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Jakelay

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About Jakelay

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    Control4 End User

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  1. Thanks everyone! Was able to meet with the programmer and get a lot done re: updating some keypad configurations/programming and an LED strategy. Appreciate all of the tips and suggestions!
  2. Installer started using IR, I really wanted to avoid that so took @lippavisual‘s advice and asked about rs232. Ended up going that route. Seems to be working but I’ll keep an eye on it. Thanks for all or of the suggestions and advice. Left the other TVs on IP control since we don’t seem to be having issues with those. Just weird that this one would work for a while and then stop. Appreciate the help - thanks so much!
  3. Great suggestions thanks! I specifically didn’t want to do the engraving yet as I don’t know exactly how I’m going to configure things yet so I was going to use a p touch for a few weeks. I’ve only had a few programmed for a day and already need to change things - best laid plans and all😊
  4. Hi everyone. I’ve searched through some threads with a lot of great info but was looking for some add’l help setting up my switches and keypads. We have almost everything installed but barely programmed yet. I haven’t gotten to backlighting yet as I want to get things set up and work with the setup before ordering engraving so most of these questions are about the LEDs for now. Will post again when I’m ready for engraving/backlighting. Hoping folks that program and use these can offer their experience. Trying to decide on a few things: 1. What do most people do with the ‘normal’ switch LEDs. I believe the default is the blue LED showing at the top of the switch when the light is on and the bottom of the switch when the light is off. I don’t have any issues with this default setting but do have a few multi gang faceplates where, depending on other suggestions, this might not look as good next to whatever you all suggest for keypad LED colors. 2. What are folks doing with three way light status LEDs? We have a few keypads (some KP dimmers and some Configurable KPs) where the programming connects to a highly utilized light at the top of our stairs. It would nice to have an LED (at least until we do engraving and backlighting) to show us where the switch is located when the room is dark but also show if the light is on at all of the other keypads. Right now, the blue LED on that button lights up on all keypads when the light is on but when the light is off, there is no LED so it’s hard to find the switch in the dark. And we don’t know if the light is on or off at any of the other keypad locations. It would also be nice to see if that light is on when looking at one of the keypads from across the room or in a different room so we can turn it off if not needed. 3. Right now, I’m just setting up single button press keypad commands to do a few automated things in a room. Mostly, turning on lights, select a source, dim a different set of lights, turn on Tv, fan, etc. Also using a single press on another button to turn on audio to a specific SXM channel (ie the Beatles). We may go multiple presses at some point for add’l channels, playlists, etc but pretty simple to start. My installer just programmed a few of these remotely and I’m trying to figure out how people are setting the LEDs to show status (what colors you like, how you designate if that command is active, changed, etc) and then what people do to turn these off. For example, maybe we want a keypad press to select an SXM channel but then want to leave the lights on but turn off SXM without having to find the remote. Does making a second press of that button turn off the programming (but leave on the lights) make sense or is there a better way to do this? Right now, the only way to turn off the audio is to hit the room off button (including lights - not what we want) or find the remote and use that. 4. Do you use standardized LED status lights to help with these things? What colors do you prefer/find useful? Recommendations for night time brightness settings?(mainly in bedroom - want the LEDs bright in the hallways and other rooms). 5. Some keypads will operate garage doors, locks, etc when we leave the house. LED selections that people use to verify everything is in the right ‘programming’ mode so we don’t have to check the automation manually? I’m thinking a 4 column list for my installer might help: switch/keypad location, LED color/instruction based on lighting, LED color/instruction based on programming, special instructions Any other thoughts, suggestions recommendations, experience is appreciated! ) @eggzlot - I know what you’re going to say about the backlighting for multiple keypads in the same gang😉 Thanks everyone! Edit: one other dumb question! Do most people use the same keypad button as a toggle on/off for lights or do folks use, for example, the top keypad button for on and a bottom keypad button for off?
