Jump to content

Don Cohen

c4Forums Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Don Cohen last won the day on August 30

Don Cohen had the most liked content!

About Don Cohen

  • Rank
    Control4 Guru

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Interests
    Nature and Wildlife Photography, Technology of all types, Volleyball, and most recently Control4

Recent Profile Visitors

454 profile views
  1. Update: I tried to re-link again, and for whatever reason, this time it worked. I had given it a half hour or so before posting, but whatever glitch there was went away. I'm good to go now.
  2. Thanks for the quick reply - I had already done this, and I included the Error Message I received: "We were unable to link Control4 at this time.Please try again later."
  3. Out of nowhere, I woke up this morning to find that every voice command to Alexa results in "x-device is not responding." Everything was fine yesterday. No other network or connectivity problems present. 4Sight is active, and confirmed to be active when I log into 'customer.control4.com'. Other non-Control4 voice commands to Alexa seem to be working fine (what time is it and so forth). Control4 works fine via SR260, Android App, etc. I rebooted both devices - no change. I re-discovered devices - no change. I disabled the Control4 Skill within the Alexa App, and tried to re-
  4. Here's an update: I bought and installed the Bond Bridge, and it was quite easy to pair it with my Motorized Curtains. Controlling it from the Bridge seems so far to be 100% reliable. I then added it to my Control4 Project, and once again, control so far is perfectly reliable. So it seems, if this behavior keeps up, that the Remote was the source of the problem, as several of you suggested, and as I had hoped. Programming wise, I was able to start the curtain opening, add a delay of any number of seconds, and then a stop command, to control where I want the curtain to stop
  5. Appreciate the last 2 replies. Garage Doors are controlled by Z2IO and direct relays. No baby monitors, alarms. The Bond Bridge will be delivered Sunday, so I guess I'll know shortly how this will work out. I can still 'go dark' to further trouble-shoot, but if the Bridge resolves the problem, it won't be necessary. Thanks - will update the thread when I know more.
  6. Thanks for the reply and info. I'll go ahead with the Bond Bridge, and hope for the best. Much appreciated.
  7. I appreciate the reply. Hopefully you're right. I'll likely go for the Bond Bridge and see what happens. Thanks.
  8. Thanks for the reply. The EA1 that serves the Zigbee mesh is in another room, so definitely not close. There is an EA3 in the Theater Room, but as I indicated, the server is not on this device. I've only had this set up for about a week, and haven't noticed any issues as far as proximity to the motor (which is usually around 15 feet away). The basic functions for open and close, for 2.35:1 and 16:9, work perfectly. It's just the intermittent ones that are sometimes flaky since I have to Stop along the way. I understand what you're saying about getting things working right bef
  9. I recently installed a Motorized Curtain Track, to mask the sides of my scope screen when watching content narrower than 2.35:1 aspect ratio. This YouTube Video shows it in action. There is a hard stop inserted into the track, to limit the excursion to the narrowest (16:9) Aspect Ratio. But sometimes I'll watch 1.85:1, or 2.00:1, or 2.20:1, and need the Curtain stopped in an 'in-between' position between fully open and fully closed. It comes with an RF Remote, which has 3 buttons on it: Open, Close, Stop. This works fine for the most part, except sometimes when I hit Stop for thos
  10. Not exactly sure what you mean, but having a dedicated or programmable button on the steering wheel for this type of function would certainly be useful. Another thought would be somehow adding functionality to the hard button on the rear view mirror that opens the garage door. I know a lot of people don't care for voice commands (in the house, or in the car for that matter), but over time I've come to use it more than I thought I would. Not for everything, but for certain things it's so much easier and more efficient than using a phone or touchscreen.
  11. I'm in the Android World, and use Android Auto. I have set up Google Voice commands to do just this. The wording is a bit awkward, but it works. I just have to tap the button on my steering wheel to activate the Google Assistant and then: "Turn on Garage Number one" opens my garage door (my wife's is 'Number two'), and opens the doorlock from the garage to the house (which in turn is programmed to turn on selected lights when it's opened). My Security System isn't integrated yet, but if it were, I could also deactivate the alarm. I would guess the same would be possible with iPhone an
  12. Just in case anyone runs into this, you do have to remove the 3 screws on each side in order to slide the top/sides of the case backwards to get access to the drives and electronics. They really should update the PDF, or at least indicate you might have one case or the other, and show both. I don't know which is the 'newer' case design, or if both are used.
  13. I have had increasing episodes of hearing a 'chirp' from this NVR, followed by a reboot of the NVR about 60 seconds later. Talking with Luma support indicates a failing HD is the most likely cause, and they have sent me a new HD to replace the old one. The problem is the case on my unit is different from the case shown in their Manual PDF. Their instructions show removal of 2 screws on the back, and then sliding the top forward. On mine, the top doesn't have the 'indent' shown in their pictures, and the top and sides are one integrated piece of metal. It seems that I would have to rem
  14. For what it's worth, that had been my approach as far as High Lamp only for HDR (and 3D) for the past several years, for exactly this reason. But edit: *not* long after getting the NX7, I've changed it. I have a large screen (160" diagonal 2.35:1), and so generally have the iris wide open, for both Low and High Lamp. What I decided is to keep it in High Lamp, even for non-HDR content, and then close down the Iris to the same light output as I was getting in Low Lamp. This increases the contrast significantly, for a better picture overall. And if I then need to replace the bulb sooner than
  • Create New...