Reednatron

I've only used the C4 official driver - not had an issue at all in recent years. MY guess is that if it's not turning on, there's an MAC mismatch, a setting on the TV that is preventing wake on lan or a setting in you network preventing the WoL broadcast.
And yes, both wired and wireless.

What driver are you using?  I have Cx and Bx models and they all work perfectly using the Annex4 driver.

I recall when I got my first IP controlled LG (5 years ago) that I was advised to get the Annex4 driver as it was much more reliable than the native driver for IP control (particularly on / off functionality).  I have no idea if that is (still) true but I’ve had no regrets with the Annex4 driver and it has been rock solid. 

Another vote for the Annex 4 driver. I have 4 LG OLED’s with this driver and it’s absolutely bulletproof. The only issue is after a software update you have to manually turn the tv on the first time. 
 
The mini drivers for Netflix etc work great too. 

I think it was $99. I’m my opinion it’s worth every penny. 

Another Annex4 driver user for several years.  I have 4 different model LG's and all have worked perfectly for several years - 1 is an OLED.

I'm probably in the minority here, but actually prefer the Neeo now that I've upgraded my WiFi.
The ability to adjust lighting without going 3 menus deep wins over backlit buttons

Just for clarification, it's not a drawback of the Control4 Roku TV driver, it's a drawback of the Roku API, which Control4 has no control over.
If the API had discrete volume available, the driver would as well.
Maybe you were using a different term for driver, but in Control4-land, that means the driver running in Director.
RyanE

And that volume issue is only applicable if you use the TV as the audio endpoint.  In my house I tend to use other things, like C4 matrix amps. But that requires using the TV's audio output if you are using the TV's internal Roku apps for stuff like Netflix.

TCL TVs are very solid.  I've never had any issues with updates and I've always been impressed with them. 
When you pair with a sonos sound bar you get discrete volume as well. 

And you can spend more on the soundbar then the TV. Lol. 

Yeah - I have a number of them in 'low-traffic' areas -- a 5 series on the patio, a small one in the bathroom, a 6 series in my office, etc.  I have been happy with all of them to be honest.  I wouldn't use the super cheap 3 series, etc, but the 5+ series have all been very solid -- and I don't have to install an extra Roku!

I mainly purchase 6 series for all my main watching areas.  I've bought some cheaper 4 series and they work exactly the same and integration is identical. 

I have four Roku TVs in my house and the driver is rock solid.  I used to use a third party driver for my Roku TVs, but then moved to the "free" one from Control4.  My only complaint is that the input switching is a bit slow - they seem to have built in a several second delay for some reason.
I have had the odd network issue but that was my own fault for not creating DHCP reservations.  And the Roku network test seems to not like being behind a PiHole, but those have nothing to do with the driver.

Yes there is a free Roku TV driver from control4, works well in my experience. 

The driver is solid, can't comment on the TV itself being solid. Not saying it isn't - but we have had a handful of cheap RokuTVs with issues staying connected to the network.

I just have a different point of view I guess. 
This isn't a mobile phone that travels with me away from home, its a device that stays in my room and controls the C4 system in my house.
The charger is literally in the same room as the remote.
It feels 1000% better in hand than the playskool 260, and has a nice screen for album art/GUI.
In my usage, its way more reliable than the Neeo it replaced, and battery life is comparable.
C4 is still making the 260, right? If you need 74 days of battery life and simply cannot stand to put the remote on charge, use the 260 and look at yellow text.
$500 is too much for what it is, but the Core controllers are expensive as well. Inflation I suppose.
 
Also: I've used about every Harmony remote that exists and prefer the feel and utility of the Halo.
 

Got my Halo and Core1 setup today. The Halo sat on the charging base about 16 hours before I had time to set it up with the new project. Obviously I haven't had it long enough to comment on battery life. Will know more soon on that as the charging base is not adjacent to our normal chairs for watching TV -- it will get left off the charger soon enough. I don't have uAPSD as an option on my WiFi either.
New remote coupled with an entirely new project, so I would assume that impacted the Halo. The project was still being tweaked after the Halo was added. A few hours later and it seems to be responsive and stable.
The screen is nicer than I expected. Not being a touch screen, I was skeptical but it was very easy to read. We never accessed Dish Hopper DVR media directly before because the SR-260 was too hard to read. Now we will use that feature. I do think this media list UI could be better. Since it is not touch screen, I think it could be a lot denser and there needs to be some sort of animation or feedback when scrolling down the list. The only way to see that you have changed episodes is to read the recording date. 
Maybe they are trying to use the same display of the media as will be needed for a the Halo Touch. I'd rather see more with less dead space. I get it for the Touch.
Siri works as advertised. Had to turn Siri off and back on in the AppleTV to make it work. After that, no issues at all. I'll be happy to put that tiny Siri Remote in the drawer.
Very hopeful. I see a lot of potential.
(Display, iOS vs Halo)

I just have a different point of view I guess. 
This isn't a mobile phone that travels with me away from home, its a device that stays in my room and controls the C4 system in my house.
The charger is literally in the same room as the remote.
It feels 1000% better in hand than the playskool 260, and has a nice screen for album art/GUI.
In my usage, its way more reliable than the Neeo it replaced, and battery life is comparable.
C4 is still making the 260, right? If you need 74 days of battery life and simply cannot stand to put the remote on charge, use the 260 and look at yellow text.
$500 is too much for what it is, but the Core controllers are expensive as well. Inflation I suppose.
 
Also: I've used about every Harmony remote that exists and prefer the feel and utility of the Halo.
 

I just have a different point of view I guess. 
This isn't a mobile phone that travels with me away from home, its a device that stays in my room and controls the C4 system in my house.
The charger is literally in the same room as the remote.
It feels 1000% better in hand than the playskool 260, and has a nice screen for album art/GUI.
In my usage, its way more reliable than the Neeo it replaced, and battery life is comparable.
C4 is still making the 260, right? If you need 74 days of battery life and simply cannot stand to put the remote on charge, use the 260 and look at yellow text.
$500 is too much for what it is, but the Core controllers are expensive as well. Inflation I suppose.
 
Also: I've used about every Harmony remote that exists and prefer the feel and utility of the Halo.
 

Now mine only goes down about 15% if not used and not in charger overnight.  So about 12 hours. So not sure what to say. 

I want it all, I want it now, I want it for free. And if I didn't do my homework it's not my fault.

My vote would be to put it on the charging cradle where it belongs when not using it and stop worrying too much about battery life.

The TV icon above the directional pad button pulls up the On Screen. Or it would if my core controller could maintain a HDMI handshake.

Well, we can (sort of?) expect Apple to not break it on purpose.