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time2jet

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time2jet last won the day on August 13 2019

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About time2jet

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  1. Lastly, call an electrician. I know nothing and am lucky to be alive after wiring 50 switches this weekend. And that’s only thanks to a few people here that know what they’re doing. (a ton of great guys here do, but in my case @dcovach , @lippavisual, @msgreenf and. @ILoveC4 we’re godsends). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Connect the blacks together on the KA side, you don’t need them to attach to your Aux Switch. With a KA, you’re really just pulsing the main switch to open and close contacts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Please turn off the breaker first. Triple check that there’s no power in that box before you continue to tinker. I know it sounds stupid. But we’ve all been back and forth to that breaker box a bunch of times on one switch install. Sometimes we lose track. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Honestly, I just was down this road. The red in your box is the traveler. Switch/Box Red>Load (Black) Yellow>Traveler (Red) White/Neutral (White) Black/Common (Black) Green/Ground (Green or Copper) KA/Box Blue/Neutral (White) Yellow/Traveler (Red) Green/Ground (Green or Copper) The load in your box will be black (typically). The load is fed by black/white and ground, same with power. Travelers are 3 wire (adds red) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. I’m following this thread. I had just asked about any benefit of adding a Sonos Connect to my Denon X8500. My goal is controlling all seamlessly via C4. (No separate apps ) other than Spotify... the dreaded Spotify Connect dilemma. I own a house full of Sonos and am trying to avoid a physical matrix. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I’m going to mark this thread resolved. Here’s what I learned: 1. Conventional switch wiring doesn’t always apply to C4 switch wiring. Especially in multi-way switching and if blending KA’s and KC’s. (Thanks. @dcovach , @msgreenf & especially. @ILoveC4 (who went above and beyond to help!). Great, very smart, tenacious people here. I’m very glad for all of you, and anyone else that contributed. 2. If you pick an electrician out of the yellow pages (do they still have those?), odds are he’ll need to talk to a dealer or C4. (Thanks @lippavisual, you were spot on about exorcising the ghost in my KD and both you and Dan mentioning to school an electrician before they embark on installing switches). I ended up not needing to use one for my switches, but I completely understand the struggle one might encounter. And frankly, in defense of a few members that got beaten up pretty badly in some prior threads, the wiring diagrams do not cover multi-location switches well. (A video series would be sweet... hint, Mitch). 3. LED’s are tricky. As are committing to engraving. I get we have to help do it for clients, but I’m going to live with mine for a long while until I feel more comfortable with what’s best for the way my family lives. 4. I can already tell how much better things work (remotes, motion sensors, wireless contact sensors, relays etc. with this new mesh). I frankly loved my Caseta for the price, especially when @The_Good_Guy taught me how to get C4 to recognize over the 50 device limit of the Caseta driver. I’ll even be keeping Pico’s for table side lamp control, etc for guests. But the C4 lighting, albeit 2.5 times the cost, is very very impressive. I’m happy with the move. Thanks guys. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Well, I got the majority of the single pole switches installed and programmed (LEDs) are always tricky. Back to the 3-4-5 ways. I was able to get the load working fine, but I cannot get the KCs to turn back on the load. They work fine to turn it off. The basics are that there is a traveler rbw to each location I have the reds connected to the yellow at the load switch and then daisy chained outside of the switches. The neutral and hot w/b run through or two each switch. It’s clear that the KCs are only energized when the KD load is on, so that explains why they turn off the load, but cannot turn it back on. I assume it’s something very simple. I understand that the KCs are simply radios and just need energized to allow for events via binding or programming. This is why I wonder whether the yellow traveler at the KD even needs to run. Right now leaving the KD I have the yellow attached to what typically would be the red traveler. Since this isn’t a true multi-way, do I need that? I have a feeling the white neutral is the issue. It’s white to white everywhere in the entire circuit, black to black and yellow to red (but again, I’m not running the red through the KCs, just white/black and ground. Thank you all for the help. As Dan mentioned, C4 (and other smart switches) aren’t necessarily wired like conventional circuits. And the whole RTM or RTKB argument isn’t as relevant as one would think. I can wire KA’s fine. Wiring diagrams for that are everywhere. Cannot find my scenario anywhere. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Good info. Researching now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. @eggzlot What are the specs for VS? Can it pass HDR@60HZ? Do you know if it can do 4:4:4 subsampling? This is really interesting. I’ve always followed that you integrated it, upsides, downsides? I’m looking for a new matrix solution anyway. This could be interesting. I’ve looked at JAP, Atlona and my personal favorite AVPro Edge. Right now I’m TiVo mini VOX’s fir video to 3 locations and HDBaseT fir audio and vid to 2 other main zones through my Denon X8500. AVR’s suck at matrixing. I need a better solution. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Yes. Thank you. I printed your diagrams and am reviewing against what I have. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I should have been clearer. pop up texts on the screen while watching TV in any room is what i’m looking for. i have it set up, but it takes forever for the inputs to switch to OSD. All still applies? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. 5-Way (Here’s precisely what I have) 2 Gang Box 1 (want KD or KC) B/W/G - Pwr from Breaker R/B/W/G - Traveler B/W/G - Single Pole Load to Exterior Lamp (Not related, other than shares power in this box from the breaker). 2 Gang Box 2 (want KD or KC) B/W/G - Load R/B/W/G - Traveler Single Gang Box 3 (KA) R/B/W/G - Traveler R/B/W/G - Traveler 2 Gang Box 4 (KC) R/B/W/G - Traveler R/B/W/G - Traveler for another 3-way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. this installs locally, one at each display? i have EA-1s going in locally, but I assume the delay to switch ports won’t be much better than my extended EA-5? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Unfortunately, my displays are Samsung. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Does anyone know a way to display a text announcement on a TV, or send a snapshot to a display, short of having it have to switch over to OSD (which takes forever)? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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