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Jakelay

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Jakelay last won the day on August 21

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  1. I think the app shows when an update is available.
  2. Make sure you update the driver in C4 and the firmware for the lock. I’m assuming you have the wifi gateway? If everything is up to date, the only issues I’ve had have been due to drivers or power outage. Once I lock/ unlock the door, the state updates in C4.
  3. It’s a great system but the quality of your installer will make or break your experience. We had someone that assured me they had experience with programming, lighting, etc. That turned out to not be the case. Once we finished with that debacle, we found @mujtaba.khokhar on here and he has been doing remote programming for us. He has been awesome. Suddenly, everything started working as it should and things were not activating on their own. He ended up having to do a lot of programming corrections but we’ve been up and running pretty well ever since. Whatever you do, make sure you have a good quality installer. The levels that C4 advertises on their website is about volume not quality. If your installer isn’t up to par, Muj or any number of the awesome and helpful folks on these boards can help, are usually cheaper and more qualified and faster. One of the great advantages of C4, you can change your programmer/dealer very easily. Our old Crestron system was locked down to the original installer so we were stuck with him (he was actually really good, just very expensive). You can do most anything with C4 and a knowledgeable programmer but the interfaces on the touch screens/app are locked in. We did customization in our Crestron system, paid a lot for it and frankly, like the C4 app better. It’s intuitive, easy to use and because it’s a bit more standardized, ends up being cheaper. With most other systems, the dealers make their money on the programming so even with Crestron’s new system, they’re always looking for those higher margins and the cost really adds up. I found C4 to be more reasonably priced (not cheap, just less expensive for the same basic functionality). Crestron sells the ability to do anything with their system. While there may be some really rare things that you might be able to do vs C4 but I would be surprised to see how many people ever use those things vs just getting the more expensive system in case they ever want to do them. I haven’t found much that C4 can’t do. Hope that helps a bit. Make sure you have a good installer (did I say that already?)
  4. Thanks Neo. Eggz answered my question. I was just trying to conceptualize in what order the physical auto shutoff valve would sit so it wouldn’t turn off the water to the Venturi pump sump backup. Sounds like the order would be: physical main water shutoff then Venturi pump, then auto shutoff. This way, if your sump pump fails and a water sensor goes off, it won’t turn off the valve before the Venturi pump (water based backup pump) and the backup pump will still work but the auto shutoff valve will work to shut down the other supply to the house if there is, for example, a hot water tank leak or a hose by a washing machine, etc. Nothing is perfect so there are still ways for this whole setup to have issues but the likelihood is really mitigated with all of these systems in place. Thanks again!
  5. Perfect - thanks! Nothing can be 100% but limiting risk tremendously is what it’s all about. Appreciate the info
  6. Probably a dumb question but want to make sure I understand since I’m just starting to look into this option (water powered sump pump backup and auto shutoff). Does the shutoff get installed after the backup connection? I wouldn’t want the system to detect water somewhere and close a valve before the back up pump or it won’t work. Beginning the planning process here so any info would be appreciated.
  7. The only reason I went with iPads is that I had them laying round after upgrading every year or two so why not? Again, I don’t use intercom or security cameras so I would probably rethink a T3/T4 if that were the case if the functionality doesn’t exist on the iPads. Frankly, I never use the iPads. As I said, I always have my phone or iPad with me and it’s easier to just use those - which I REALLY appreciate having. A fixed screen somewhere just wouldn’t get the use my phone or iPad in hand get. That’s a testament to the flexibility of C4, lots of options. Previous Crestron system had 1 VERY expensive touch pad in the kitchen but only used infrequently. I use the OS app a lot with C4. So if there is a central place and a plan for using a screen, then the integration of the C4 screens would be better to have IMO. Additional setups around the house may not need that integration so iPads/fire tablets may be a good option for less $$. I think it just depends. In fairness to the dealers, if you really want integration with everything and rock solid use, I would want them to explain why the T4 is a better option but would also want to know about the flexibility to use other tablets with pros and cons. If a touchscreen is used a lot for info or interaction, there is no substitute for the integration. The options are great to have as well though, but you have to know the limitations. And I already have the TP-Link driver and needed a few power strips for the SR-260s and Neeos to charge so there really was no additional cost and very little effort needed to set up the timer to void battery swell (not even sure I needed to bother with that any longer). The POE setup I am using needed to be wired so I had my installer run the Ethernet cable because it is the middle of a room (table top only option) and I wanted to see if I would actually use the touchscreen in that location before investing in a T3/T4, but the cable is there for whenever I want. The POE adapter was about $125 so figured it was worth the risk. Turns out, I’m glad I didn’t get the screen - for now. Again, may feel differently if we use IA and get cameras set up but the wiring is there for me if/when I’m ready.
  8. To avoid the battery swelling, I set up power on one of my iPads via POE and just have that scheduled to turn off the power for a few hours every night to avoid the battery swell. For a few table top iPads, I set them up with a stand and a Kasa plug, Chowmain’s TP-Link driver and do the same thing - power off through some of the night. I don’t have security cameras or use intercom anywhere bit I find that I carry my daily iPad and phone around the house with me so I don’t even use the iPads right now so I’m glad I didn’t spring for the touch panels. Once I add cameras, I may feel much differently though.
