Andrew H

You'll probably have to get the serial commands from the manufacturer. Without those, you won't be able to do much. You'll also need access to Composer to upload and test your driver. As far as making the driver once you have those, get familiar with the Control4 driver SDK (https://github.com/snap-one/docs-driverworks). They also have some sample drivers in that repo to help you get going. Control4 has a tool for writing and building drivers which can be useful for learning the basics, but is not a great tool for actual development. @Rexabyte has a tool for Visual Studio Code that might help you get up and going, but a Control4 C4Z driver is just a zip file with a different file extension (see https://snap-one.github.io/docs-driverworks-fundamentals/#understanding-c4z-drivers). I'd recommend getting familiar with the sample drivers and the sdk linked above to get a feel for how Control4 communicates to its drivers and how the drivers communicate with other devices. Once you get familiar with those, feel free to message me with more specific questions or make a post in the "Driver Dev" section of this forum.

@Evan Marty - PM for OvrC I don't remember Connect being an option. I remember seeing an option for 4Sight, but I didn't previously have 4Sight, so I didn't check that box. Would not having checked that box have signed me up for Connect by default? The way I read it was more like choosing an add-on and less like opting out of the new system. My accounts were linked more than a day before this handoff.

I am a Control4 dealer. It is entirely possible that I did something wrong in registration. PM Sent. Thanks!

I did open a ticket with C4 support yesterday but haven't heard anything yet. I was able to verify just now on a legacy-registered system that I am able to connect, so I'll try tonight to see if switching registration methods works to re-allow access. It's looking like Matt is right and that Connect is required for new systems registered with OVRC immediately.

So Connect isn't required until April only if you're using the old method of registration? I changed the registration on my home project from the old method to OVRC last Friday and logged into it on the same phone just fine after the switch, but now I can only connect to systems registered with the old method without purchasing Connect.

That is supposed to be the case. Unfortunately, there seems to be a bug in the app that will not let me log in without purchasing Connect, so I'm not sure why it isn't fitting here. See these screenshots for the page that comes up when I try to log into a new system. The only way I've found to escape this page when it comes up is to uninstall the C4 app.

I set up a test controller (EA1 on 3.4.1.701303-res) a week or so ago and registered it via OVCR. Before this morning, I had not logged into it from my phone. Now, when trying to log in (App Version: 323.51.2.14, Phone: Pixel 8), I get forced to the purchase page for Connect. At the time, I was enrolled in the Android beta program for the Control4 for OS3 app, so I unenrolled myself, uninstalled the app, restarted my phone and logged back in. This process, unfortunately, changed nothing aside from removing my home system (EA1 on 3.4.1.701303-res which had been working fine before uninstalling the app) from the Control4 app. Now both want me to purchase Connect, and the only way to escape the purchase page is to uninstall the app. I was under the impression that Connect was not required until April, but it seems it's required now.

What would be your use case for outdoor lighting? As long as the lights won't be directly exposed to the elements, a lot of 'indoor' fixtures and strip can be used outside as well. Check out the photo gallery on our website to see some examples of this. We have also worked with landscape lighting before, which is directly exposed to the elements. This can be a bit more challenging to maintain but certainly can be done. As for the outdoor decoders, you would be better off finding an indoor/covered place for the decoders to live, if you can. The decoder does not have to be right next to the fixture. As long as the gateway and decoder will stay dry and not overly hot, you can use an 'indoor' decoder to drive outdoor fixtures.

Almost certainly not the case. Especially if, as you said, the same issue is present on other hardware. This is very likely a Tidal issue/change as mentioned above. Even Apple limits how far you can upgrade your devices. If you're running any hardware on EOL software you should not be expecting to get the latest features/upgrades.

A lot of smart bulbs do not work well with dimmer switches since the expectation is that the logic in the bulb will control brightness/color/temperature. A quick Google doesn't turn up anything suggesting that HALO is compatible with Control4, but I will admit that I don't know that for sure. I haven't personally used the Philips Hue with Control4, but you should be able to do what you suggested: use a dimmer or a switch (not wired to the bulb - feed the bulb constant power) to trigger a C4/Philips Scene. If you're open to a third option Mirus Lighting does everything that you're looking for. Feel free to shoot me a private message or call/text our office to talk with someone if interested.

There are a couple of ways to do this depending upon what exactly your drivers will be doing. You could make a custom binding that would appear under the connections tab using a special class type. This would allow you to connect your devices and to treat this connection as a communication bus using SendToProxy. Another way to approach it would be to use GetDevicesByC4iName from one driver to obtain a list of drivers in the project that are the type with which you wish to communicate. You could then use SendToDevice to send a command to a given device by device id. Either way, it won't be as easy as pulling properties from the same driver. You'll have to write functions to pass info between drivers depending on what you want to communicate.

Do you have commands in your driver which can switch the coax outputs separately from the HDMI outputs? If the two are not switching together automatically, this means that your HDMI matrix has the ability to matrix audio and video separately, and you'll need to tell Control4 that you want them to switch together. I'm not familiar with this HDMI matrix, but some have the option to lock a given audio and video output together. If this is an option in your matrix and you don't want to use separate matrixing, it may be a quicker way to solve your issue.

Please enlighten me. I'm curious what I'm supposed to have assumed.

I haven't. Saying that you should contact C4 directly and that this is "not the right place to ask" is not the same as saying that you'll get a better answer from Control4. I don't disagree that you could get a better answer directly from Control4, but unless OP is trying to get at a private API -- hence my comment about discretion -- then the "Driver Dev" section of a Control4 forum is exactly the right place to ask questions regarding developing a Control4 driver.

Why wouldn't this be the right place to ask? Control4 has a public API that anyone can access. As long as the folks with access have the discretion to not reveal private information, the only thing public conversation does is benefit others with the same or similar questions. No API call that I'm aware of, but you might be able to make it happen manually depending on what you are wanting to do. Are you wanting to restart the same driver making the restart call? Another driver that you wrote? Any random driver?