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brantlmcdonald

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  1. So do you use the standard decora style C4 switches or the square switches in South Africa ? That receptacle in your pic is Legrand Arteor I think? I was told by my Legrand rep they are going to release a C4 driver for the Netatmo Zigbee devices, which is available in the Arteor line, as well as Living Light and Bticino. They just released the Netatmo stuff in the US, and it’s replacing the RFLC line that had a C4 driver. The RFLC line worked flawlessly with C4.
  2. I replaced all of my wall switches with adorne... its not very noticeable how far off the wall they are due to the beveled edge of the wall plates; especially with the black backing. I also have the glass mirror white wallplates, and its probably even less noticeable with those vs. the matte finish plates. Im curious to see just how well received the new contemporary devices are. They definitely needed an update, and I'm sure part of the challenge was making buttons that were compatible with existing installations.
  3. Does that mean a Contemporary wallplate opening is too small for a standard decora switch or receptacle?
  4. If the driver is capable of 0% dimming, no additional relay is needed. If the driver is not capable of 0% dimming, then yes, you need a C4 relay/switch to toggle off/on.
  5. Apple is saying you will need a wired DAC to listen to hi-res lossless, as the built-in DAC of the iPhone/iPad doesn’t support it. can’t find any clear answers as to whether “cd quality” lossless is available over AirPlay.
  6. The circuit breakers won’t cause an issue with your lighting controls; that sounds like a power quality issue. what is the brand of circuit breaker? The first thing to do is find out why it’s tripping; could be an arc fault, could be a ground fault, could be an overload. Some breakers have an indicating light, some have specific ways of re-setting to determine what caused the trip. Get back to me with the type, preferably a pic, and I’ll try to help you. My first thought in reaction to what you describe is that there’s likely an issue with the neutral wire from your incoming service, or possibly some induced current on the grounding system. how many breakers are tripping? And what are the breaker space numbers in your panel?
  7. I hope someone else will reply if I’m wrong, but I believe because the pico is not a load device, it will not be exposed to C4. Pico scene programming will have to be done within the lutron software.
  8. It wouldn’t talk to the t-stat. In the way I’ve installed them, the t-stat remains on a constant temperature, I just used the switch connected to a relay to switch the floor and towel bar together via scheduled off/on times. That way the floor and towel bar isn’t on all the time.
  9. That switch by code is supposed to be installed in a way the pool remains in sight. I wouldn’t connect a pool cover to any remote controlling system. It’s not a risk worth taking.
  10. That’s a nice feature. I believe that is a function of the new Big Sur OS and not specifically M1 MacBooks.
  11. That support frame is made to sit on top of a wall; it looks like in your installation the support frame recesses into the box. you will likely need to fabricate spacers to allow you to tighten the frame down but also have it protrude outside the box enough to snap the cover on.
  12. Tapatalk error indicates this site is blocking it. Can’t login or view any forums.
  13. It’s ok for you to be wrong . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. The voltage is behind a non metallic face like every other switch in a house; not sure why a disposal switch is any more reason for concern than a light switch. Every receptacle you’re plugging devices into has voltage as well. And having one hand in the sink while the disposal is running is never a good idea. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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