  9. Make sure you’re using the correct account and login. We have multiple Apple devices on family share and we had to use the main, most unused account to get things to work. It’s not a great setup and with things falling off after upgrades we switched to IR for most, if not all, of our ATVs. Or, you could try the Intrinsic driver. I think that works via IP but not through your Apple account ( way more knowledgeable people about that on here than me though).
  10. Glad it worked out for you. HDMI and EDID can be troublesome for sure.
  11. From a less technical, end user standpoint, I’ll share my experience as it might help. We originally had a component video matrix setup with a crestron system. It was bullet proof and we loved being able to watch the same shows if wife was upstairs and I got home late and was eating dinner but we wanted to watch at the same time. Component is infinitely easier on resolution switches, handshakes, etc. and we see delays with resolution changes, etc. and some of those handshakes issues periodically with our new matrix. I’m pretty sure that’s just the nature of HDMI and part of life but we don’t see the issues on our local sources. When we updated to C4 last year, video matrix was a ‘necessity’ for us. It drove the cost and complexity up quite a bit for our install. Honestly, I regret going that route. We went with a matrix that does the 60hz 4:4:4, all the bells and whistles. What I find now is that we almost never watch the same thing at the same time unless we’re in the same room and even though the specs are there, we can see a difference between the local source Apple TV and the matrix Apple TV’s. When we do watch the same things, we could replicate that by simply streaming from the different boxes since most of what we watch can be accessed online these days. We have DirecTV without 4K (almost no useful 4K content being broadcast) and they can be ‘networked’ so you can share the DVR content regardless of location now. So the resolution issue is a non-factor with Tv watching. In my mind, if I were to do this again, I would use local sources ((ATV, Roku, etc) and skip the matrix. But I would probably stay away from using the TV based streaming services as the processors on those are usually slower (unless you’re using a top of the line TV and even then, I still haven’t had the same experience - just my opinion) and unless they are all the same TV, the Ui may be different as someone mentioned above. So real life, I don’t think you’ll miss anything with the 30hz unless you’re in a theater room or video quality is extremely important and then I would suggest local sources in those areas. I would say stick with what you’ve got, go for the local for the streaming boxes, see how it works and if you feel like you’re missing out, upgrade down the line. At least the wiring is there so the switch out could be easy and these are plenty of remote programmers on this site that are REALLY good that can help with programming it for you. Just one end user’s experience but hope that helps a bit. Good luck!
  12. Just a quick update on @mujtaba.khokhar,Muj, since he helped get my system working back in December to fix an unfortunate dealer experience. I just sent him a message to say hello as I haven’t spoken with him for a while - which is a good thing - that means he got my system actually working! Muj is awesome, no other way to put it. He knows what he’s doing, got work done in a fraction of the time of my original dealer and has become a friend. We just did some updates a little while ago but he really dug in at the beginning to fix a LOT of issues we had from our install - including getting on a three way call with one of the equipment vendors to actually learn how to do something new with their equipment. Now he can use that knowledge on other jobs. I couldn’t get my original dealer to even talk to the vendor 🤦‍♂️. Anyway, realized I hadn’t updated since my first message in December so wanted to make sure people know he’s a rockstar!
  13. Something to consider with the TP link outlets - I replaced a manual timer outlet with a regular TPLink outlet and only use the TP link app since it’s easily programmable for sunrise/sunset but my garage is insulated ymmv with colder/warmer climates. I did have some minor problems with the outlet residing in the metal transformer box affecting the wifi signal. I ended up purchasing one of the TP link outdoor 3 outlet plugs so I could house the receiver outside the metal transformer box and that seems to have resolved the wifi reception issue. It’s a bit more expensive but comparably cheap to other options. I also purchased a 3 pack of 6 inch extension cords to make sure I had the clearance to get the receiver outside the metal box. each outlet on this two outlet outdoor Kasa plug is individually configurable. https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Outlet-Outdoor-TP-Link/dp/B07M6RS2LC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=tp+link+outdoor+plug&qid=1628182848&sr=8-3
  14. I did this for most of my iPads - Kasa outlets or power strips with the Chowmain driver and timers. One is in a room with POE on an Ethernet to lightning adapter. Have that POE port on a timer as well. Charge all during the day, no charge from 11p-5a. Have had no battery swelling issues. Also, the eneloops hold most charge for one year+ so for vacation homes, etc, having a few extras charged up can help.
  15. I have the charger model on all of our remotes but previously had Crestron remotes, and quite a few. They burned through batteries every 6 months like clockwork. Eventually ended up buying a bunch of Panasonic Eneloop(sp?) batteries, two chargers and a few plastic battery cases and never looked back. We don’t have a closed cabinet so charging is easy for us with the SR260s now but if you can’t go the charger route, think about the other option above. It’s more expensive than regular batteries initially but definitely pays off in the long run.
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