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time2jet

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Everything posted by time2jet

  1. Lastly, call an electrician. I know nothing and am lucky to be alive after wiring 50 switches this weekend. And that’s only thanks to a few people here that know what they’re doing. (a ton of great guys here do, but in my case @dcovach , @lippavisual, @msgreenf and. @ILoveC4 we’re godsends). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Connect the blacks together on the KA side, you don’t need them to attach to your Aux Switch. With a KA, you’re really just pulsing the main switch to open and close contacts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Please turn off the breaker first. Triple check that there’s no power in that box before you continue to tinker. I know it sounds stupid. But we’ve all been back and forth to that breaker box a bunch of times on one switch install. Sometimes we lose track. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Honestly, I just was down this road. The red in your box is the traveler. Switch/Box Red>Load (Black) Yellow>Traveler (Red) White/Neutral (White) Black/Common (Black) Green/Ground (Green or Copper) KA/Box Blue/Neutral (White) Yellow/Traveler (Red) Green/Ground (Green or Copper) The load in your box will be black (typically). The load is fed by black/white and ground, same with power. Travelers are 3 wire (adds red) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. I’m following this thread. I had just asked about any benefit of adding a Sonos Connect to my Denon X8500. My goal is controlling all seamlessly via C4. (No separate apps ) other than Spotify... the dreaded Spotify Connect dilemma. I own a house full of Sonos and am trying to avoid a physical matrix. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I’m going to mark this thread resolved. Here’s what I learned: 1. Conventional switch wiring doesn’t always apply to C4 switch wiring. Especially in multi-way switching and if blending KA’s and KC’s. (Thanks. @dcovach , @msgreenf & especially. @ILoveC4 (who went above and beyond to help!). Great, very smart, tenacious people here. I’m very glad for all of you, and anyone else that contributed. 2. If you pick an electrician out of the yellow pages (do they still have those?), odds are he’ll need to talk to a dealer or C4. (Thanks @lippavisual, you were spot on about exorcising the ghost in my KD and both you and Dan mentioning to school an electrician before they embark on installing switches). I ended up not needing to use one for my switches, but I completely understand the struggle one might encounter. And frankly, in defense of a few members that got beaten up pretty badly in some prior threads, the wiring diagrams do not cover multi-location switches well. (A video series would be sweet... hint, Mitch). 3. LED’s are tricky. As are committing to engraving. I get we have to help do it for clients, but I’m going to live with mine for a long while until I feel more comfortable with what’s best for the way my family lives. 4. I can already tell how much better things work (remotes, motion sensors, wireless contact sensors, relays etc. with this new mesh). I frankly loved my Caseta for the price, especially when @The_Good_Guy taught me how to get C4 to recognize over the 50 device limit of the Caseta driver. I’ll even be keeping Pico’s for table side lamp control, etc for guests. But the C4 lighting, albeit 2.5 times the cost, is very very impressive. I’m happy with the move. Thanks guys. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. Well, I got the majority of the single pole switches installed and programmed (LEDs) are always tricky. Back to the 3-4-5 ways. I was able to get the load working fine, but I cannot get the KCs to turn back on the load. They work fine to turn it off. The basics are that there is a traveler rbw to each location I have the reds connected to the yellow at the load switch and then daisy chained outside of the switches. The neutral and hot w/b run through or two each switch. It’s clear that the KCs are only energized when the KD load is on, so that explains why they turn off the load, but cannot turn it back on. I assume it’s something very simple. I understand that the KCs are simply radios and just need energized to allow for events via binding or programming. This is why I wonder whether the yellow traveler at the KD even needs to run. Right now leaving the KD I have the yellow attached to what typically would be the red traveler. Since this isn’t a true multi-way, do I need that? I have a feeling the white neutral is the issue. It’s white to white everywhere in the entire circuit, black to black and yellow to red (but again, I’m not running the red through the KCs, just white/black and ground. Thank you all for the help. As Dan mentioned, C4 (and other smart switches) aren’t necessarily wired like conventional circuits. And the whole RTM or RTKB argument isn’t as relevant as one would think. I can wire KA’s fine. Wiring diagrams for that are everywhere. Cannot find my scenario anywhere. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Good info. Researching now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. @eggzlot What are the specs for VS? Can it pass HDR@60HZ? Do you know if it can do 4:4:4 subsampling? This is really interesting. I’ve always followed that you integrated it, upsides, downsides? I’m looking for a new matrix solution anyway. This could be interesting. I’ve looked at JAP, Atlona and my personal favorite AVPro Edge. Right now I’m TiVo mini VOX’s fir video to 3 locations and HDBaseT fir audio and vid to 2 other main zones through my Denon X8500. AVR’s suck at matrixing. I need a better solution. