Andrej2

yes, this explains it! maybe i will find a workaround, perhaps requiring one more click to get to do what i need to do on the watch thank you for clarifying! that said, perhaps all favorites should appear on the watch in the future?

first, my dealer did update the OS on the EA-3 to the latest director version now, 3.3.0. but the missing favorite activity is still missing on the Apple Watch. the activity takes me to a listening menu that controls an audio DAC; it was favorited from the Listening menu. this favorite activity works fine on the iPhone. as a counterexample, a similar activity from the Watching menu takes me to an Apple TV control and works just fine on both the iPhone and Apple Watch.

thanks - that's what i guessed, based on various pages on the C4 user home page. so i already asked my dealer to help. i can't resist whining a little: i really don't like it that C4 does not let me upgrade my own system, regardless of the risks associated with an inexperienced user messing with the system (they already allow some of that anyway). it seems inappropriate not to let customers fiddle with their stuff if they really want to do it.

Well, my Composer HE is indeed 3.3.0 as you say, but the director version reported in the iPhone app, which I installed today, is 3.2.1.593279, as stated above (please see the two snapshots). I cannot get a more recent Composer HE nor iPhone app (and thus presumably Apple Watch app). Now I am thinking that the iPhone app is reporting the version installed on my EA-3 controller, so I should probably check and upgrade that. But I don't know how to do that. Any suggestions? Or something else?

i think the latest version: director version on iPhone app says 3.2.1.593279

I have 7 favorite activities, which work fine on iPhone and C4 remote. All of them but one also appear on Apple Watch. Why does one not appear on Apple Watch?

yes, a reasonable idea, but in my specific situation two considerations argue against it: (i) the two mono blocks are also used in a highly optimized stereo system and i don't feel good about inserting anything i can avoid into the power line (probably a case of audiophile nervosa, admittedly); (ii) possibly more relevantly, the amps are actually in the sleep mode when they are off, still slightly warm, and it would take a while before they warmed up if they started cold each time. but i appreciate your comment!

here's an update and at least a temporary conclusion, for what it is worth. the Composer driver for the trigger (one for shades, eventually) was confirmed to have worked, by measuring the voltage and resistance on EA3 outputs. but EA3 still didn't trigger my amp. my amps are Ayre MR-X Twenty mono blocks (they drive subwoofers in my integrated stereo and HT system). Per the manual, one of these amps can be triggered with a voltage of 5 - 12 V, drawing at most 5 mA (it can also be toggled by voltage pulses shorter than 250 ms, but I have not tried that, as it does not allow a convenient absolute control of on/off states); once an amp is triggered, a direct connection between the amps triggers the second amp. fortunately, i already had a working trigger setup previously, relying on a Global Cache relay (https://app.box.com/s/zuxaulm9vybmoswp69pyuf91dx577lkg), controlled by Global Cache iTach Flex Ethernet interface via a Simple Control app on my iPhone. The relay triggers the amp by toggling a 12 V signal from a small wall wart power adapter. the solution to my problem was that my dealer installed a C4 driver for the Global Cache ethernet interface. while i can control my amps with C4 now, it is still unfortunate that I could not replace the 2 global cache devices, a power adapter, and a bunch of cables with a single cable from EA3 to the amps. i don't know why EA3 didn't work, I think it should. My dealer hypothesized this: "The EA3 relay leaks voltage. It looks like the MXRs are extremely sensitive to voltage on the input. Once a state is initialized (on or off), switching the relay does not completely "cut" the voltage. I can't measure that with your meter, but I can with mine." Maybe I'd have more luck with using the relay in the C4 IR transmitter?

I appreciate your response very much - not sure I would know these things without it!

you are correct. i screwed up. 12 V is what turns it on (as long as it applies for more than 250 msec), and 0 V turns it off. it draws less than 5 mA at 12 V. i am testing the other suggestions next ...

I have an amp that can be turned on by dropping a 12 V trigger voltage to 0 V. I'd like to use a relay in EA3 to do so. I wired it per the EA3 manual for a normally closed device (first attachment). The starting voltage between NC and +12 terminals is indeed 12 V. But when I try to control this voltage using the Composer amp remote (second attachment), nothing happens (that is, the voltage does not drop to 0 V, but stays at 12 V); the third attachment shows the driver for the amp, installed by my dealer. There is a red cross at the second button, seemingly indicating an issue. Pressing the first and second buttons produces a click sound from the EA3, the third one produces no sound. I am measuring the voltage using a simple voltage meter, without the amp connected. As an aside, wiring the EA3 terminal as suggested for a normally opened device, say a Fireplace (fourth attachment), does not work either. What am I doing wrong? Should I connect the amp? Is the relay in my EA-3 broken? Am I using the correct driver (maybe I should use a driver for a Control4 amp trigger - which one is that)? Should I wire the EA3 terminal differently? I am assuming no external power is required for this very low-current trigger.

actually, even for play and pause buttons on the SR-260 remote the workaround does not really work, because these buttons are toggles. so we really do depend on Control4 knowing the state of AppleTV properly to trigger the light scenes properly. is this something an AppleTV driver is taking care of? Am I using the correct driver (see above)? Is there another driver to try? How would I get it / select it?

yes, this is how I already defined some of the optional buttons on my SR-260 remote, so i am sure this will work as you proposed. but it is probably suboptimal because it cannot work for the SELECT SR-260 remote button. also, this workaround does not address the AppleTV control via an iPad / iPhone interface app. so it would still be nice if AppleTV trigger events actually triggered the specified action scripts, as they are intended to do but do not (the Blu-Ray player event triggers do work fine this way, so hopefully I am not misunderstanding anything major here).

I am not sure how exactly to find the version of the AppleTV driver, but hovering over the AppleTV device shows the attached information. Asking for Information upon right click on AppleTV device displays no information. The driver was installed by my dealer a few days ago. As an aside, I just update my Composer to the latest version today, as it seemingly became available overnight. None of the three ways of play / pause / stop "buttons" trigger the light scenes: (i) the AppleTV remote on an iPad; (ii) the play/pause/stop buttons on the SR-260 remote, nor (iii) the SELECT button on the SR-260 remote. I was hoping that Control4 knows the state of the AppleTV no matter what the method that puts it into that state, and would trigger the light scenes accordingly. It seems to work that way nicely for the Blu-Ray player (a Sony device controlled over ethernet; see second attachment). Maybe I should install a different AppleTV driver?

I am able to automatically select light scenes upon playing, pausing, and stopping a Blu-Ray player, but this does not work for AppleTV, using exactly the same approach. The problem is that AppleTV events (stop, pause, play) just don’t trigger the lightning scene scripts programmed on the Programming page. I attach a snapshot of the corresponding Programming view. Any idea what is going on and how to get around it? I am using the latest version of Composer and AppleTV 4K. My dealer installed the system only a few days ago.