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YES! Happening to me too. ea3/3.2.1. Exactly the same. When it does work, it plays 1 song then stops.

Yes I seem to have some clients having this issue as well.

You should use the IR to control the Apple TV / Display TV.
The IP driver for Apple TVs kinda sucks. Stick with IR on that one.
And unless your TV is brand new and a higher end model it wont have IP control. So you may or may not need to IR your TV depending on what model you have.

Tp link kasa

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

If you pay attention, do the labs with a serious effort, you should be able to pass the exam 'automagically'

Reading between the lines and because the OP said new problems appeared to coincide with his Internet changes I suspect he is using ISP network equipment. 
I still find it amazing the number of times we fix this very issue, usually along the lines of: homeowner A uses ISP networking equipment in a Control4 system with static IP addresses in use, sells home to homeowner B who promptly switches ISPs to an ISP with a different Class C addressing scheme and voila Control4 stops working. Or simply homeowner A changes ISP and wonders why things stop working.
The commonality of bad practices here is the use of ISP networking equipment in conjunction with fixed / static IP addresses. While fixed / static IP addresses are good practice for certain equipment and required for some equipment, it's a bad idea to do so while using ISP networking gear instead of a dedicated Control4 network setup.

Look at status.control4.com. There were problems today.

I ended going with the Dam-it flood sensors. I had Epic System Tech F/K/A Strongman Security install three of them one in the electric closet one in the boiler room and one in the bathroom in the basement. They integrated into the Control 4, and so far they have been working great. The only problem with them is they are battery operated with two AA batteries, so you have to check on them to make sure the battery is not dead. Another thing is once the sensor goes off, you have to pull the battery to stop the flood sensor light from blinking as that will drain the battery. I'm going the install the Duracell optima batteries in the sensors to get longer battery life. Please see the Dam-it flood sensor link below and Epic Systems Tech.
http://www.candselectronics.com/products/zrg76barrfg5i293jg2riyk69cfbgb
https://epicsystems.tech/
 

I don't have the exact lines of programming from composer but here is a few things that hopefully help :
1) Definitely use room control driver. Will make your life so much easier. 
2) For the LED's, you can program each source per the LED. When Audio Selection changes, If Pandora/IheartRadio/Whatever is selected, Then Set LED Current on keypad button you want.
3) For Cycling through sources, with room control driver It has either 4 or 5 sources you can choose in the driver properties and then connect the Audio Source Button to the room control driver Binding. It will cycle through the sources you have selected in the driver as you press the button.
Room Control Driver seems like your best friend in this project. It will save you countless hours of programming .

Just checked, and the problem now seems to be resolved. Mine is linked again.

p>This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks.</p>
 
<title>Access denied | api.ecobee.com used Cloudflare to restrict access</title>
 

sure, happy to remote in and look - message me

hi there , i am also looking for programmer. i have had my system in stalled for over 12 months and my 'official Control 4 ' installer is just not able to program some really basic things like putting ;lights on and off at certain times of day. i think these should be simple to do. but i have finally given up trying to work with this man and now looking for someone who can jump in and set this system up as it should be . HELP!
i am based in Oviedo near Orlando if that helps, but think it can be done remotely
 

There are loads of great programmers on here but I would be happy to take a look. 
Send me a PM if you are interested...

There are loads of great programmers on here but I would be happy to take a look. 
Send me a PM if you are interested...

There are loads of great programmers on here but I would be happy to take a look. 
Send me a PM if you are interested...

I use it as a countdown timer for any situation i leave my home not from my work vehicle which has my Card access remote to shut down the house.
so if my wife or i leave the house. I simply select a time. when the time expires c4 shuts the garage door arms the security turns off all AV, lights. This way if we are loading from the garage or doing a few things before i leave i can take out my phone set a time and forget it as we drive off in to the sunset...
 
 

Long time follower of this forum. I have been installing residential and commercial low voltage since 2006. Been programing Control4 since 2012. My business partner and I finally left one of the large Control4 dealers in the area last year because there was not enough emphasis on personal touches to the system and quality/documentation and started our own company. Would love to help anyone out with anything from Q&A, system design, programing (including tutorials for HE), as well as troubleshooting. Please direct message for details. Thank you

EDIT: put CA-1 on it's own separate zigbee mesh (best practice is to always have full zigbee coverage by adding more zigbee servers(Too many hops can eventually slow down a mesh)) 
 
 

Dealer needs to update

And yes. Dealer should add sensor drivers.

Happy to help!

As Mitch said, Ecobee is my recommendation. 
Great free drivers and their thermostats are great.

Yes anytime you want to program a remote function or button, program from the room so that if you have multiple remotes in that room you don't need to program each individually. 

You need to add a door and bind the lock to a door

The EA-3 would likely work well for you.
A few things that would push me to EA-5 in this case:
If you were going to do multiple audio zones, the EA-3 only has 2 stereo/digital audio streaming outputs, so in your 4 zone audio case, those 4 zones couldn't all be listening to different things at one time.  The EA-5 provides 4 stereo/digital audio outputs, along with the HDMI ('fifth') audio output. If you are mounting in a rack, the EA-5 is full rack width, so cleaner to mount. If you were also going to use the contacts/relays on the EA-5 for something like garage door control, etc. Edited to add: as mentioned above, the touchscreens/doorstation also would push me more towards EA-5.
RyanE

Awesome project!!