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About EverAction

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    Control4 End User

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  1. I still have my original VM when I was working for a dealer with a saved login. Cancel button ftw!
  2. Figured I’d pay this forward like always, I ended up figuring this out. A broken solenoid valve feeding my humidifier prompted me to revisit this. It’s amazing how bad the air quality got in my house because of the stopper valve. I had a C4-THERM lying around and replaced my legacy C4 thermostat with it. After replacing the valve I wanted to know what the relative humidity was in the house which the C4-THERM supplies. I lacked enough wires in the thermostat wire to hard wire the humidity control, so originally I thought about getting a Z2IO. But for some reason I completely ignored
  3. LOL after all the hassle trying to get the old school Fire TV working over IP I'll believe the reliability of this when I see it.
  4. Correct, or if you're integrated to an audio source have the button press trigger a chime out of an audio source. Some of the new smart doorbells come with their own plug in chime like the Ring Chime. I remember at one site we had a Doorbird customer that when the Doorbird was pressed, it would alert via a Zigbee chime. I can't remember the brand though.
  5. Depending on the gauge of the wire just you'll have to tone out the pair and splice in a 18-24DC transformer at the other end. There's no way to get it powered off of the Nutone bus.
  6. FYI, you have the right idea but the product isn’t up to the challenge. The light sensors in the V2 lighting are notorious for poor readings. When you se people talking about engraving backlighting that pulses or doesn’t respond correctly, it’s the light sensor. So yes in theory it should work. It won’t.
  7. Going to mirror what everyone else is saying, it sounds like the network is the issue, coupled probably with zigbee issues (which I do side with your original dealer. Zigbee runs on 2.4ghz band so that WiFi you added/changed could easily be overlapping if not configured properly to account for the Zigbee radios). On the flip side they could also be side stepping their poor installation by blaming your WiFi. Regardless I’d concentrate on getting a network export in there. Start with the wired network and topology starting from the ISP down to the WAPs. Then worry about WiFi channel setting
  8. Check out crimsonav.com. I have 4 of these articulating mounts, good quality, lightweight, and a fair price.
  9. The Neeo remotes use WiFi I thought? Or are they also affected by Zigbee coverage? Also totally agree about the lighting. They look slick but the plastics are cheap. The engravings also look nice but the backlighting is terrible. I leave the backlights on full brightness in rooms that tend to be dark (like my upstairs hallway). In rooms where it's always bright, I shut the backlights off. The auto adjusting always seems to settle on some greenish tint on all the Configurable Keypads (not the Keypad Dimmers). Doesn't matter what sensor bar I used, I gave up on them. Those new sensor bars d
  10. If I would I could. Lost that access when CytexOne went under.
  11. From my experience, dealers never marked these locks up knowing that they're advertised at lower cost everywhere else and stuck explaining to the customer the cheaper one is incompatible. They sell it for what they paid C4 for with the piece of mind it's going to "just work" without buying the cheaper version and somehow finding the correct Zigbee card. So you are right in saying the mark up is for the compatible Zigbee card (does C4 manufacturer, do they license manufacturing to Kwikset -- also a big part of the "why so much" convo), support & warranty overhead by Control4. The dealers no
  12. I don't have a Move myself, but the C4 driver uses a sort of UID gained by the Network Driver of all the available Sonos devices on the network. Each Sonos Driver you add you select one of the devices populated from the Network Driver. After power failure, the Control4 driver is able to resume control with the regular devices once they're back on the network. I see this being no different than with the Move. That being said, if you put the Move in Bluetooth mode you'll lose control. That's the one event I'd be worried about the driver not knowing how to react to and if it recovers properl
  13. You could try to find a newer generation Connect (made after 2015). Those are supported by S2. But good luck getting a seller to confirm that for you. Other option is to use an audio split for the digital output. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Tendak-Bi-Directional-Converter-Splitter/dp/B06XCTGZFT/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=optical+in+to+optical+and+coax+out&qid=1591726419&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVDFPRVlYV0U1WjFLJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzg4MjI1WUNDM1ZNV0REVUxPJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxNjM3MzEyUDFaSVdKRVkyU0NBJndpZGdldE5
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