and Zone 2 (MBR). The extra EA’s would be more for my mesh and hopes of relieving the EA5 of some load. Any ideas of a good way to add (with these controllers) performance and features to my setup? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. What sort of switch is it? Certain switches require a minimum load. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Yes Mitch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. After 30 minutes, failed locally. Same issue. Roku stops launching. (Balun hasn’t been in the equation, so that quite probably eliminates balun causing handshake issues) Now my rule outs are: (asking?) Roku Player itself Network (Ethernet control) Denon Input Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Yes Ari. Thank you. I have just replicated this same situation bypassing the balun. That said, logically the balun as the issue can likely be eliminated. ***Unless*** that balun is causing the handshake issues. I’d like to think it isn’t considering it’s the best AVPro Edge sells (but who knows). Many years ago I got involved with them when I was a commercial distributor for DTV and was doing bar and restaurant A/V work. I seriously never had one fail. Not to say... Here’s what information that could be helpful: All done locally with my test TV: I’ve power cycled that room’s Roku and then replaced the HDMI cable. It seems to be functioning as expected now. I would want to think that situation may be resolved, but... even when extended by balun during these problems, I was able to get the Roku’s mini apps to launch and stay connected after a Roku power cycle... but it didn’t hold. I’m going to continue to remain local fir a bit and try to confuse it by switching between inputs and going from room off direct, etc. Roku aside, oddly my Samsung SDDP BluRay (matrixed) keeps losing its WOL. I have had it identified and set up properly and working for weeks, then suddenly it decides not to WOL. By physically turning it off, I was just able to get it to wake from both zones it’s matrixed to. It’s very odd. I understand Matrixing through an AVR is inexpensive, but that it frankly isn’t best practice. I thought with a little higher end (Denon X8500) it would be better. Not really. It works (this issue aside), just not nearly as smooth and fast and reliably as a true matrix. So right now all we did was output local and power cycle then replace the HDMI on the Roku. It seems to all be working. When this is under control, I need a recommendation fir HDMI cables. I have used AudioQuest for years, from low to high end. I also have used Blue Jeans products. I’ve only had one AudioQuest failed so far no Blue Jeans fails. The cables that are seemingly having these issues (if it’s an EDID or cable itself issue) are sadly a cheap generic high spec line that I bought in a pinch thinking I needed a higher spec to pass HDR over these baluns. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. It’s acting up again. Denon is definitely switching (can watch the switch as I select one of the inputs). But the Roku and BluRay aren’t feeding consistently. Somehow the TiVo is, but seems a little slow/sluggish to launch. Not sure where to start troubleshooting. Everything, but the rack itself will be a nightmare to access. (Line/Rx). I really feel like this could be HDMI cable versus balun related. But I’m going to first power cycle the AVR/Input Devices and TX before I start swapping out HDMI cables. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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