Jump to content
C4 Forums | Control4

EverAction

c4Forums Member
  • Posts

    103
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

EverAction's Achievements

  1. I cracked the plastic tab on one of my engraved keycaps and need to order a new one. Previous dealer unavailable, can any dealer's oblige my request? It's for a V2 keypad, Snow White (the matte one), a "3 button" keycap that says "Kitchen":
  2. I still have my original VM when I was working for a dealer with a saved login. Cancel button ftw!
  3. Figured I’d pay this forward like always, I ended up figuring this out. A broken solenoid valve feeding my humidifier prompted me to revisit this. It’s amazing how bad the air quality got in my house because of the stopper valve. I had a C4-THERM lying around and replaced my legacy C4 thermostat with it. After replacing the valve I wanted to know what the relative humidity was in the house which the C4-THERM supplies. I lacked enough wires in the thermostat wire to hard wire the humidity control, so originally I thought about getting a Z2IO. But for some reason I completely ignored the HC800 10 feet away from the valve in the same closet. I ran the 24vac connection for the humidifier valve from the control board on my HVAC to red lead going to NO. The COM goes back via the white wire connected to the valve. The other valve wire goes back to the COM on the HVAC control board. Programming looks for changes in variable HUMIDITY_STATE on the C4-THERM. If string is “Off”, open relay. If string is “Humidifying”, close relay. So now I get a Humidity read on my mobile app, along with the valve status from showing the relay in my equipment room. Next to setup reminds to change the humidifier pad (which will also remind me to check the valve for build up). I should have done this long ago. Hope this helps anyone else dealing with an analog humidistat on their return with no read out.
  4. LOL after all the hassle trying to get the old school Fire TV working over IP I'll believe the reliability of this when I see it.
  5. Correct, or if you're integrated to an audio source have the button press trigger a chime out of an audio source. Some of the new smart doorbells come with their own plug in chime like the Ring Chime. I remember at one site we had a Doorbird customer that when the Doorbird was pressed, it would alert via a Zigbee chime. I can't remember the brand though.
  6. Depending on the gauge of the wire just you'll have to tone out the pair and splice in a 18-24DC transformer at the other end. There's no way to get it powered off of the Nutone bus.
  7. FYI, you have the right idea but the product isn’t up to the challenge. The light sensors in the V2 lighting are notorious for poor readings. When you se people talking about engraving backlighting that pulses or doesn’t respond correctly, it’s the light sensor. So yes in theory it should work. It won’t.
  8. Going to mirror what everyone else is saying, it sounds like the network is the issue, coupled probably with zigbee issues (which I do side with your original dealer. Zigbee runs on 2.4ghz band so that WiFi you added/changed could easily be overlapping if not configured properly to account for the Zigbee radios). On the flip side they could also be side stepping their poor installation by blaming your WiFi. Regardless I’d concentrate on getting a network export in there. Start with the wired network and topology starting from the ISP down to the WAPs. Then worry about WiFi channel setting/Zigbee channel setting and coverage. Too many WAPs is a bad thing if the power isn’t adjusted properly in respects to neighboring WAPs. Plus if there’s no coordinator involved between the WAPs the channel switching (especially if they’re all set to automatic) will be chaotic. One last thing. The safest way to deal with ISP’s that force their equipment in the mix and that can’t be set into a bridge mode, make sure to setup a DMZ on the first router in the mix, pointing to the second router in the mix (set by a static IP). Had to do this all the time with job sites that had Fios.
  9. Check out crimsonav.com. I have 4 of these articulating mounts, good quality, lightweight, and a fair price.
  10. The Neeo remotes use WiFi I thought? Or are they also affected by Zigbee coverage? Also totally agree about the lighting. They look slick but the plastics are cheap. The engravings also look nice but the backlighting is terrible. I leave the backlights on full brightness in rooms that tend to be dark (like my upstairs hallway). In rooms where it's always bright, I shut the backlights off. The auto adjusting always seems to settle on some greenish tint on all the Configurable Keypads (not the Keypad Dimmers). Doesn't matter what sensor bar I used, I gave up on them. Those new sensor bars didn't improve anything with the terrible light sensor they used IMO.
  11. If I would I could. Lost that access when CytexOne went under.
  12. From my experience, dealers never marked these locks up knowing that they're advertised at lower cost everywhere else and stuck explaining to the customer the cheaper one is incompatible. They sell it for what they paid C4 for with the piece of mind it's going to "just work" without buying the cheaper version and somehow finding the correct Zigbee card. So you are right in saying the mark up is for the compatible Zigbee card (does C4 manufacturer, do they license manufacturing to Kwikset -- also a big part of the "why so much" convo), support & warranty overhead by Control4. The dealers not so much. They charge for the labor of dealing with the lock, that's all.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.