Jump to content

brantlmcdonald

c4Forums Member
  • Content Count

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About brantlmcdonald

  • Rank
    Control4 End User

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. If you had an exact equal system as far as dimmers and switches, the RadioRa2 is going to be around 20%+/- more expensive. RadioRa2 uses Maestro controls. The biggest cost difference in addition to the controls is going to be the RadioRa2 repeater vs the Caseta hub, which is about $400 more. RadioRa2 Select allows you to use their occupancy sensors, HVAC controls, and engraved Pico remotes, and is available in satin finishes whereas Caseta is gloss finishes only. Also you can use wireless relays for lighting control; so you could have relays in junction boxes while only using Pico remotes at the wall. RadioRa2 adds the ability to also use GrafikEye and Grafik T dimmers, as well as SeeTouch keypads. It also has an expanded lineup of sensors. You can spend far more dollars moving into those controls. It adds support for their higher end shades. Caseta and RadioRa2 use different apps. Caseta offers IFTTT integration, RadioRa2 does not. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I would consider RadioRa2 or Select as well if looking at Lutron. More device and keypad options, and the nicer satin finishes too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I haven’t experienced any problems with control functionality of Legrand RF controls, but I would like to know what specific issues you’ve had? I’ve had some failures over the years but I’d say it’s not out of the ordinary considering how many I’ve installed. My Legrand reps have always replaced them without question though. Also in case OP didn’t see, if you scroll further down the page you’ll see the decora style Radiant switches that are much less expensive than Adorne. There is a Zigbee version coming soon; idk if it will be compatible with C4 though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I like these .... https://www.legrand.us/categories/smart-lighting/rf-lighting-controls.aspx Works with C4 via Legrand LC7001 hub. Aren’t you the estimator for an EC? Does your company buy a lot of P&S devices? If so you can likely get decent pricing through your distributor ..... I pay about 40% list for Radiant and 50% list for Adorne you see at the link above. You can’t do things with 3rd party devices as you can with C4 devices like double-tap commands, change the backlighting color, change dimmer ramp rate, etc. Also the Legrand scene controllers are not visible within Control4 and can’t be used to activate C4 created scenes. They also cannot be engraved. You can create lighting scenes within C4 that are activated through the app, C4 keypad, or their touchscreen controller, or you can create lighting scenes in the LC7001 hub to use with the Legrand scene controller. Those scenes can then be imported to Composer. You could always just use a C4 scene controller as well in conjunction with Legrand devices. Would need to use satin color finishes for C4 devices to match the Legrand colors. MSRP for a C4 120v configurable keypad is $250 btw. The Nuvo stuff I told you about at the other board also has C4 drivers, matching keypads in both switch aesthetics... NV-P10 for Radiant, NV-P20-AD for Adorne. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. I would be cautious about installing the equipment (drivers & transformers) inside the C4 enclosure and violating the listing and warranty. I do not know the specific listing of the C4 equipment, but I would verify before proceeding. Whatever you do make sure you are compliant with NEC 725 when mixing class I and class II circuits. I would not recommend a 50’ run at 12v, even with 14awg. At 1.5A you’d be dropping 3.5%. 24v would be ideal. Idk what your actual current draw is on the tape lighting; 1.5A is conservative. I always look for somewhere within the cabinets to mount drivers when doing an install like this. If nothing else, install a separate enclosure near the C4 enclosure for the drivers. Something like an Eaton “telephone” enclosure works nice. It’s a NEMA-1 enclosure with a hinged door and has an optional flush trim ring. You also don’t necessarily need three transformers; a single adequately sized transformer could power all three drivers, and the 0-10v dimming allows you to set different levels. You could also consider skipping the 0-10v entirely and just use 120v dimmable drivers connected to your existing dimming module or a C4 dimmer switch. 0-10v dimming isn’t something I look for in LED tape dimming. I would typically only use that when you have several fixtures in a large area that are all commonly off/on but require different lighting levels, or require precise dimming below 10%. Also it’s the standard in architectural grade and commercial LED fixtures. If you’re goal is to go below 10%, by all means go with 0-10v. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. To be clear to OP, that driver will require an external power source, 12/24v. You will need to connect the driver to a transformer controlled by 120v coming from a C4 switch or 8-channel relay. You will program the switch or relay to power on/off the driver, and the 0-10v connection will be for dimming control only. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. 0-10v is an analog dimming controller. It’s not designed to provide power to any device. An LED driver designed for 0-10v dimming would typically have 4 wires; black & white for 120v, and grey/purple for 0-10v dimming. You supply 120v to the driver, and the 0-10v lines are used to signal the dimming state to the driver, in simplest terms. The light engine is independent of the dimming capabilities of the driver. You would need an LED driver that meets the power specifications of your LED tape that also has 0-10v. Some drivers will dim to 0%, most will not, in which case you also need an 8-channel relay in your system to turn the drivers off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Is it possible to program a momentary contact switch connected to a DCIM4 to have a hold-to-dim capability like a C4 dimmer? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. current integrations..... https://orro.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/categories/360002677633-Integrations
  10. For smart switches that’s right. Mechanical C4 switches don’t list a HP rating (most brands do), only that it’s rated for 15A. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. It won’t be QMotion. That company was acquired by Legrand and is part of the building control systems division. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. AFAIK, you will have to install an intellitouch panel to integrate an intelliflo pump. If you had this panel, other integrations would include temp control (if you have a heated/cooled pool) and jandy valve control for water features, spa, etc... Edit to add....: you can still do on/off with a variable speed pump on a simple timer. Generally though I don’t think they’re ever really programmed to go off when set as a stand-alone without an automation panel. at least not those I deal with as an electrical contractor that does a lot of pool installs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. are you asking the difference between using a Pentair panel vs. C4 switch & relay?
  14. I see. just curious. someone else posted something here recently about connecting w/ a modbus device and there was a link to a modbus driver. I do know these touch panels work with a variety of different modbus software apps.... basically just an interface to link a button push to a relay somewhere. they're not too complicated.
  15. add a pentair pool panel for extensive pool function control.... or, if you only want on/off & scheduling, you can connect a wireless C4 switch to a N/O contactor and set it up that way. Just a definite purpose (probably 30A) 2-pole contactor w/ 120v coil.
×
×
  • Create New...