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Don Cohen

c4Forums Member
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    159
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About Don Cohen

  • Rank
    Control4 End User

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  • Website URL
    www.dlcphoto.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    NC
  • Interests
    Nature and Wildlife Photography, Technology of all types, Volleyball, and most recently Control4

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  1. Yes, I've found this to be quite helpful in making the Voice Commands with Alexa much easier to remember and use. Have you discovered a way to do this with Google Assistant? Last time I looked, it wasn't possible. I have programmed a Google Assistant Voice Scene in Control4 that will open my garage door, unlock the door to my house, and turn on selected lights. When I'm driving home, I'm using Android Auto in my car, and so can activate this by Voice when I'm getting near home. It works awesome, but the downside is I have to use the phrase "Turn On..." to initiate the action, which is not intuitive, rather than "Open" or something along those lines.
  2. From an end-user point of view, I have no problem with Intercom Anywhere being a separate app. My dissatisfaction is how it performs its function as a separate app (at least on my Android Oreo Samsung Note 8, can't speak to other phones or OS's). If someone rings the bell, I get the ring on my phone. I then have to get it out, unlock it, swipe down to see the notification, tap the notification, wait for the app to open, and then tap the answer icon. Takes *way* too long to do. It should come in as a phone call, where basically a single tap or swipe would answer the call. Now I have no idea of the technical challenges, or possibly prohibitions, to make this happen, but this would be so much better.
  3. True, although in my particular situation, the Z2IO is in a somewhat better place than the Thermostat itself (for at least certain times of day). But in general your point is certainly appropriate.
  4. I can see what you're saying, although I would prefer to have the option, with the onus on me to avoid undesired consequences. But regardless, it is what it is, and appreciate your replies.
  5. Thanks. That's what it was looking like. Yeah, I'm aware of the Wired sensor, but not worth the hassle in this particular situation. Seems a shame as you'd think there would be way for the Thermostat to simply tap into another temperature reading for this purpose. Oh well.
  6. One more bump before I give up on this. If it isn't possible to do what I'm talking about, let me know and I'll move on. Thanks.
  7. The lack of reply makes me wonder if it's possible to use the Z2IO temperature reading to control the Thermostat, but thought I'd just bump it and get a few more eyes on this. Thanks.
  8. I have an Aprilaire Control4 Thermostat in my Theater Room (named "Theater Thermostat" in Composer Pro). It is next to a window with a blackout shade, so the greenhouse effect there can make the temperature higher than elsewhere in the room, and make it difficult to control. I also have a Z2IO in the room (named C4-Z2IO in Composer Pro), where the Projector is mounted, to provide IR control of the Projector. Knowing it has a Temperature Sensor, I added a Control4 Virtual Temperature Display Driver (named "Temperature-Projector" in Composer Pro), and connected it to the Temperature output from the Z2IO. So I can now see what the temperature is at the Projector in the T3, Android App, etc. What I would like to do is have the Thermostat utilize the temperature reading from the Z2IO for regulating the system, *rather* than the Thermostat's Built-in Sensor. So I connected the Thermostat's Temperature Control Input to the Z2IO's Temperature Internal Output, thinking this would accomplish what I want. I've attached a screen capture showing this. But it doesn't seem to actually be working. The Thermostat still displays the reading of the Built-in sensor, and seems to be basing its operation on this value, rather than that from the Z2IO. What do I need to do differently, or is this not possible to do in the first place? Thanks.
  9. So I changed the ethernet connector at the Front Door. Results: the bottom line is I think I was expecting too much of the DS2-Mini, thinking it should provide Night Mode quality comparable to the Luma Cameras. It doesn't. But I have learned a few things about how it does operate. The first 2 captures are from my phone, both with the Porch Light Off, and quite dark out there. The first one with no one out there, and the second with me standing out there. Huge difference here, as ILoveC4 suggested, that with nothing close to the DS2, it's not doing much. I do find it interesting that when I step out there, the *entire* scene lights up dramatically, not just my form. If only I could get that picture quality without my being out there, I'd be quite satisfied. I also checked the Switch's Power output, and Night Mode now showed it putting out 84mA and 4.5W (compared to 48mA and 2.5W during the day). So power seems to be delivered appropriately. I included a screen capture here as well to document this. The last screen capture is from the Luma NVR Interface on my PC. For whatever reason (whichever stream each device uses, which I haven't yet defined), the DS2 does look a fair amount better there, than with my Phone's App, or on the T3, but it is still nowhere near as good as the Luma IP cameras). It does look a little better than before I changed the connector, but not a big change. I think I'm done chasing this. Would a Cable replacement make a difference? Possibly, but I'm inclined to think it doubtful. Appreciate all the input and suggestions I received here. Perhaps this will be of help to someone else with similar observations.