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Yes. Thank you. I printed your diagrams and am reviewing against what I have. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I should have been clearer. pop up texts on the screen while watching TV in any room is what i’m looking for. i have it set up, but it takes forever for the inputs to switch to OSD. All still applies? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. 5-Way (Here’s precisely what I have) 2 Gang Box 1 (want KD or KC) B/W/G - Pwr from Breaker R/B/W/G - Traveler B/W/G - Single Pole Load to Exterior Lamp (Not related, other than shares power in this box from the breaker). 2 Gang Box 2 (want KD or KC) B/W/G - Load R/B/W/G - Traveler Single Gang Box 3 (KA) R/B/W/G - Traveler R/B/W/G - Traveler 2 Gang Box 4 (KC) R/B/W/G - Traveler R/B/W/G - Traveler for another 3-way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. this installs locally, one at each display? i have EA-1s going in locally, but I assume the delay to switch ports won’t be much better than my extended EA-5? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Unfortunately, my displays are Samsung. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Does anyone know a way to display a text announcement on a TV, or send a snapshot to a display, short of having it have to switch over to OSD (which takes forever)? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Thanks everyone for the PM’s. The first wave of displays will ship tomorrow! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. What’s your zip code? I’ll PM you in the morning. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. This is pretty much how I've always used Alexa. I thought there was some sort of breakthrough!
  19. Fellow forum members, effective immediately and for a limited time (until the 20th), I will be offering deep discounts on new warranted Samsung Displays and Soundbar products. If you have any interest, please send me the model number and your zip code and I can quote you a price. It is my goal to offer our forum members a discounted price with full mfr warranty. All that said, in no way am I trying to interrupt any relationship with a dealer you may have (If your C4 dealer also sells displays), so please don't ask if you have a solid relationship with your dealer, I don't want anyone price shopping against their dealer or costing their dealers money matching pricing. Those are the guys that pour their blood sweat and tears into your projects with installs, etc. So I definitely cannot upset those relationships. Many of them are my friends. If for whatever reason this price shopping against your dealers becomes the case, I will cease these offers entirely. I try to be the best forum member I can be. So many of you have been so helpful to me and I don't care for this to cause an rifts.
  20. Starting to get confusing again. From what I am reading, this is already what Alexa does via C4. I can tell Alexa to turn on and off everything anywhere. This grouping (which I use already for lamps, etc). in any room on any Alexa device (Turn of Master Lamps) already works fine. (Except my Z2io Fireplace? HELP?). What is different about this method?
  21. Has to be something that makes this system better if only on the Sonos side? Should I ditch for Heos? I’ve been known to change directions deep into a project. I want C4 integration and smooth app operation of zones. I like to use OSD for music. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. @ILoveC4 Your grasp of electricity and circuits is superb. It was your suggestion that slayed the ghost that was turning on my KD load without rhyme or reason. As for 3-4-5 ways, for the sake of laying out my devices, does the actual load switch need to be at the load box? I have 2 scenarios that I’d love to install a KD at the Aux box and a KA or KC at the load box. I’d you’d share, it’d be greatly appreciated. In the meantime, I’m going to run this through my head a few times based upon what you’ve already shared. There may be something there that translates to this scenario. Thanks always. Sometimes until your challenges you don’t realize you have the capacity to “learn” by listening, rather than attempt via trial and error. Nit the best idea when it comes to electricity. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. 5-way switches can be brutal. I have a situation where the load and power are in two separate boxes. Is that common? And if that's the case, where do you install the load control? Has to be at the load location, correct? Then I'd guess you energize the switch via the local power. Just seems strange that the breaker for the circuit is in a different box than the load. I have an electrician coming out. I'm not touching this, just trying to understand.
  24. I'll try this when I get over there tonight @lippavisual Thanks always. Not having the same issue with any Roku mini apps fed via Zone 2 of the Denon (different Roku, same AVR, same baluns)... except Prime. It is the only of the 100 Roku apps that has issues.
  25. I have several zones of Sonos, but my main listening area is passive speakers powered by a Denon X8500H. Would there be a benefit of adding a Sonos Connect to the AVR? Seems it would make things smoother when grouping sessions, etc. But are there any C4 benefits? I struggle so much with the Sonos/C4 thing. I've had a lot of issues, to the point that I don't use C4 to play music any longer. Hit or miss whether anything will play, etc.
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