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About robbie3130

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    Control4 End User

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  1. If both of my suggestions weren't done you would still be able to see the camera.
  2. Connections > Network - make sure the IP is listed there as well as in the driver Verify the Camera's Authentication Method: Log into the camera's user interface, and go to Configuration > Security. 2. Verify both RSTP and WEB Authentication are set to digest/basic, and click Save.
  3. Believe you can program off of this driver which is free https://drivers.control4.com/solr/drivers/browse?q=weather+-free
  4. Something like that, I believe they are both owned by Snap. There should be plenty of documentation available on how to configure them for use with C4. It sounds like he just pointed it to the substream of the camera, which has a max resolution of 640x480.. could even be set to less by default. There is a setting on the camera to enable the third stream..sort of buried somewhere in advanced or something, and then you have to go back to the video settings and select the third stream and config it for 720p. Believe max FPS is something like 15. Finally point the driver to the third st
  5. Probably doesn’t have the third stream enabled on the camera or selected in the driver. Should be 720p I believe.
  6. Anyone install this yet? I purchased the driver (it’s great by the way) however, the icon for it is just blank? Experiencing this on a 8” T4 as well as in the mobile app on iPhone. Small device icon shows correctly in Composer.
  7. I have the same smoke detector situation myself. There really isn’t a perfect solution The best I’ve found and haven’t set it up myself, is there is a legacy device that listens to particular alarm signal patterns and triggers the Qolsys. One thing I did note was it needs to be placed near an alarm that doesn’t have the announcement feature. I believe some do and some don’t in my setup, been a while since I played with it and ended up just sticking in a few extra DSC PowerG detectors. Can confirm it connects locally over wifi, be sure the Qolsys has the latest firmware so it plays
  8. Agreed. Also would be helpful to check what the local IP is on the device after it looses connectivity. Sounds like possibly the DHCP server is borked (given the randomness of devices still having connectivity). I would tend to rule out the WAN, as he bypassed the router and still hit some sort of device registration page (because of the fresh mac).
  9. If you're getting packet loss across the lan to the router IP I can't see how it would be a DNS issue.
  10. It should popup a URL to go to and then authenticate via Amazon. Maybe try a different device?
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