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PorterTX

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About PorterTX

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    Control4 End User

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  1. As for the shades it sounds like your C4 controller is looking for a specific IP address. You will probably want to assign a static IP address for your shades. I had a somewhat similar incident happen and once I locked in the IP address I have been good.
  2. I believe the HC800 is capped at 16/44.1 on the resolution. As for the EA-5 or EA-3 just note if you want to achieve full 24/192 you are restricted to a maximum of 2 streams otherwise the resolution drops just slightly (24/96 & 24/48) the more you add. It is of course arguable if one might notice that difference and there are a number of other factors that can contribute (source & equipment).
  3. agree with @LollerAgent on the free driver. Worst case you try that one and then you have a back up option if you need more features. I have a fairly simple setup with 2 exterior shades to create a screened in porch that operate jointly but also independently if needed so I only really needed the ability to go up & down.
  4. Correct on how the MyLink works but as stated you will need a Somfy remote as well to get it started. I believe the driver is available on the Somfy website but I am guessing in Pro as well? In HE mine says 'Somfy myLink Interface v2.1" for RTS blinds. https://www.somfysystems.com/en-us/products/smart-home-controls/smart-home/automation-systems/control4
  5. +1 on using MyLink with C4 as well. I agree with the others that by itself it can have some frustrations but with my experience using it with my exterior shades and C4 it works. I did have to assign a static IP address for MyLink after an initial hiccup but it has been fine since then. If you do a search on the web you can usually find a much better price for the MyLink unit as well as the Somfy remote. Just have those ready when the install of the blinds is being done.
  6. That is what I was thinking/hoping. I will try troubleshooting the Aavara for now and see what happens but thanks again for your help.
  7. Great thanks again! The Aavara (Blu-ray) is very rarely used but I will try unplugging all it's connections to give it a shot. I did notice something strange in the Fing app but please forgive my ignorance if this can be ignored. When I scanned the network the HC250 IP address shows up (I verified it on the C4 GUI screen under network settings) but in the Fing App under "Network details" it has information about a totally separate AppleTV upstairs for our kids (MAC Vendor - Apple, Operating System - IOS, Brand/Model Info Apple TV 3rd Gen) but also shows NetBIOs Domain as "Control4Home" (I don't know what that means). Then the Fing App identifies the IP address assigned to that Apple TV in the kid's room (verified under Apple's network setting) but now under "Network Details' it shows information about the HC250 (MAC Vendor Control4 but Operating System - Apple TV 8.43 but that's not correct). I am not sure if the simple answer is to ignore all of the Fing app's "Network Details" or if that really is pointing to a problem? Maybe IP addresses were reassigned at one point in the past and old network information is still in app? I think I recall seeing something on the Fing app saying they don't get MAC information anymore. Admittedly I am guessing and at my technological limit for now but I thought it was interesting.
  8. Thanks for the suggestions and insight @Cyknight! Yes unfortunately this happens 100% of the time if I have the TV on for more than about 15 - 20 min. I do have a DLink 5 port Gigabit switch behind the TV as well that feeds the TV, HC250, AppleTV, and an Aavara HDMI over IP receiver (for a shared Sony Blu-ray player). I used the Fing app and identified most everything has its own IP address (having trouble identifying the Aavara). The TV really doesn't really need to be connected anymore since I installed an AppleTV so I might try removing that just in case. HDMI controls are all turned off on the Samsung, ARC input #4 is not being used and HC250 is in a HideIt mount off to the far side so airflow should be ok. I just recently purchased Composer HE so I am still learning my way around. That said, I am not sure how to tell in Composer if there is a connection between the HDMI cable that is actually connected from the HC250 to the TV. This may be what you are asking but I noticed when I click on the HC250 there isn't a properties page shown on the right side (just says "there are no properties for the selected item" which is completely different than when I click on my EA5. Maybe this is nothing or is this because the EA5 is the main controller?
  9. I have an issue with my HC250 behind the TV in my master bedroom that I am hoping somebody might have seen before or can shed some light on. The hardwired HC250 consistently loses its Link connection after about 15-20 minutes of the TV being on (the Link LED light turns off). When I am done watching TV I select room off on my SR250 but must use the Samsung’s TV remote to turn the TV off since it uses IR. However, at some point a few hours later the link is mysteriously restored and it goes back to “normal”. It is of course frustrating as it means any IR capability is gone during that time as the HC250 is unresponsive. Fortunately, the Apple TV that is local behind the TV is using IP control (still on TV0S 12.X) so I can at least control what I am watching and sound goes back to a Control4 Audio Matrix in a rack with speakers in the room so I can also still control volume. I just can’t turn the TV off normally through my SR250 or use the GUI for any period longer than 15 mins or so as I would get stuck when the unit drops off. My dealer initially did a factory reset and it took forever for the until to reestablish the link but eventually it did but the problem is still there. I am not sure if the unit is just dying and I need to live with it until I replace it with an EA1 or if there is something else that I or my dealer may not be thinking of? I am on OS 2.10.6 with an EA5 as my main controller in a rack so this is just impacting the local controller in the bedroom and the only issue that I have with all my equipment. Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
  10. sorry about that, I could see it on the reply thread but I have had other issues when trying to post things here. Let me try this again as an attached png file.
  11. I just recently finally got Composer and was playing around with the settings to make some similar changes. My original dealer set this up and so it has been easy for me to follow along and make small tweaks but I am still not educated enough as of yet to explain "why" some of this was programmed this way as I am sure it could be done other ways. That said, here is what my script looks like if it helps.
  12. I have an Oppo 203 as well and have been wanting to look into doing what you did with my movie collection (especially UHD if possible). What hardware and software combination did you use to rip your movies?
  13. No problem. Yes it looks like you have an EA-3 controller. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. He is wanting to know the specific model of the controller or "brains" of your Control4 system. There should be a Control4 "black box" that is controlling all of your equipment somewhere in the house. Either in a central location like an AV closet or maybe behind your TV. You may have the older model controllers like an HC250, HC800 or a new one like an EA-1, EA-3 etc. He needs to know this in order to determine a solution on how to fix the issue. You can go to Control4's website under their product catalog section to see what they look like.
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