  5. Yeah, wish the dealer would have said ‘we’re not comfortable with the Opus’. They acted like it was no big deal so I trusted them. Plus, the Opus has been out for quite a while. They certainly told me they weren’t comfortable with J+P so I looked for an alternative. I’ll discuss the rs232 option with my dealer as well. Right now, just trying to get them on the schedule to complete a lot of the work and will have them try these suggestions when they are onsite I guess. Thanks again!
  6. TV remote works fine, input select on the TV remote works fine and video sources come through. We always get the audio either way. We have an Atlona Opus 6x8 which, interestingly, has its own audio matrix which is causing a few other issues. I reset that as well after I reset the TV and also reset the controller since we were having a similar issue on another Samsung now (no power, sources weren’t selecting). That seemed to fix things temporarily but resetting things is getting really old really quickly. I think they are still having issues getting the Atlona set up correctly. They have experience with the Pro UHD model but this is their first Opus and it seems to be giving them problems - which is giving me problems. . . I’ve spoken with the folks at Atlona and they were very helpful so I may have to call them myself soon. The video matrix might be adding to the source selection issue but if the IP control is to working at all on the TV, my guess is that is the primary issue since they did not use the Ethernet pass through on the balun luckily - easier to trouble shoot these things.
  7. Good call! I will have them check those ideas. A bit above my pay grade right now (although, I’m committed to getting up to speed on this stuff as it looks like it is going to be necessary - was hoping for a bullet proof setup and operation but definitely not the case right now. Was spoiled with a component video and distributed audio based Crestron system that never needed any intervention so the network heavy, HDMI integration going fritzy isn’t the best thing for marital bliss. . . I get that this may be a TV or wire issue but we’re having a few random issues with our video matrix, audio, etc. Feels like I’m doing a lot of troubleshooting - at least more than I had hoped. Hoping we can get things working at a baseline to start at least - we haven’t even gotten to any of the cool stuff I want to get set up because of these issues on the needs. Don't mean to vent - appreciate the suggestions and will forward those to my dealer. Thanks again!
  8. Already checked CEC and made sure it was off the first time this happened - thanks! Last time this happened I unplugged the Tv and it seemed to reset the handshake. This time, I checked the manual to see if there was anything in there that might be helpful and saw that a 3 second hold of the power button seemed to be a ‘soft’ reset of sorts. So I tried that and it looks like it’s working again but I’m sure this will keep happening. No new firmware updates available either. Just odd that we bought 5 2020 Sammies and this is the only one with an issue. Even an existing 2019 model works fine?? I really wanted to avoid IR if anyone had experienced this and corrected it but it’s only a few commands so as long as they can cover the IR bud so we don’t see the flash, I think that will be the path of least resistance at this point. One challenge is that the 2020 model has the push button for the power/control/reset on the bottom ‘box’ of the TV and a bud cover may render that button unavailable but hopefully I won’t need to use it at that point. Open to any other suggestions. Thanks again!
  9. Well, still having the issue with just one of the 5 new Samsungs. Dealer re-paired, tried static IP - didn’t work, then paired againvia sddp. Worked for a few days and now TV isn’t responding to C4 commands. We have to use the TV remote to turn off/on. Any additional ideas before switching to IR? I’m frustrated this is the only TV that isn’t working correctly. No way to use the sleep timer we set up, etc. Wife is not happy. Thanks again!
  10. FYI - being told the keypad dimmers arrived yesterday so I’m on the schedule for Monday. Just letting folks know if they are waiting on orders. Have no idea about allotments, etc. just being told the back ordered KDs from 6/30 arrived at the dealership. Will see on Monday . . .
  11. Jakelay

    Volume increments

    Sorry to hijack a thread but wondering if you can change volume increments on the EA controllers Without the workaround? Sr260s are sloooow to ramp up the volume. Looks like you are using the HC250 controller so was curious if that was added to the EA’s? Thanks!
  12. Mine isn’t showing status or operating the locks. I can see/do both from the August app though. When I press to lock On the security screen the lock icon ‘glows’ but doesn’t activate anything.
  13. Just saw a few new things with the new iOS app - looks like it was updated yesterday or today. I have the free August lock driver and it was working fine before the update. Now I’m not getting lock status showing and the locks are not responding to any commands via the app. Since I’m new to this - recommend a reset/reboot of the system? If so, what’s the best practice for doing that? Thanks!
  14. Here's a link to the thread on the Bond support site about the different bridge versions. Again, the frequency spectrum for the newer bridge is wider so maybe that would help? https://forum.bondhome.io/t/bond-v2-platform/466
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