  10. Well, I was never out there in the evening when the light changed, so really have no idea if it clicked or not. If this doesn't fix it, I think I'll have to get the dealer out to just run a new cable.
  11. Thanks. My run is perhaps 50 feet, so I should be okay, at least in theory! I just replaced the connector at the Front Door (it's a really tight space, and the previous cable installation was somewhat kinked). It's daytime, so I can't be sure, but I just covered the whole faceplate with my hand, and after about 10 seconds, I heard that same click, and the display seemed to switch modes. So I'm cautiously optimistic that this may have fixed it. I am still getting a recurring "Poor Connection" error with the Intercom Anywhere App, which makes me a bit nervous. Guess I'll find out tonight. You could be right - time will tell...
  12. OK, things have gotten interesting. I removed the DS2 from the Front Door, and plugged it into the same Port # 5, which the other cable was using. With lights on, everything looked fine. I then turned the lights off, and the image was initially quite dark, but after a few seconds I heard a 'click' from the DS2, and the image brightened dramatically. The Photo is in my theater room, with virtually no light in the room. This is a *huge* improvement! I've also posted a Screen Capture showing the POE readings for the Switch once the DS2 went into Night Mode. Output Voltage remained the same as 53.8, while the Output Current went from 48 to 55 mA, and the Output Watts went from 2.5 to 2.9. So clearly there is nothing wrong with the DS2, and its low light capability is more than acceptable. So it could be the Cable, or its Connectors, or perhaps the length being too long to transmit the needed power. I guess I can replace the connectors first, and see what happens. Adding a POE injector might also be needed to fully resolve the source of the problem, if new connectors doesn't solve it. The last option would be to re-run a new cable, but it may come to that. Any additional ideas welcome, but I'm thrilled to finally be making some progress.
  13. Thanks for the detailed reply. Good point about having those tools available for general purposes. I'm in a somewhat unique position. I actually work for the dealer, starting earlier this year (post retirement, second career). I'm in a somewhat distant location from the dealer showroom, so my home was set up with Control4 home automation, so I can demo to potential customers in my area. They did the initial setup, when I knew essentially nothing about this stuff, but because I'm tech-oriented to begin with, have been trying to manage, tweak and troubleshoot on my own since then. I am wanting to avoid using their resources for me, which would be pulling them away from regular customers, so I'm trying to figure out as much as I can on my own. It's also a good learning experience. They are certainly available to help if I call on them, and it may come to that. But I'd rather handle as much as I can on my own, and genuinely appreciate all the help that has provided in this forum. To the matter at hand, possibly stupid question: the DS2 needs 12.95W, per their Data Sheet. The Switch indicates that it's putting out 2.5W. I don't know if there are upticks in the draw needed, or if this would suggest that the DS2 isn't getting what it needs.
  14. Yet another interesting post. Did some quick reading, POE+ delivers more power than POE. I logged into my Switch, and here's what it shows. The DS2 is plugged into Port 5. I haven't yet learned what "Class" indicates, but it is Class 0 vs Class 4 for 2 other devices drawing power. Does this give any clues? Would an external POE Injector (Ubiquiti or other) still be needed/useful for testing, based on this data? Edited to Add: The Data sheet for the DS2-Mini shows: PoE 802.3af (Class 0 - 12.95W) or 12VDC
  15. I haven't actually done this before (I set it up in Composer Pro), but you're talking about the "SendEmail" field? I would guess it would be the same as the "From" email address in the SMTP setup in the Services...Email...SMTP... page. I imagine you've tried that, and if it doesn't work, I'm not sure what to try next. If you have Composer HE (you can buy it if you don't, and it includes 1 year of 4Sight), I would guess that this would be part of the available programming in that software. MIght be another option if the DS2 interface won't work.
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